Hey Paul, it’s entirely personal preference, but yes, I would dim them a bit if I could. Mostly just at night while movie watching.
When Googling this I think I came across some other PS Audio products which may have had selectable front light brightness (maybe selectable with multiple positions of the rear power switch?)
Not a big deal in any case. I might try some tinted film cut to size and see how that looks!
Hi Darren, I also just received my new M700 pair and intend to use it with my REL. I have not hook them up yet.
If I get hum without connecting the ground wire, can I connect it to my preamp which has a ground connection for the phono stage?
Also does it help too if connect the ground to an artificial ground box unit ?
Hi again
So I connected my REL to the high level outputs on my Marantz integrated receiver and it did work well initially, but there were two issues:
The output from the Marantz began a few seconds before the M700s had powered-up. This meant I heard bass audio only for a few seconds before my main speakers output any sound.
The configuration worked well initially (aside from point 1 above) but then it developed a hum from the sub, loudest when the system was powered-off. The hum was present with both high-level (Neutrik) or low-level (0.1 LFE) connections.
I have therefore elected to connect the Neutrik directly to the M700s as detailed earlier in this thread. I am only using this connector now and have left the LFE cable disconnected.
My question is regarding where to connect the ground (black) wire to the M700. The post above states to the chassis. Others have stated this can be done by loosening a screw, then re-tightening over the wire. Would an alternative be to use the more accessible silver part on the balanced input? Does this connect to ground? See attached photo.
Finally, is it strictly necessary to use the ground wire at all? While connecting the REL to the M700s, when I had only the red and yellow cables connected, the sub seemed to run fine, and with no hum.
Thanks in advance for any help!
That’s fine and no, there’s no reason other than hum to use the ground wire. Don’t use it if you don’t have to.
Thanks Paul. So just to confirm, the sliver clip thing on the balanced input is grounded?
That’s right, that grounds the head shell of XLR cables and too connects their shield.
Since this thread has been re-started, I just wanted to make a relevant point to the OP.
It’s really too bad - IMO - that the OP bought the single T9i. Anyone making the same decision for Maggies should note that for practically the same money you can have two T5i’s and get much better integration. I went down that same decision road for my Magnepan 2.7 QR’s, spent about 1/2 hour on the phone with a REL engineer, and wound up with a pair of T5, instead of a single T7 or T9. And boy am I glad I did. Sounds spectacular. Great integration. And surprisingly flexible placement with a pair of subs.
And since we are talking REL’s with Maggies, don’t be afraid to set that crossover frequency low. Start at around 52 Hz, and work your way down from there.
Guys on ur M700 monoblock terminals does it matter which set you use for the maggie’s to plug in? I have mine plugged into the unused ones next to the the ones the rel neutrix breakout cables are being utilized in Pete’s suggestion. It sounds silly but just wanna make sure my speakers are connected the right way
Won’t matter at all. Either set will do the trick.
thanks!!
I looked at the REL Txi. They utilize only one single (one channel) line input. How would I connect that to the RCA outputs of the SGCD. My XLR’s will be connected to my active speakers, which do not facilitate high level through or out put, not even LFE connections.
Canton and other brands Subwoofers do utilize 2 channel line inputs. There a see no problem, but with the REL Txi with single channel line input I cannot see how I can connect to the stereo RCA outputs.
You can hook up either the left or right out. At these lower frequencies most music is mastered in mono, so you’re not missing out on much. Or you might need a second sub for the other channel 
Thank you for the answer. I was really wondering. Now I know why Paul promote 2 units. I am indeed only hearing great things about REL. But they don’t seem to fit into my set-up.
I would not want to invest into a Subwoofer knowing that I might probably mis on half of the bass, that would not make me feel right even if it would e in rare occasions only.
The more expensive S/x REL’s do have stereo RCA input, so they must have considered it relevant.
Our space is a premium, no additional boxes in the living area allowed, the subwoofer solution would be for my home office and there will only be room for a single Woofer.
For those with similar set-ups like mine. There are other great subs out there, Canton A 45 SUB, Canton 12 R and ELAC SUB 2070. All stereo RCA input, lower frequency range (then the T/xi) and more power. They come standard with remotes to set all parameters and the ELAC even with an App to have all room corrections taken care of with the push on the smart phone screen.
I appreciate that you answered my question. I got an unexpected answer.
Might be an unpopular opinion, but the sub setup/placement is much more important than the actual sub. I’ve been using an old JBL sub for a number of years, and it kills it. People wonder why it’s in a weird place in my room, but when I tell them to close their eyes and try to guess where it is, they have no idea.
Also, check out the Goldenear supersub X or XXL. Great bang for your buck great performance.
When I started listening into Paul’s videos/ reading the forum, I neglected positioning of the speakers. Till a dealer showed / let us hear the effects. Luckily my wife was with me, so now the speakers are allowed some, not too much though ;-). Seriously it makes a lot of difference indeed.
I’ll check out your suggestions.
I have never seen Canton speakers in the US, but they are good value speakers. Should you get to this side of the pond and have time, check them out at dealers over here.
Curious your thoughts on the Rogue Sphinx vs the M700’s. Thanks.
Dancingsea:
For me, the M700/GCD combo was a very significant upgrade over the Rogue Sphinx. With the Rogue, I was bothered by some upper frequency harshness using Magnepan 1.7i speakers to the point where I used the high frequency attenuator. Harshness improved slightly with a switch to Mullard NOS tubes, but markedly improved with the M700/GCD. No further need for the high frequency attenuator, and now the sense of ‘air’ and spatial imaging cues improve. I was also really impressed by the increase in musical “weight” at the low end. This was apparent before hooking up a Rel Ti9, and further improved with the subwoofer. The Rogue Sphinx V2 is a decent hybrid integrated amp for ~ 1200, really a good deal at that price level. It’s not surprising for the price difference that you’d see improvement with the PS Audio stack, but I’m very happy with the current level of SQ. Hope this helps!
Doug B