That is correct on both accounts. No fan and a P10 has more power than a modern P12. A P12 will sound better, but for strictly keeping the power steady and perfected, it’s hard to go wrong with a P10.
Thanks, yes, the Pass runs very hot at idle, like a room heater. I’ll check with Kent over there to confirm its idle wattage draw, I think its about 400, amperage around 2.3 as I recall, I don’t know what happens when its actually playing music at a reasonable level, thats what I’d want to find out…
It probably doesn’t draw much more when playing than when idling. That class A current goes into making music instead of heating your room. So to keep the room cooler, play music all the time!
True, they say it runs cooler when playing music!
Hi Paul, here’s the note back from Kent English over at Pass re the draw on the line voltage/current…is this fine with either the P12 or P10, I’d only be running a DAC (yours) and a pre amp for total equip on the regenerator…thanks
11:26 AM (11 minutes ago)
Draw on the amp depends upon how efficiently the sinks are dumping heat. Normally we see about 3.2A or a little less at 120 Vac… just under 400W. Just watch the AC line voltage at loud passages. see of it dips.
That’s typical of class A. They draw no more current than at idle if true class A, just the power goes into the speakers rather than the heat sinks.
You’d still be better off with a P10.
Thanks, last question- were there any upgrades in the p10 in the several years it was avail? I see some that are 6 yrs old and others that are 2 yrs old. I can buy a 6 yr old one for 2k
Not really. Go for the older one.
Hi Paul, I saw you comment that the only sub you like is REL; I’ve owned a couple of JL audio and thought they were great, tight, deep, controlled and fast. I’ve never owned an REL. I use Pass, Focal Sopra 2 speakers and your DSD jr. Have you heard JL and what is it about REL that you like? Im thinking about adding a sub. I’d run it to augment the system rather than run the full range signal through the sub (if possible) and I recall that Pass amps require specific set up with subs due to their negative outputs having power or something similar to this…
I don’t think REL’s the only sub I like, just my go to sub. What I like about it is its easy high level input from the main amp’s output - something I find critical. JL’s good stuff, though.