Which is perfectly fine.Everyone has different auditory skills.
Sure this has been asked and answered, but, if the ONLY use for the outlet is to power a PSA DS PowerPlant and the power is completely regenerated, would there be any point in upgrading an outlet that feeds other outlets?
I just asked a question that may have been answered here – I have a P20 so you are reporting you can hear the difference to the outlet that feeds your p10?
Also, not to do down the rabbit hole on this one, but I spent way too much time looking into outlets a couple years ago and came across a lengthly discussion speculating that the Maestro outlets are just Cooper (not Eaton) commercial outlets that are crio-treated and contact enhanced.
I remember that thread. With respect to the experiment I described here above, the Hubbell 5632, the Furutech GTX-D NCF R, and the Oyaide R1 were the other three outlets I built into my 4 gang test box. The Maestro, in my system, was superior to the other three. I could have afforded either of the more expensive ones, as I only needed two, but they didn’t work as well in my system. Everyone else’s MMV.
I don’t own a Power Plant so I can’t answer your question… But the Maestro in my system works like a charm.
Now y’all have me second guessing my small stash of PSA outlets that should go in this spring.
I wouldn’t worry about it if you’ve tried and liked the PSA outlets, Chad. If not and you wanted to just test the waters with a different outlet, I can recommend the Maestro.
I picked up the Maestro for the HT and the listening room. Had to! Too much FOMO!
You could ask the same question about the power cable between the wall and the Regenerator and my answer to that is I can definitely hear the upgrade is sound quality when I upgrade that cable. (Sadly)
Yes. . . these regenerators are not perfect machines and anything that improves the incoming noise level improves the sound coming out of the regenerator. Or anything that alters the incoming power influences the regenerator and the resulting playback sound–often in very subtle ways, sometimes not an improvement.
Fair point - I have a custom Furutech powercord to my P20.
Most amps, preamps, DACs, etc. have RCA and XLR connectors that are soldered directly to the circuit board. Simply back out the screws and nuts that hold the connectors tight to the chassis and just tighten to the point you don’t see the connector move allowing it to ‘float’ without tension.
In other words, as you back out the mounting screws you’ll see the connector ease into its natural place…don’t tighten beyond this point. Of course we want the connector supported so the cable isn’t putting tension on the circuit board. Ideally, relieve any tension the cables place on the device as well by supporting it otherwise, not hanging on the connector.
The goal is to remove the tension on the printed circuit boards and thus not change the natural resonant frequency of the board.
It’s quick, easy and free. Listen for yourself.
For no money and just my time, I elevated the sound of system to a whole new level by merely rearranging the furniture, the acoustic treatments, and adjusting my listening position and speaker placement.
Over the last three of four months I had upgraded my speakers and transport and had thought both were fully broken-in, I was mistaken. Over the last few days things weren’t sounding quite right to me and I couldn’t figure out why. Highs seemed a little rolled off and bass lost some of it’s presents and impact. For the longest time I had struggled with too much bass, and now the opposite is true. Then it dawned on me this evening that perhaps the speakers or transport were still breaking-in, and are now closer to being settled in, so time to start from scratch with setup. After hours of fine tunning, the frequency response from top to bottom is more accurate, and the speakers have completely disappeared and I’m left with a glorious soundstage that seems to exceed the boundaries of the room.
I’m actually a little surprised how much the sound transformed from what I had previously thought was a dialed in system.
10mm acrylic sheet, cut to size and holes drilled for spikes. Protects the floor, much easier than messing about with spike shoes, easy to move speakers and cost $50 for the pair.
But this (as such acrylic sheet is hardly damping speaker vibrations at all) is just an optical tweak I’d say, as you’re caring for resonances between (and within) the sheet and the floor, bouncing between the spikes and back to the speaker. Quite the opposite of what’s usually intended with a resonance eliminating sink base under spikes.
But I know it’s not so easy to keep this living room friendly, as everything meaningful is quite thicker. If it’s necessary to keep the speaker bottom floating above the floor for optical reasons, I’d replace the spikes with a cylindrical form of the diameter of a Herbie’s fat dot or giant fat glider and put those dots under the cylindrical piece. Or at least use his spike decoupling gliders.
The oak is polished ultra-smooth. It was 200+ years old when we bought it in France, 24 years ago, we got it cut to 25mm thickness and it took at least 10 years to stop shrinking. My builder spent a week filling, polishing and finishing it. Over time all clear floor finishes react to ultra-violet light and you get patches from speaker feet. This oak is not so bad, the speakers used to be on a walnut floor and that was terrible for patches. I have 100kg of 20mm granite in the garden, but it would look dead ugly. I appreciate people use granite because it is heavy and non-resonant. We laid a deck outside last year from solid granite, 40 sqm of it, and boy is it heavy. Acrylic had very low resonance. Acetal would be better, but you can’t get it in clear.
I thought about gliders, I bought a packet and use them under my stereo cabinet, unseen, but they are ugly. They are a lot cheaper than Herbie, £9 ($11) for 16 of them.
As long as you don’t say you did it to save the difference of a 16$ Herbie’s glider (or similar) made of resonance damping material to an 80Ct Amazon glider for your several dozen k$ speaker and your probably multi k$ furniture