# Changing resisters in loudspeakers **URL:** \ **Category:** Loudspeakers\ **Created:** [July 9, 2024, 10:43pm UTC](https://forum.psaudio.com/t/changing-resisters-in-loudspeakers/38093 "2024-07-09T22:43:51Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 12
**Author:** ![rajugsw](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forum.psaudio.com/rajugsw/32/16086_2.png) [@rajugsw](https://forum.psaudio.com/u/rajugsw)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2024, 6:11pm UTC](https://forum.psaudio.com/t/changing-resisters-in-loudspeakers/38093/12 "2024-07-10T18:11:56Z")
Thanks Chris. I’ve blown 2 pairs of Tweeter’s in my Cornwall IV’s and finally decided to add a cheap Automotive 2A fuse in series with the hot terminal of the Tweeter. I’m assuming these Caddock resistors are in series at the output of the high pass filter of the crossover. I’m not thrilled about passing an audio signal through a fuse but at this time, I’m not hearing any ill effects. I’ll buy a set of the Caddocks and try them out. I will say though if I could afford it, I’d have waited on bought a pair of your FR10’s. I hear the FR20’s at Behr’s place powered by a pair of Ralph’s GaN FET Atmasphere Amps (I’m both a Tubes - Black Ice Audio & GaN FET - Orchard Audio) Fanboy. I had a the M700’s and M350 and the Orchard Audio Amps stuff just sounded better For your amusement (feel free to laugh) > [@System Photos!](https://forum.psaudio.com/t/system-photos/8910/8725): > > Help ! My Cornwall’s puked out it’s Crossovers joy I finally took the time to separate out the Crossover’s in my CW IV’s. Last year with two jobs on the go, Florida Audio Expo (FLAX) plus other stuff going on, there wasn’t enough time quite honestly. I just swapped put the parts and tacked everything together on the original Xover PCB. My intent was to not touch the original PCB and break everything out externally and Biamp the Tweeter & Midrange with the Black Ice Audio F100’s and run just t… . --- _[View the full topic](https://forum.psaudio.com/t/changing-resisters-in-loudspeakers/38093)._