This is all that occurs to me, and I think the likelihood of it working is less than 50-50, plus it requires your network putting out a wifi signal:
Get a network extender, plug one end of a short Cat5 cable into it, and the other end into an ethernet/USB converter, then a final USB cable with the appropriate terminations to the USB port on the SGCD.
I did look at that Belkin device and it looked good, until I got to the fact that it NEEDED an iphone or iPad (Apple device). I own an Android phone, so…
As a side, I’m not totally comfortable with using a device that the only way to talk to it is via, iphone to itself. I would prefer a more physical connection.
I guess I’m confused…
The Belkin is a direct replacement for the Airport Express (it will work with your laptop using iTunes same way your express did). If you want to move out of the Apple ecosystem I applaud you… superior sound quality awaits. But that wasn’t clear from your original post.
I think the rest of my post still holds though. I advise deciding what software you want to use on the server and the network streamer decision is narrowed to something supporting the software. It will be narrowed further once a decision is made on what input you want to use on the dac.
Minimserver & BubbleUpnp is excellent with Android
So other than my previous recommendation about a renderer at the DAC, with the server/NAS wherever, being controlled wherever you are at any given moment. Here’s another suggestion.
Build your Windows computer/server. Load it with the player software of your choice THAT IS DLNA/network compatible (I use JRiver myself). Put it right next to your DAC and connect via USB (with something like a Regen if you are so disposed).
Then CONTROL it from the “other room” via BubbleUpnp, or JRemote if you are using JRiver.
If you stream from Qobuz or Tidal, JRemote can’t do it, but Bubble can stream either/both to JRiver over the network. If you want, JRiver has a setting where it will automatically start when you start the computer, and you can even set it to start minimized (but running).
You don’t even have to have a monitor on once you have the JRiver settings to your liking. Just turn the computer on, grab your phone, bring up Bubble or JRemote, and start playing.
If you want to just use one interface, Bubble can use your JRiver library on the computer as the source to play the music (rather than controlling JRiver with JRemote).
OK, I wanted to let you all know that it’s snowing like mad outside… OOPs that’s a different topic.
Back to this forum, I wanted to give you some progress on what I’m going to try and will certainly let you know as it progresses. First I ordered a long USB (30 feet), see below, and a gender changer to get the end to a type-B which will plug into my PS Gain Cell DAC. Second I’m going to upgrade my existing server so that it has USB 3.0 ports (the cable specifies this is needed). I’ll be in search of the new motherboard today. Once the server is setup, I’ll then install the USB driver from PSAudio. I’ll then see if iTunes will function okay. I’ll most likely move up to JRiver though, because I should get as good audio as I can, including DSD files.
Best of luck! Make sure to post with your results.
I certainly will. I’ve been reading back through this series of posts and found some interesting things to look into further. USB Regen and DAC-UP. These won’t change my plan, but may enhance it (wouldn’t that be nice 
).
FWIW, I currently believe the signal chain, and any noise if might carry (or potentially pick up), is more critical than the software in terms of optimizing a digital system’s performance/sound quality.
Your experience appears to be rooted in the use of USB to connect the system providing your 1s and 0s to your DAC/Hi-Fi.
While USB can be an excellent performer, there are other options and many prefer to take a lot of extra steps to tweak the USB signal chain to get the most out of their systems, or forego the use of USB, altogether.
Good luck with your search for a solution but don’t be afraid to experiment with options other than USB.
Looking forward to hearing how it all goes for you.
Tom, be aware that 30ft is FAR beyond the recommended length for any USB spec to maintain a reliable signal:
You MAY run into data problems, signaling problems, or both.
If you are going to stick to having the PC in another room, and you are sticking with USB, you may want to consider USB over Ethernet as that has a theoretical maximum of about 328ft.
It is not ideal but you can get 30’ by using an active extension with a passive cable TetherPro USB 3.0 to Female Active Extension | Tether Tools
I forgot to mention in my prior post that the USB cable I ordered is actually USB over fiber. It’s from Sewell, Light-Link USB, USB 3.0 over Fiber.
Hopefully I won’t run into distance problems… But, I will let you all know.
Good idea!
Good luck.
Let’s hope so Scotte. Fortunately it’s not a lot of money. So if it doesn’t work, I can always look for another way.
I hope it works out for you, TRUE USB over fiber baluns are quite pricey (compared to USB over Ethernet). A good Ethernet setup runs about $100ish, whereas good fiber setups run about $500 +.
The Sewell isn’t QUITE USB over fiber - it’s a hybrid that still uses the ± lines with fiber for the data. From what I understand, it works OK with 3.0, but not so much with 2.0 (such as most DACS), In fact one of the reviews on Amazon specifically state that for whatever he did, it worked for 3.0 but not for any 2.0 device.
Could you post a good USB over Ethernet. I was looking at this and not able to find a good solution, at least one that would “hopefully” send Audiophile audio.
Just search “usb over ethernet” on Google or if you have Amazon, on Amazon. There are many of all price ranges. I tend to stick with StarTech, Tripp Lite, etc. Stay with a brand that has experience with Ethernet products.
I haven’t tried it, but TP-Link makes a pretty cheap one, and TP-Link generally makes good Ethernet products>
It has over 10.000 reviews with an average of 4.6 out of 5 stars. I don’t know of any “audiophile” type, but have not searched for it either. I would caution you on “audiophile” network products. Many are just rebranded junk or something made by people that don’t ACTUALLY understand how network electronics work. For example, I have seen “audiophile” Ethernet cable and the only thing that made it “audiophile” was they claimed to use heavier gauge wire. But guess what, heavier gauge wire doesn’t necessarily work well in an Ethernet cable when you talk about data transmission.
I suspect why the Sewell product doesn’t work is the fact that the data lines are optical but the ± lines are solid gauge and the D+ and D- lines are optical. Without getting into it (you can Google "usb 2.0 enumeration), all iterations of USB up to 2.0 needs a physical connection (via a 1.5K resistor) between either the D+ or D- line and the VCC line (5v+) to signal low speed or full speed. To designate high speed (480mpbs), there is a “chirp” that occurs between the sender and receiver. If the chirp does not work, it will default to full speed (12mbps) as long if the resistor is pulling D+ up. If D- is being pulled up, there is no chirp because the receiver is signaling it is low speed only.
The Sewell likely has no additional circuitry to account for this because it’s marketed as a cheap 3.0 USB over Ethernet product. From USB 3.0, the pull up resistor/chirp is no longer required, making such a simple device possible - BUT ONLY FOR 3.0+ PURPOSES,
Great information Tak. What’s not discussed here, nor on Amazon, is the other end. They seem to be using it for Internet access, which is fine. But, I need to have a USB Type B connector on the other end to plug into the PS Audio DAC.
If I buy two of these, as well as a Type A to Type B adapter, do you think it would work? Also, the USB port on the DAC is a USB 2.0 port. Might that be a concern?
I guess my USB over fiber won’t work, because it requires USB 3.0. Oh well…
You’re right. As I stated, I am not familiar with that particular item so didn’t dig into it. I just saw it a cheap adapter from a known company - but that is why it’s important for you to do your own research. Searching "usb over internet DOES give a plethora of the correct type of adapter. Examples:
I caved. I’ve been researching this for too long now. I, for the present anyway, am going with a:
I was just unable to find a remote communications that would work to my satisfaction. Nor could I find a server, that would fit in the rack/shelve unit I have a sound system in. I looked at the Intel NUC, but came away confused, as they’re not real clean on what you’re getting, what it looks like, etc. So I will continue my search, but for now I want to listen to some music.
I appreciate all of your help and will be back with advice or questions as they come up.
