I do have quality power supplies laying around that could power routers. I should see if I can match some up instead of being all dismissive about it. I could maybe learn something.
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Itās still not clear to me, if the audio network path contains a SFP optical conversion somewhere after the router, how the router noise (Iāll concede there is router noise) can impact what is heard. 
Canāt be router ground plane noise.
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Scott from CAD always tells me that no matter how much effort you put into reducing the noise of a router/network, it simply can never be too much!
Perhaps there are things that we (and industry designers) still donāt understand about this topic, science still needs to mature before we can truly solve this part of the chain. Hans B. also seems to be open-minded about this.
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Oh, Iām happy to remain open minded about this stuff, but it seems at least to me that if thereās an optical break somewhere after the router (and ideally as close to the audio equipment as possible), then any of this mysterious added contribution from a router would fall into the ādiminishing returnsā and not the ājaw droppingā category.
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Having a USB Pro module I already use a fiber connection before the MSB DAC. Nevertheless I hear the difference once introduced the Muon Pro and a better LPS feeding the router and a CAD Ground Control attached to the switch.
Canāt say why.
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Back to FB topic, I had a wonderful experience with the solid rhodium/silver sluggo, and it took three days for it to sound much better. I need to put back HP copper to compare since I remembered it sounded nice too.
I will order the hollow ones to see if I like them better based on vmaxās comment.
Both Herbies Giant Titanium Gliders and Furutech IF50 NCF plugs have arrived, but I will not see them for another week 
I have about a week at home before heading to Asia, so thereās no way I will keep a clear mind from all the tweaks I plan to do. But gliders donāt need much time to settle so Iāll start with that first.
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I listen to both of those guys!
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I will let the hollow silver break in then either reduce or remove the 3M piece. It seems very nice either way with or without the touch on the highs. I just couldnāt believe the difference between the solid and hollow versions. Maybe the solid ones are only good at first power distribution like the power plant.
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Great observationā¦I wonder about this as well. My router is the only network device on its stock power supply (PS) in my system.
A GigaFoil LAN Isolator and a host of āquieterā PSās and Ethernet quieting/isolating devices (including Ethernet to optical to Ethernet media converters) and switches are ādownstreamā of the router.
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Is a demo of a hollow copper rod possible? I maintain that copper will win out in the end and Donald (@dchang05 ) will owe me a donut when he concludes this is true.
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They would be easy to make if one had a drill press but getting center exactly would not be as good as an extrusion. Also what the drill might due to metal structure that a casting or extrusion would be smoother.
Sounds like a project with many variables.
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I really do like the copper. . . but having the hollow silver in the P15 and the copper in the SEWE300B is better so far for me in my system.
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I wonder how many manufacturers will void the warranty coverage on a product if they learn the user was employing sluggos with the external box. There is no guarantee that the device will react in time or at the correct value when the need arrises.
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Likewise, there is no guarantee that aftermarket fuses employed by fuse swappers will blow at the correct value when the need arises.
You raise a concern that has been voiced by many before you. Personally, I just donāt get it. There is nothing uniquely risky about using an electronic breaker in lieu of a fuse as far as I know.
I have been using a SDFB with my PSA P10 for months with no issues. FWIW.
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From what Iāve read, the FB is faster than a regular fuse.
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That could be an issue with things that have large inrush current.
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Doesnāt seem to be.
They have equivalent of slow blow & fast blow. Has anyone with a SDFB had any issues with lack of protection that we know of? Iām interested to know as Iām interested to buy. Iām particularly interested how it might work with my BHK, given that there are 4 rail fuses and two additional ones, of different ratings. Using the SDFB at 10A to replace the 10A rail fuses but keep the 1.6A and 5A (230V) fuses intact should work I think.
Until you experience an internal fault to the protected component you really donāt know the efficacy of the SDFB, or boutique fuse(s) for that matter. Not wishing such an occurrence on anyone.
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Kind of like asking one to prove a negativeā¦seems to meā¦
Look, I understand why some are concerned. But, based on my (admittedly limited) understanding of the equipment involved (both the P10 and the SDFB), I am not concerned the use of the SDFB leaves my P10 any more vulnerable to an electrical mishap than the fuse PS Audio originally supplied would.
Admittedly, they have not been in the field all that long. Nevertheless, the use of a breaker instead of a fuse is not a new or unique technology or practice; and I understand that some manufactures of amplifiers and other HI-Fi kit eschew fuses for built in protection mechanism very similar, if not identical, to the SDFB.
I guess time will tell the track record of the SDFB.
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