No, impedance is affected by inductance, capacitance and resistance. For interconnects the capacitance matters more since it directly affects the bandwidth and hence may mess with the high frequencies if it is too large. In some sense as long as the capacitance is low, for audio interconnects the impedance doesn’t matter.
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Thanks!
Is your Esoteric Streamer home yet?
No, not yet. The salesman at Overture told me it is shipped from Japan to them and when he gets it. He will ship it to me, so it might take awhile. It is quite new. Meanwhile playing files from my DMP, the sound is so good, I not in too much of a hurry for the Esoteric. I will definitely have something to say when I do get the Esoteric though.
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As for the broken Aurender N10 that I gave to my brother, he already sent it in for repair. It cost $100 the first hour and $100 every next 20 minutes for labor and parts plus shipping both ways, something like that. But he was told it will not cost too much because it’s not that broken. We will see.
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Hi Ted, can you typically spot a high C cable type from it’s construction, or do you have to go hunting for the small print
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@ted:
Is there an interconnect capacitance upper limit that will not impact the DSD audio band high frequency performance?
Ouch! When I was in the market it was between the Aurender N10 and the Innuos ZENith MkIII. I ended up with the ZENith. Hopefully it hangs in there.
If your cable is a ribbon cable it’s probably high capacitance. Litz wire also has high capacitance. But in general it’s best to check the specs or ask the cable manufacturer.
The capacitance affects the knee of the high frequency boost, but other things in your system matter too. I hesitate to try to give an exact formula. Certainly anything over 10nF could be a problem, I’m sure some could hear 1nF. Remember that cable is usually specified as pF per foot or meter. You’ll need to multiply that by the cable length. 1000pF is 1nF.
Don’t get too paranoid about this, most cables aren’t high capacitance, but a few are.
Also, the DS Jr doesn’t act this way, a high capacitance will roll off its top end like most equipment.
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I think you are good with Zenith. The Aurender may have superior sound quality, but have theses start up issues plus the fuses burns out occasionally. First the SR Blues burned out, then the SR Oranges burned out then the unit itself burned out!! Such poor quality for the money. Maybe mine was a lemon and other N10’s are fine, I don’t know.
Sorta confused if you are talking about the fuses or the Aurender. And if you have any way of knowing if the issues are related to the aftermarket fuses or what.
The fuses burn out when I turn the power on. Put in new fuses and it works again. This only happened twice and started when the Blue fuses first came on the market. I put in HiFi Tuning fuses last and the unit burned out, the fuses did not. I’m saying the Aurender had poor quality or wrong spec parts for burning out so soon. And the logging on problem, maybe bad design? When the unit is running, it is an awesome unit as to sound and performance. Beautiful Conductor app. We’ll see if the problems is still there when the unit is repaired. The unit is not quite 5 years old.
Still confused. You are saying that you put aftermarket fuses in, and that is when the problems started? Or that the Aurender crapped out prior to modifications?
The first time was with the SR Blue fuse so I thought it was a fuse problem. Then I put in a SR Orange fuse and after a while, it also blew. So maybe it was a fuse problem with SR fuses. But why would the circuit blow after I put in the HiFi Tuning fuse last and the HiFi fuse did not blow?
Because it was the only one that was close enough to the maker’s spec to not fail?
Got to ask - did the Aurender fail in the years prior to your modification? If not, I have difficulty with the validity of your whole thread.
No, the Aurender was fine until I put in the SR Blue fuse. I had the HIiFi Tuning fuse in before and after the SR and it never blew, only with the SR fuses.
First I don’t think a fuse as expensive as the SR’s is not within spec. I believe there’s something wrong with the unit for blowing the fuses and finally shutting down. Why would it blow it’s own circuit for no reason even if I put a solid wire across the fuse block?
I have no idea - however, if I was the manufacturer, I’d say, “you opened it up and put random stuff into it”. So I have difficulty attributing anything in particular, including the unit’s “failure”, to it.
And I don’t know or care about Aurender one way or the other.
That’s why I went and bought an Esoteric instead. I have had no issue but absolute praise for Esoteric equipment from experience. The E-02 Phono preamp completely blew away everything I heard in the past. My brother asked me to bring it over to his place after he heard it in my place and it completely blew away his Boulder 1008 Phono even though his Boulder cost thousands more!! He traded his Boulder in for an Esoteric right away!!
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Who determines whether or not they are in spec as they are never tested to a specific standard. Roger Modjeski of Music Reference complained for years about the damage he saw done to gear as the result of people using these supposed audiophile fuses. The forums are full of people who bought the fuses size specified by their component manufacturer from these after market fuse companies only to have them blow in short order as they are over spec’d. So spend that big money at your own risk as that’s usually the position the component manufacturer will take.
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