New PS Audio speakers?


It would not be a stretch. The Tritons are good but not all that revealing IMHO. Also, bass is not really going that low on them and with the upcoming AN3 you will have a huge amp and servo controlled woofer that’ll thunder the room.


Will the speakers still sound good with modern rock/pop, non-audiophile music?


If the speakers have such great internal amps, would the s300 be the sweet spot for the AN3? Seems the m700, would be overkill for just the high end drivers. Is my logic flawed?


The amp modules used in the m700’s are of a newer generation and a much better performer. If you want to use a Class D amp with the AN3 there are a multitude of options available.


I didn’t know the amps are using different class D hardware. I like the idea of a engineered system from source to sound. Im planning on a 100% PS system. I’m not really interested in trying various permutations of components. I want a system planned by the PS architects, so I can short circuit the process of selecting/building and get to enjoyment.


I have always been a fan of “overkill” because it means increased headroom and that’s always a benefit. The bass and midbass are self amplified in the AN3, but the all critical midrange and tweeter benefit from having the best amplification possible. The S300 would be a good choice but the M700s always an even better one.


Just saw this older post…

Very excited about these speakers. But having just moved into an antique (aka “old”) home, I would love to see some way to dial that current draw back to a 15 amp cap. At least on the AN-3’s. :slight_smile: Without that, these speakers will be a non-starter for me, and lots of other people, I’m sure.


Regarding “Peak” here are some thoughts from a novice:

I have wondered what goes on when approaching, near and at peak, and how that pressures the breakers. I would love to learn from Ted, Paul and others. I had a Carver 1,000 watt amp years ago which shut down during long duration-high volume play; but we never tripped a 15 amp breaker.

I live in an older house in county. After buying Stellar M700 combo, I could not discern any problems in sound quality, noise on the existing 15 Amp circuit. I also purchased a Detect for surge protection because lighting is my biggest concern. My limited hearing could not detect any SQ improvement. A PSA Noise Harvester was the only indication of “not so clean” electricity, and that was primarily when the oil furnace runs. I like the little device.

The M700 are powering 38 yr old Klipsch forte speakers, which are very efficient (in a 400 sq ft room). At very loud volumes, the preamp gain is set between 35 to 40 out of 100. The M700 don’t seem to be taxed. I was not worried in the least about load on the 15 amp.

Now I want the AN3 speakers which I read are going to be efficient, so I did not think about peaks or the 20 amp. I am not trying to sell the speakers, just want to offer some info, perspective.

But I realized a 20 Amp circuit was an inexpensive way to get clean electric when compared to a regenerator (which I covet). The PS forum was a great help in understanding the considerations when designing the 20 amp. Check the forum, the boys offered me a ton of info. At this point, I really fancied a new gadget. The 20 amp cost of $600 satisfied my urge. I think the circuit improvement in SQ for me was in clarity of sound. Now, I wonder if clean electricity takes a little pressure off the amps at peak.

Back to speakers, most people state audition before you buy. I think that is far and away the most important solution to the choice of speaker problem, testing.

But it leaves me asking a question of the forum and PSA staff: even during a few days or weeks of testing, say 20 hours of testing, will you hit many peaks or sustained peaks, loads? And how do I apply the results to speaker choice.

Apologies for taking so long to get to the point.


Replace your 15 amp breaker with a 20 (or have an electrician do it). Literally all there is to it, assuming your service is adequate. It would be exceedingly rare to be running everything in your house at once such that it exceeded capacity.


Circuit breaker has to match the wire size. 20A for 12 ga and 15A for 14Ga. You can always use a 15A breaker on a 20 ga cable but not the other way.

Edit: the above assumes copper wire with typical insulation like THHN.


Don’t worry, guys. The AN3 and AN2 won’t require anything other than a standard 15 amp circuit. The AN1 “beast” is perhaps a different story.


Paul if you can keep the AN2 at or under 20K I’m in


Thanks Paul. I kinda assumed that was the story, but am happy to see that confirmed. Thank you. I’ve run at audiophile level (if on the low end of that spectrum) for 40 years on only 15 amps. So I figured the 20 amp draw was for achieving the “full enchilada”, as it were. :wink: Thanks for the confirmation.

Thanks for the suggestion. But it’s not just a breaker - at least not where I live in Connecticut. A 15 amp limitation is generally tied to the overall service level being brought into the property, as in 100 amp (total) vs. 200 amp (where you start to see 20 amp circuits). So - generally speaking - getting a 20 amp circuit often requires an entirely new breaker box, grounding, and an electrical service upgrade. Totaling up to no small expense. This is experience speaking, from just having renovated a 15 amp circuit, 100 amp total home.

That - unfortunately - is the rub. In an older home in this region, a circuit amperage upgrade REQUIRES a wiring replacement to go with it, which ranges from stupidly expensive… to impossible.

All that said… I’ve lived within the constraints of 15 amp service for years. So the AN-3 living within 15 amps would serve me very well. Thank you. :slight_smile:


I don’t understand your situation but, in general, there would be no reason what-so-ever to be concerned about installing a 20A-1P circuit breaker in a 100A-2P service panel…assuming the proper sized wire and receptacle. I have specified such situations literally thousands of times.

I can’t imagine the conditions where adding a 20A circuit would require replacing your service panel. It’s highly unlikely your living that close to the edge of capacity (maybe space but a sub panel would be pretty easy) on a 100A service. Now…getting the proper sized wire to the load is another problem altogether.


Maybe over concern, but considering the main power amp(s) are one source of power draw, the servo speakers are another draw and if you go with powered subs, there is a third draw. Paul says a 15 amp circuit will handle an AN1 or AN2. i believe him 100%. But I was interested in his comment about peak effects on Sound Quality at the peak because I have never read any discussions.


Indeed. Thank you. You are clearly correct, in that there is NO issue with that, at all. It’s the tempting assumptions that the circuits tied to the upgraded panel can handle upgraded load is where the problems lay.

Indeed. THAT - is the whole issue. This whole matter is off the topic, and I don’t want to detract from an otherwise excellent thread beyond this reply. But to assume that a simple breaker replacement - or breaker panel replacement - is a solution to a need for a 15 amp to 20 amp circuit upgrade, when the underlying wiring does not support such, is a dangerous fallasy to even be discussing.

In some parts of the country it may well be that existing wiring can support a 15 to 20 amp upgrade. In that case, the suggested 20 amp replacement fuse suggestion is PERFECTLY acceptable. But that is not the case everywhere. Often in the northeast - in older homes in particular- that is NOT the case. And being VERY clear about the importance of understanding the difference between those two situations (wiring that CAN handle the load, vs. those that cannot) might make the difference between burning the house down. Or not.

I appreciate the response from PSA. :slight_smile: As I fear this is straying off topic, I’ll refrain from further reply to this sup-topic question.


Oof! The joys of vintage homes and infrastucture! My bad. I’m used to thinking of my current home as “old”-ish - circa 1957 - but my family having come from MA originally, I realize you could be looking at a century or two older. If we’re not careful, Steven will weigh in with the ages and restrictions on homes in London-Town ; )

Hopefully if you have gas laid on, that infrastructure is better than in parts of MA…


If you have safety concerns, maybe you can get a free on sight evaluation by a licensed electrician.


That’s my goal.


Beef, I live in MA. My buddies house was built in 1805, still has a field stone foundation, and dirt floor in basement.