Running a new dedicated 20 amp line materials

I recently purchased a PS-20, as well as the BHK monoblocks and preamp. I would like to run a dedicated 20 amp line to the PS-20, since I also have a 7 channel amp coming soon, as well as my Gallo subwoofer amp, and I feel that I will need all 2000 watts in that configuration. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to purchase ahead of hiring the electrician? I would like 10awg cord in the wall, and the specs that come with the PS-20 state that I need a single 20 amp outlet, not a duplex.

Hmm…observations and questions:

  1. I THINK PSA’s recommendation for a single outlet on the dedicated line feeding the P20 is based on their desire to have nothing else being fed by this line… I have a hi-quality 20-amp duplex on mine, but it’s feeding nothing else…
  2. Buy more than you think is necessary of 10g. 2+earth ‘Romex’.
  3. I made the point of installing my TRIPLE-20A. lines with NO splices in the cable all the way… I have the fussy opinion that connections have more impact on audio quaility than the cable material, so I stayed away from them.
  4. ANYONE–is there a super-hi-quality single 20-amp outlet?
  5. IMO the powercord feeding the P20 is also important; I spent a lot on money for mine including its Audioquest connectors.

Good luck–pls let us know what and how you did.

All good considerations,

Speaking of connections, I think the dedicated breaker could be upgraded for modest cost. I don’t know anyone/publications that have compared the commonly available breakers - and of course availability would be regional.

Perhaps one with gold or silver allow instead of copper or copper alloy and tungsten contacts?

You can use these single dedicated outlets you can get from Home Depot. They’re made for kitchen dish washers and garbage disposals or other dedicated circuits, or you can just get hospital grade 20 amp duplex. Just use one of the outlet and leave the other empty. Hospital grade might be better quality than the single ones.
Yes, get #10g wire from the panel to your outlet directly if possible. I would bring in a extra #10 wire for a second dedicated just in case you may need more power for future while you’re at it. It shouldn’t cost too much more for the addition wire. You never know what more equipment you may add in the future.

I just talked to an electrician that works quite a bit in my building. He says that mc shielded cable is required. Are there any sonic ramifications there?

I doubt it will make any different. Regardless, if that’s code then no need to fret about it, that’s what needs to be used.

The key is direct without splices and 10awg. Larger would be better but doesn’t fit standard outlets nor some breakers.

I agree with running more than one even though that’s all you might use now. MC does raise the cost though so you’ll have to weigh it.

image

PS Audio Power Port Duplex outlet

1 Like

I’m a fan of the old, 1990s Hubbell hospital, isolated ground duplexes from years gone by. Amazing grip strength on these boys. Made in the USA.

They’re still made but I don’t know if they are still made as well.

https://www.hubbell.com/wiringdevice-kellems/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Hospital-Products/Receptacles/Extra-Heavy-Duty/c/3038906?text=&style=list&pageSize=30&sort=PLPSequence-asc&q=%3APLPSequence-asc%3AFV_CurrentAmperage%3A20%2BA

Just put in 10/3 mc instead of 10/2 mc and you will have two circuits. Red and Black are hot and white is common neutral. And of course ground wire is also included with mc.
By the way, I am a retired electrical contractor. I was an electrician for over 20 years.

1 Like

If you use #10 wires, have your electrician put in the largest outlet box for the amount of outlets in that box. #10 is very hard to move around in the box. I used orange hospital grade outlets because they have copper contacts instead of brass and they don’t cost that much and I don’t think you would hear that much difference in sound from the expensive audiophile ones. But of course there are those who claim otherwise. #10 is very difficult to put on those 20 amp outlets, but it can be done. I have done it on mine.

I don’t believe 10/3 would be ideal for audio with the shared neutral and ground.

I chose to run two separate runs but then I only needed '20 from panel to outlet of Romex.

A lifelong buddy of mine is and has been a licensed electrician for 30+ years. He gave me the ‘bro’ discount :wink:

You might be right sharing neutral and ground is not good for audio. I have four circuits of #10 ran from the panel in metal conduit, two triplex’s and have not experience any adverse effect, but of course there is potential for adverse effect like hum and noise is possible. Then run 2 separate 10/2’s at the same time would be ideal.

I’ll keep all of this in mind. The distance with the right angles, etc. from the current junction box is only 25’, but the wall the outlet would be mounted on (and run on for about 10’) is plaster, and the apartment hall wall on the opposite side, so there may be some obstacles.

Keep in mind you can also surface mount the wire and outlet box if needed. I recently ran a 20 amp circuit using 10/2 with ground Romex to my stereo closet. Where I needed to put the outlet there was not access to the wall inner space so I ran it inside a piece of conduit where it came up through the floor and used a deep surface mount box as they have a little more room inside to wrestle with the larger wire. I would use one of the Hubbell hospital or industrial grade outlets. They are very well made and grip like they mean it. I used one of the fancy audiophile outlets in the stereo closet but used one of the Hubbell ones in a different 10 ga 20amp run. I honestly don’t think you will be able to hear any difference in your stereo using the Hubbell outlet vs an audiophile one. They may be available at a big box store but I got mine from Amazon.

1 Like

Doesn’t get much better than this. This is what I run and I love it.

If you don’t want to spend that much money then look for a medical grade outlet.

If you are looking for a serious distribution box w/ no filtering; I use this for my power distribution:

  • Solid aluminum chassis
  • DR Acoustics SoftMat anti resonant system.
  • Solid shielding system for EMI/RFI
  • Receptacles Cavities encapsulation.
  • Rhodium plated Furutech GTX-D NCF® Receptacles
  • High performance FI-06 NCF® inlet.
  • Double shielding system for EMI/RFI
  • Cryogenic 10 AWG internal wiring
  • No filtration system
  • Dimensions W (33cm) X D (13cm) X H( 9cm)
  • Weight 3 kg
  • rated 15A 125V

If you are looking for a serious duplex for your 10/2 single run:
https://www.synergisticresearch.com/accessories/power/uef-blue-duplex/

Loogadat!!! TY Todendengal.

Personally, I’d still use an Audioquest duplex outlet.

there are advantages to running @ 240 volts…

Indeed, fewer amps and smaller gauge, but greater chance of arcing. Car makers have struggled with this trade-off when experimenting with 48V systems.

arcing: how so? please be detailed…thanks!