Hi John, we are actively working to add an FAQ page albeit progress has been slow.
This is roughly a 2” radius hanging from the back of my D&D 8c. 4” from the wall to the back of the unit would work
That pic shows you Vern’s sweat heart truly loves him; allowing him to drill an inch diameter hole in her hardwood floor… got to give Vern props for getting that done… NFW Celeste (my wife) would ever let that happen… that would be a definite fist fight and she has big shoulders and a great left hook…
It took a couple of promises but nothing earth shattering or hard to keep. After 42 years of marriage she hasn’t kicked me to the curb yet. Maybe close a few of times.
Vern - You are an inspiration and tell your wife she rocks!
She said thanks. I have had a lot of expensive hobbies over the years but she gets to enjoy this one too and that certainly doesn’t hurt anything.
Wow, go to work for a day and look at all of the responses that pop up… thank you all! Galen, thanks for the pics, as they are particularly helpful.
Hadn’t heard of PTFE ‘cold flowing’… very interesting! Does your comment that the XLRs can be torqued 180 degrees presuppose a certain length of cable?
I’ve heard others comment that RCAs can sound better than XLRs in some systems, especially if EMI/RFI are minimal. My system is fully differential from DAC to amps, however, so it seems best to stick with XLRs. (Unfortunately, my system is also active, so the path to the mains alone requires 4 pairs of XLRs, with my subwoofer swarm requiring still more.) Sonics aside, I confess that I like the mechanical properties of the XLR connector as well, second only to SpeakOn/PowerCon connectors.
There does seem to be some potentially conflicting info, however…
Cable made from a length cut loses ZERO length in termination, none.
Once prepped and terminated the exact measure of the exposed jacket will be slightly less than the ordered length
I have had experience with two pairs of PCOCC 4x4 Series 2 XLRs which were specified as 60 inches long. In both cases, the sheathed cable portion exposed between the connectors were only 56 inches long.
Galen, I suspect that your statement reflects the fact that no wire is technically lost in the termination process, but since 2ish" inches of cable is hidden inside the XLR connector housing and strain relief, it may appear so to users who specified ordered lengths based on exposed cable between the connectors. (Since almost no one has gear sitting back-to-back, the length of the connector doesn’t contribute to the ability of a cable to bridge the distance between chassis connectors that are almost always located side-to-side or top-to-bottom relative to each other. Minimum bend radius is another source of ‘loss’ to this bridging capability, and a less intuitive one.) There is no criticism here, merely an attempt to clarify what one actually receives when they order via the web interface in the stock units of feet. In my main system that might mean the difference between ordering 3 vs 4 ft, for example. Though, of course, there is a cost implication to that as well that may sway things for folks. Certainly one can be absolutely clear by emailing Bob directly and specifying the ‘exposed’ cable length between connectors, as he has generously offered. It’s just more logistical overhead, is all. (I get enough overhead at work, thank you! )
Thanks for the info thus far - very help, and much appreciated!
Just an update FWIW:
I’ve been auditioning ICONO speaker cables - TPC/OFE/SPTPC for 29 of the 30 days allowed and sent back the TPC and OFE which both greatly surpassed my existing Cardas reference.
I, and my wife, both prefer the SPTPC in our system and room and etc. etc.
The cost is sacrificial but once we’ve heard and lived with it there was no going back. My interest was piqued from this forum and I thank you all.
Received a set of TPC speaker cables today from BJC after lurking here for a while. I run a system comprised of Parasound JC2 BP preamp and JC5 amp, Focal Sopra 2, Mytek Brooklyn DAC+.
My preexisting speaker cable was by far the oldest component in my system - a 10’ pair of Kimber Monocle XL (early release, all Teflon dielectric version) purchased when I worked for a KK dealer in the late 90’s. I had always resisted the temptation to change them out because I felt they were as good as I needed.
So far, I’m impressed with the Iconoclast TPC speaker wire. They definitely bring something different to the table. Coherent is a term used a lot in this thread and I would say that’s accurate. I look forward to continued listening in the days to come.
I might be interested in auditioning the SPTPC version and/or the 4x4 XLRs (in lieu of my Kimber Selects). We will see.
Get some UV light protection in that window or…things won’t be the same later on. UV will tear into your equipmet. Trust me, I know from my mistakes. Even a semi transparent drape helps a lot. Most speakers, even with DSP work better out from the walls. Yes, DSP helps but it should be working as little as possible.
