Yes. I connect the PC to the Hermès via USB. Hermès to DS DAC via HDMI cable I2s. I use JRemote to control music and streaming. I use mconnectLite to stream Qobuz via DLNA from JRiver server. All local music (10 TB) is on a NAS server in my office. The HP EliteDesk is very quiet and shielded very well.
Have you ever listened to the DAC with the Bridge removed? I think you will be surprised especially if you have done the transformer and power supply MODs. The i2s connection is better then the USB connection that’s why I use the Hermes. It made a huge difference.
I added you to the list as I ordered an extra 5 units last minute.
I would also be interested, either in the expanded current batch or future batch if there is one.
You just made it in this batch.
Thanks! I will keep an eye out for the PM with PayPal link. I guess that means I’ll have to figure out what power supply to use too. High class problem.
jk,
Add me too, either now or the next batch. Thanks.
added.
I’m going to try and add to this order if it’s not too late. More are interested then I originally thought.
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If I understand correctly, the Hermes’ I2s output is compatible with the DSDac? I read that the I2S output from the Denafrips Iris us not compatible. I was considering the Iris since it is more in my budget range but will not buy because of this compatibility issue.
The Iris was my first choice also however it does not have a configurable i2s output like the Hermes and above does. Alvin form Denafrips stated a while back that they were considering adding that option in future releases. I would reach out to Denafrips support to check for this update.
Just finished building the cable for external power supply. Scrolling through the thread but having a hard time finding the power up sequence. Should the analog board have power first from the LPS? Then switch on the dac?
The analog card should be powered up before or at the same time as the digital card. Basically, the analog card needs to be up before the FPGA starts running.
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Just want to give a formal thanks to you and everyone in this thread who has given info on these upgrades. THIS IS INCREDIBLE!!!
I upgraded the transformers. Shielded my screen and I’m running the analog output stage via an external LPS. I’m in love. 
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Jkrichards,
Thanks for getting me on your initial list. I went ahead and bought one of the “Black 100VA 12V 6A Low Noise R-core DC LPS Linear Power Supply +display” model you mentioned in post #1885. The LPS comes with a cord that is terminated with a 5.5 mm plug.
Just so I have this straight - when your upgrade card arrives you include a screw-on plug. I will need to cut off the 5.5 mm LPS plug and solder in your plug in place. After that, I’m all ready for the install, correct?
Thanks,
Toolbox
You are correct. You cut / de-solder the 5.5 plug and install the supplied aircraft plug. Pin 1 is positive. The cable that ships with that power supply has red / black pair. Red should be positive which should be connected to pin 1. That’s a great power supply. I really like the sound of mine.
I have already three Farads in my system and was not amused by the story about that fried board by accidentally resetting the Farad (somewhere higher up in this thread). I’m thinking about using the HYPSOS from Ferrum as external PS for the analog board (5 ~ 30V DC out, 6A/80W). It has great reviews and is flexible with the output voltage.
I have three questions for the modding community:
-
Has anyone here any experience with using the HYPSOS with the DS?
-
Any advice how to solder the special cable to the provided screw-on plug?
From their website: “…Unique output cable design: two wires delivering the power and two wires providing the feedback to ensure flat voltage at every moment. This technique eliminates the harmful effects of the cable’s resistance effectively improving transient response. The current delivery speed at the powered device’s input is significantly improved. …” Or should I send HYPSOS the cable and let them do it?
- Are there any findings about fine tuning the output voltage? Or is this not advised with the analog board?
Don’t tune the output voltage. Dropping it lower will add noise and raising it higher will add heat. It was designed for an already semi regulated 12V. There are filtering and multiple levels of regulation between the 12V and any power use.
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It sounds like they are using the sense wires at the device end. Just get a pinout of the connector. Should be 4 wires. 2 for the power and 2 for the sense wires. Just remove (desolder) the 5.5mm and note the wire colors on the center pin (assuming + = center pin) and attach them 2 wires to pin 1 + on the new supplied connector. Attach the other two to pin 2 -. Verify you have 12Vdc and the plus is on pin 1. I have mine set to 12.07 Vdc the same as the internal power supply. I measured it before I did the MOD. With my power board I would recommend you set the external power supply the same as internal supply by measuring them before you do the mod.
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12V +/- 0.5V is fine. Aim for 12V, but a few tenths off isn’t a problem at all.
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Folks shielding the back side of the display…are your reported positive results while the display is on (any level other than “off”)? And, if you usually listen with the display off, does the shielding still make at least some sort of difference…99.9% of my listening is w/the displays on the BHK Pre, P15 and DSD off.
1 Like