Swiss Digital Fuse Box, the fuse reinvented

FWIW, a little more educational/discussion tone and a little less bite might be more conducive for a constructive dialogue.

Respectfully yours.

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This would be a bad time for me to start a debate on whether fuses make a difference to the sound anyway, right?
(see I’m growing as a person)
:wink:

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Carlsbad welcome to the forum…

Just one little thing though…you came on your very first post with a touch and sense of being above
the rest of us, you are tad bit haughty …as if the rest of the audiophiles here knew next
to nothing at all…gee what a way to make an entrance and make friends…

In this forum we all learn from each other

You will get better acceptance if you tone down a bit mellow out …
There are a number of ee types here and so on…

Best wishes

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Thanks for the insincere welcome.

This isn’t my first rodeo.

Wherever I post, I post factually (Im a physicist) no matter how many posts I may have made.

I wish you luck in keeping track of everyone’s posts here.

I really don’t need your acceptance. You can choose to ignore my posts if you want. I’ll make you a deal, I’ll ignore yours.

Best,
jerry

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Congratulations Jerry the physicist …you just proved my point…

It looks like your first rodeo

Jerry we as a forum have been here a long time…

Best wishes

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The folks here are genuinely welcoming and usually kind.
If someone welcomes you here they mean it, even if they disagree with you.

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Well put @joma0711

Welcome @Carlsbad !

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It must be true, they put up with me: a scumbag-socialist trailer-trash wide boy who doesn’t even own any PSA gear :wink:

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Thank you joma0711

You are right Carslsbad has my welcome but needs some etiqutte particularly on his very
first introductory post…physucist or not…

Best wishes

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joma0711 you have not as of yet 2019 been a scumbag trouble making socialist…

Best wishes

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Thanks Joma711.

I would be very interested to hear how the evaluations of this “swiss fuse” go. I’ve been saying for years that someone needs to bring a circuit breaker replacement for fuses to the market. I would do it myself if I wasn’t working so many hours. Frankly, the circuit breaker we need should be more like $50 and the term “swiss fuse” rings of marketing to me so I am concerned this may not be the product we are hoping for but we shall see.

To see how much fuses degrade the sound, everyone should install a slug in place of their fuse on a clear sunny day. You will be amazed. If anyone want’s a slug for demo purposes, I’ll be glad to send them one if they pay the postage.

Is the current setting on the swiss fuse adjustable? Generally OEMs specify their input current limits fairly arbitrarily but I’m sure most owners want to treat the setpoint with reverence.

Don’t worry about Davida’s noise. i’ve ignored his kind for decades.

jerry

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Hi and welcome, Jerry. I did this a log time ago (circa 1985) for my power amp. I was working my first job at a defense contractor. Back then G-jobs were easy to make happen. :wink: We had a nice metallurgy shop, so I had a guy I knew in that group “add” to their next copper order a rod of the purest spec we could get at the time, of the right diameter to make a fuse. Once the material came in he made four for me, properly cut and shaped, two coated with 18K gold and the other two with silver. I tried them in my power amp. I learned about the difference some time ago! I still have them packed away somewhere.

G-jobs, those were the good old days. :smiling_face_with_tear:

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“Is the current setting on the swiss fuse adjustable?”

Currently only “programmable” (and re-programmable) by the manufacturer… One provides the specifications required and the kit is sent with that spec and labeled as such.

More (somewhat scant) information here:

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Rude and unnecessary wedge-shaped barb. Behave man!

Hard agree there - but this is audio land so I expect higher.
If it was for the “pro audio” market, but I don’t think they would go for it on principle.

So the neighbours can see the smoke?
I’m kidding there, it’s an interesting experiment to do, and worth doing for some.

Interestingly, I’ve heard lots of american audio folks swear by fuse tweaking, too many (I think) to discount, but not a single one in the UK, I wonder, in all seriousness, if this is due to the lower current requirements of power amps in high voltage regions.

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Nice :slight_smile:

Please stop telling people how to behave folks. Please.

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I see what you did there. :slight_smile:

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The irony (for me) is that I am more or less agnostic when it comes to the benefits of “better” fuses (and to a certain extent, the benefit of “better” power cables). I simply have not experienced any noteworthy (to me) improvements with the second-hand Synergistic Fuses (Quantum - Orange) I replaced in a couple of components.

The impact of the SDFB in my system really took me by surprise. I could hear a difference and I liked it. See previous comments above trying to capture the impacts heard thus far. Now, I am less skeptical regarding those who trumpet the impact of fuses in their systems.

If no fuse can make the difference I hear, then it is certainly conceivable that a fuse that emulates or approximates the benefits of having the SDFB in place along with a shunt in place of the fuse could impact the sound as well.

FWIW, YMMV, etc…

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Won’t happen again :slight_smile:
Probably.

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What @Carlsbad does not appreciate is that in the UK we have regulations (BS7271, known as The Regs or the 18th edition) that were first published in 1882 and apply to just about every domestic and commercial installation. There are also UK and EU regulations relating to the quality of the power supply - voltage stability, THD, impedance etc.

What these have only ever been about is one thing - SAFETY. For example, RCD’s are intended for one purpose only, to prevent someone being killed by a wiring fault or breakage, for example if an appliance overheats.

You and I may live 200 miles apart, but if you are up to the 18th edition, your installation will be the same as mine, even with earlier editions. I just upgraded from 15th to 18th Edition, which involved replacing every electrical connection and about 95% of the wires.

We have to have the same protective locked box, there is only one model in the UK, the same metal hockey stick for the incoming power and it has to be mounted at a specific height on an external wall.

The first connection is made by the power company with 100A fuses and they all have marked seals. touch these and they’ll arrest you, if you’re not dead already.

The meter is connected at the same time by the electricity supplier. Again, no one is allowed to touch this. It also has marked seals.

The first bit you can touch are the 100A breakers on the right hand side. There is a big black knob inside the house (lower left) that will disconnect all power and is designed that you can easily find it in the dark. If you can’t get to that, you just go to the breakers outside and whack them all off.

Everything has to be mounted on marine ply and in galvanised steel conduits. Everything has to be certified by a qualified electrician and it should be checked every 5 years. You then get a certificate, and then you know you are safe and your insurance will be valid.

The certificate covers every circuit and wired appliance. My certificate has 41 of them. The first two are audio. The certificate tells me it’s 18th edition (2018). For each circuit, it tells me everything about the cable, the insulation, current rating, the maximum and measured earth loop impedance (i.e. when it will trip) and the RCD operating time that saves your life (300ms is the maximum, mine is 18.4ms).

For audiophiles you have the circuit impedance, which for my audio is 0.18 ohms, nice and low, whereas for a lighting ring with lots of wire 1 ohm would be fine.

Here in the UK, and much of the EU, we take this stuff for granted. There is one rule book and my electrician knows it by heart. Being a Physics Professor is no substitute, although my electrician’s father is a Physics Professor. When I read about people using non-compliant devices, doing their own wiring, including Fremer thinking the Audioquest guy is a good substitute for a qualified electrician, I recoil in horror. Maybe the USA is still the Wild West.

The regulations could equally apply to the most sensitive hospital equipment as an audio system, if the job is done properly you are likely to have a better power supply and a 100% safe one.

There is a separate standard for fuses, and I’ll stick to 30cent fuses with BS1362 on the side.

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