Anyone got opinions on power cables that are guage size worthy?

Gonna go see the shop today, made up my mind to trade in my 4 AQ hurricanes power cables and rocket 88s… towards a BHK250… should be straight forward. Ill use my cardas cross link speaker wire and some M-Audio power cables 10awg…

Anyone got opinions on power cables that are guage size worthy, Im Open minded before I purchase new ones, I’ve always thought of big guage to ease the equipments task of not fighting a bottle neck. I know the wall circuit is important aswell an receptacle. Ive never had or experienced a audible difference in power cables as i did it more for equipment.

Any advice would be great thanks :blush:

Budget is key, and then it is likely you will be overwhelmed with recommended cables. Best to set-up your “new” components and adjust to what they provide, and then chase wire. Just my 2 cents. FWIW my primary system is a complete set of Audience Front Row cables, power, speaker and inter connect. They work well in my system.

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I 2nd the cables that @weedeewop mentioned.

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Restraint prevailed and I withheld the G - PZ 3.10 recommendation.

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Budget is important otherwise you are going to get recommendations for power cables costing multiples of the 250’s cost. Also direct sale vendors will be your best value.

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You might look into BAV power cords (sold at the BlueJeans/Iconoclast website). I am using the 10awg (12awg also available) cords on BHK 250 and BHK600s. They were $216 for 4 feet (could be higher now, haven’t checked). They replaced VH Audio AirSine’s (about $800, no longer available) and I did not hear much difference, although some other cables were only partly broken in at the time. The AirSine’s were moved to some front end components. I also tried Oyaide Tunami V2’s (about $600) but felt they did better on source components. Overall I feel the BAV’s are close enough to the more expensive cords that I feel no need to experiment with higher priced cords.

I am also using the BAV 20amp version for P20’s.

I’m running BAV 10 and 12 gauge on my transport and Amp/Dac. Huge improvement over the courtesy PSA cords—wider, taller sound stage, more precise highs and mids, and noticeable lows (well, as much as a Maggie LRS can !). Overall, much more authoritative sound. I’ll be adding them to my 2 M700 power amps soon.

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Don’t evaluate power cable–or any hifi cable on external dimensions. The design and materials are what counts.
Consider Zu Audio Event power cables for example. Not fire hose size but excellent materials, shielding, attention paid to the ground leg, etc. And priced less than $1K. Short lengths half that.

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You don’t need shields on a power cord UNLESS you have a VFD, variable frequency drive, type environment that EMITS EGRESS RF, and would fail the FCC emissions requirements. Some power cords on PC monitors as an example use special alloy RF ferrite chokes to also block emitted RF. Not any alloy choke will work for the RF being blocked, every device is different. If the AC line molded-in chokes are necessary to pass FCC limits, the cords are CAPTIVE to the device. DO NOT remove the cord as it is part of the “solution" for emissions. An IEC socket on a device with a UL label indicated the device under test passed to tests with a “worst case" standard power cord. Thus, it again doesn’t need shielding. The internal design is high quality enough to blocK RF egress.

Few if any power cords shield RF INGRESS as the power supply is designed to filter incoming RF to ground. Also, if the shield is SPG, single point grounded, it is NOT a shield at all but a resonator that induces noise INTO the cord as well as radiating emissions OUT of the cord. UL will never pass a SPG “shielded” power cord. Simply put, BOTH ENDS have to be grounded to be a shield. That is not a debate, it is a fact.

If you lift the ground, and noise is reduced you have a high ground differential and the problem is worse than the improper lifter ground leaves you with. You have TWO problms concurrently; a resonance transfer function and a ground differential, both. Lifting the ground removed one of the two problems, but still a problem remains, fix the grounds high ground reference differential. Now you can use a REAL shield if you feel the need as it acts like one now.

For AWG requirements, it is based on the current in the cord to mitigate voltage drop (current times the cords DC resistance end to end). For a turntable, you don‘t need a 10 AWG cord! An amplifer, yes. Better materials are selected to also remove RF passively as well as provide a durable cord.

One of the main issues is keeping the DC path a low measured value which keeps “hum" and ground loop noise low. The AWG requirement is defined by the current draw. More current is potentially more hum (voltage or the hum we hear = current times DCR). Since we are adding wire between point A and B, we ALWAYS will have a potential difference and current flow. This differential between ground points is a reality, there is no “perfect" ground. Hum is there, but we keep it below audible levels. All our equipment sees the DCR path from the green GROUND reference. Low impedance high current draw device sources are more a problem than high impedance voltage transfer function devices.

Don’t go overboard on big AWG cords where you have low current draw devices, and you don’t need a shield for audio devices that have “open" IEC sockets. They pass emissions to a high standard already. A shielded cord with a proper ground isn’t going to help, but it will cost more and won’t improve things.

Best, Galen

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Wow that’s alot to take in lol, alittle Chinese but I graspe the just of it. Very informative.

Explains the audioquest power vs source options with in there lines. There for placing high current cords on amps and there source versions on pre amps/CD players…

The source is 12 amp rated vs the 15 amp high currents.

The part where you mention no shield exposed wire i don’t fully follow ill have to re read cuz it sounds like getting electrocuted :sweat_smile::rofl:

To update i won’t be grabbing BHK250, as I’ve put alot of money out on the hobby this year and I’ve lost money learning experimenting trying to find what im looking for.

Ill be ordering the M1200s with in my budget. Ill get to taste tube input for the first time. That being said ill be keeping my hurricane power cables. I checked out and compared to a couple brands and makes sense not to down grade as theyre payed for n done.

I looked at everyone’s respected choice companies.. you all have great cables, ill be looking into them going forward as ill be interested in speaker cables next year.

Thanks for everyone’s help :blush:

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