The cable will measure the spec lenth from the XLR or RCA pin block to pin block. The ASSEMBLY is the spec length, not the “exposed” cable. If we CUT the assemby length then yes, we would need to ADD to the cut length to be at the spec length. There is ineed the spec length of cable in every assembly done right. We have worked with Kurt to keep the assembly process consistent. I have a lengthy assembly process sheet for termination of all cables that we clarify as we go. We aim for consistency.
The speaker cable bends ACROSS the MAJOR axis, not the minor axis due to the weave pattern. The bend radius is 12" in a relaxed bend and 10" in a tensioned bend (some tennsion to hold the bend).
The XLR torque is per a spec length cable, or 5 feet. The spec XLR length, 5 feet, can be connected no matter the pin orientation on your equipment. This is why it is the recommended spec length! Shorter lengths don’t have the LENGTH to absorb the torque and distribute it along the cable length. To mitigate that, PIN orientation is needed to minimize the torque orientation force.
Remember everyone, the ICONOCLAST is a pure PERFORMANCE product. There will be concessions to be in the race. The BAV mitigate some performance for everyday workability. The nice aspect is how little loss in performance is there compared to the like conductor design ICONOCLAST. Getting the cable off the track and onto the roads we drive everyday is still a high performance product.
The BAV design aspects are clearly covered in the DESIGN BRIEF paper. The design and materials was carefully crafted to bring the most workabiity with the least loss in primary electrical performance.
As far as bad beef hitting a nerve, no, I’m not like that, I just get things back to the facts and make them as clear as can be. Being willing to work off of the facts, and continuing to make them accurate, keeps my temper in check. My point is no like SIZED BAV XLR eclipses the performance and flexibility, both. The AWG allows a very long reach cable with exceptional electricals for those lengths.
Thanks for the advice and concern. Unfortunately the windows and window dressings are not a negotiable item. The good news is that they are north facing.
Also the D&D 8c are very good at behaving when placed close to the front or side wall. It was one of the reasons for the purchase. This particular system pushes a lot of boundaries and is working out very nicely while doing so.
Recently acquired OCC’s in 3 and 5 foot lengths. There seems to be
some mild torque on the 3 footers when connected. Am I ok?
Long time Nordost user here (Red Dawn mostly) and I just bought a pair of Tannoys. I’m hearing that VDH cables are recommended as these speakers are internally wired with it, however they’re hard to come by and there isn’t much science communicated about them. Tannoys come with a 5th binding post for an extra ground (which VDH conveniently has) but up until recently I was going to throw some Red Dawns on and call it a done deal.
Iconoclast TPC looks to be in the same price range as Red Dawn, albeit totally different design, and also far more available and supported than Van Den Hul. Does anyone here have experience with Iconoclast in a Tannoy/tube system? I don’t know that biwiring and using the extra binding post will yield that much gain relative to a well made, well engineered cable. I also use LC-1s throughout my system and think keeping it within the brand isn’t necessarily a bad idea. Any help is greatly appreciated.
As long as you don’t twist them more than 180 degrees, you’re fine at 3 feet. It is easiest to plug the MALE end in first, and then use the female thumb button to determine the least torque to align the connector.
Bi-wire with any speaker cable (keep them the same is best) as it separates the lower current demand between the tweeter / mid units from the higher current in the woofers. But, 80% or better is still the quality of the lead itself, you are right. Bi-wire is real, but it is $$$ to do for sure. There is no reason to not trust it, it works. Vandersteen, B&W and MANY other speaker manufacturers supply bi-wire / bi-amp terminals. Is it the best place to spend money once you have a quality set of leads? Likely not if you need a better phono or DAC of higher quality.
The Tannoy get good marks for sound quality. You should easily hear and enjoy the changes cable makes.
I just messaged Bob to get another set to bi-wire my ATC - had a gain this week burning a hole in my pocket too
Email sent, I love it when I have a few bucks to spend…not very often it seems!
Thank you so much for the advice and feedback. Pardon my ignorance but how are others biwiring Iconoclast if the amp end only has two terminals per channel? My understanding is that star quad is typically used for this and my research shows that it’s primarily 4S11, Cardas, and very few others that have a “traditional” biwire capable speaker cable.