New SR Master fuse review vs AM M1 and Purple to follow

FWIW, I am using a SDFB in lieu of a fuse with my P10 to good effect.

Does this also work if the P10 is under greater load? The glass fuse on my 230 V device is 3.15 A. The sockets are fused with 10 A. If there is a box in the circuit in front of the P10 that is supposed to protect the 3.15 A internal fuse for the regenerator current, the maximum usable connection strip would also be reduced before the box is switched off. A blue box from efuse that directly replaces the fuse and is installed would make sense in my opinion. But I think the selling price is a bit high.

That is what the SDFB does. You replace the P10 fuse with a metal rod and place the SDFB between the power sources and the P10 inlet.

FYI.

My thoughts on this may differ. For a component with only one fuse, an upstream fuse in the connection cable works with the Sluggo replacement. If a component needs to be protected with several and perhaps different strengths of fuses. How is it then with the box in the connection cable?

This solution replaces the fuse directly. Theoretically, you could replace every single fuse in this way. Multiple fuses, multiple boxes.

Interesting…thanks…

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Intriguing. Why?

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When I’ve compared plugs plated with Rhodium to plugs plated with copper or gold. . . I did NOT prefer the Rhodium even after a really long breakin. Too bright and edgy for my system. Same with some interconnects with Rhodium plated connectors. Makes me steer clear as general principle, and I’m at a point financially now where I am loathe to take any chances with an item.

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Well, you may make me to order a pure silver rod later to satisfy my curiosity. But I will wait to see which one sounding better in my system first.

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Hello, there are so many plugs, you can’t try them all. Which rhodium plugs have you tried? If rhodium then I have had good experiences with Furutech. Furutech knows how thick the coating needs to be. You apply the rhodium directly without a barrier layer layer.
The Furutech Rhodium ncf things require around 300 hours of play-in time to stabilize their sound. At first it sounds cooler and harder, but this will subside over time and will transform into a neutral and very controlled sound.
In contrast to Furutech Fi 50 NCF or FI 48 NCF, silver-plated connectors such as those used by Audioquest are less balanced, distorted and not as smooth, with less dynamics and sonority. Pure silver plugs like those from Iego have a smooth, open and at the same time warm, pleasant sound. The Furutech NCF Rhodium are more detailed and, in my experience, more neutral with a large stage. It should be noted that plugs and connections should have the same coating. Rhodium is very resistant and does not react with other materials such as silver or copper.But gold is also chemically neutral to other materials. Gold is easier to process due to its lower melting temperature. But it is also softer and wears out faster. Gold has its own sound that is perceived as warm/full-bodied and pleasant. Rhodium is very neutral and doesn’t sugarcoat anything. The sound is pure, resolving, dynamic. Is the layer applied directly or is there an additional spear layer involved? This also changes the properties. What material is underneath? The base material that is under the coating also plays a role. Brass plugs usually don’t sound good. Of course, it’s all a question of combination and personal taste.
When it comes to power plugs, Furutech gets high quality from the FI 38 onwards. The FI 50 is a little better because of the rear carbon housing. The FI 50 NCF is the top model with the best performance. This is closely followed by the FI 48 NCF (R) which uses a heavy stainless steel housing instead of a carbon one. Price performance of the winners. There are also versions with a gold or silver coating, but these sound one way or the other. Rhodium is more neutral in my experience.

Greetings Andreas

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Andreas, it was Furutech and I had over 1000 hours on one in a secondary system for hundreds of hours and then the main, and ultimately I did NOT like the sound. In my experience, it was not the most pleasing of the choices I made. Perhaps it was the most neutral, perhaps not, anyway I did not prefer it. Leads me to not want to try that for a “Sluggo.” Vive la difference. I’m VERY happy with the copper, and would try one with graphene considering the results of that in fuses.

It’s not just the plug contacts, but also the cable. The mixture makes the difference. Which cable and plug did you have experience with?

I don’t remember the model number, I had two PS Audio Solo outlets and connected a Furutech plug (mid-line I think) to each, one was gold-plated, one was rhodium-plated. I’ve had rhodium plated plugs on power cords and connectors on interconnects as well in my past. After plenty of break-in I didn’t really relax into the sound. These things are probably system and taste-dependent.

I don’t want to go on and on about this and I’ll just say I don’t prefer rhodium finishes. I’m happy if others do, but I don’t want to use them. Others are certainly free to experience them for themselves.

I think everyone has to decide for themselves what they like.
I just wanted to point out again that there are also nickel-plated contacts. These are common on standard connectors to protect the copper from oxidation.
At first glance you might confuse it with rhodium-plated contacts.
The market price of rhodium is three times higher than that of gold.
Manufacturers may take this into account when choosing the thickness of the coating and not just the optimal result.
As already mentioned, rhodium behaves neutrally with the right coating and the influence of the sound depends on the actual conductor material and purity.

No this was not nickel unless the information from the manufacturer was purposely misleading which was not the case.

Has someone compared the Master to QSA Violet?

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I haven’t compared it because I don’t have a QSA backup. But I think I read that SR Purple should be on the same level as the QSA Violet. If that’s the case, the new SR Pink could be interesting. Because it combines the advantages of Purple and Master.

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But the Pink wouldn’t be better than the Master?

So, my dealer told me Audio Magic M-1 fuses were not available. Another Dealer whom I wrote to was unaware of the M-2 Fuses. He contacted Audio Magic and they cheerfully made a new M-1 fuse for me, solving my problem.

In addition, a Kind Forum member sold me a spare he had on hand. So now I have a spare.

The piece of gear that sent a spike into my Gryphon Ethos taking out one of its two matching fuses has been sent back to Amazon. It will not do any further damage to my system.

I am now done forever with Audiophile Fuses. Done I say! DONE!

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Me too. I need to ask Juan what he thinks of this SR Pink fuse. lol.

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Turns out the Grimm MU2 requires a 1amp Fast Blow Fuse. I just happen to have a M-1 at those parameters. Kuhl.

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