Should I buy the Sprout100?

Not a problem at all if you do not like the Sprout’s sound. My point is simply that Class-D do not sound just one way any more than other topologies.

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My 2nd system in my den is a Sprout100 with Martin Logan 35XT’s and a polk subwoofer (soon to be replaced by a REL) and it is AMAZING. Working from home due to covid, it gets a LOT of play time these days and I couldn’t be more pleased. I do not find it lean nor thin in any way, in fact, the opposite. Very full and refined.
For a lower price, the Martin Logan motion 15’s can be had for about $4-500 a pair and their AMT tweeter (slightly smaller than the 35’s) are quite exquisite.

If you’re looking for speakers under $1K, check out Wharfedale EVO 4.2’s:

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I agree Stone. Even though it’s a switching amp, I don’t think I could use the word thin to describe any part of it. Maybe its chassis? The Sprout100 paired up with the Motion 15s is a STUNNING system

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But they are different, no? Not better, not worse, but different. No?

I grant you that Class-D are evolving, and I’m sure they are getting better. I wonder if the Sprout has evolved to that degree. It’s a nice little amp, but it’s only $700.

Now, the M1200’s, those I’d like to hear. Add a tube, and I’m guessing magical things happen.

I doubt many of us can tell from the sound whether one is listening to a modern good quality tube amp, solid state amp, or Class-D amp.

Amps certainly sound different, but the age of sterile solid state, syrupy tube, and hard Class-D is long gone.

First off, welcome!

I compared a NAD D3045 vs. the Sprout 100 with a pair of B&W 600 series bookshelves and found the Sprout to pair better. The sound was punchier, more dynamic and involving. They both played plenty loud and had good high frequency extension. However, there was little sense of space in either amp, which I attribute to the level of speaker. You’ll also want to add a sub for bass support. I ultimately chose the Sprout for it’s more dynamic sound and easier to use controls.

To make this decision, you really do have to sit down and start by listening to different pairings in your price range. Some have made suggestions on finding a good speaker–it’s a good suggestion. Make sure you can have the sets with you at the same time to eval and are able to return them without cost. Certain speakers will pair better with certain amps.

What you want to find is a pairing that is enjoyable for you to listen to.

Yeah, I am kind of blind here. There is really nowhere nearby to sample different combos… I am not terribly far from Philadelphia, but Covid and Politics have made Phili a problem.

For the past few days, I have checked out so many amps and so many speakers (online).
I have received so much helpful advice… ranging from upgrading one component to upgrading both. So many people are so excited about the equipment that they own and love recommending it…

At one time or another over the past 72+ hours, I have had these items in my cart at one point: AMPs: Sprout100, Outlaw, Yamaha 801, BRIO, Rogue, Audio Lab and for speakers I have had the: Wharfedale 80th, Dali Rubicon, KEF LS 50’s, Martin Logans, Elac ubi5’s, Elac 6.2’s, Magnepan LRS and Tekton…

I think the closest I have come to hitting buy were on a Sprout + Wharfedales or Sprout + Elac Ubi 5’s or BRIO plus KEF…

That’s just the thing though, I really don’t know what any of it sounds like except the BRIO/Magnepan Demo I had.

If anything and after all the advice, I do think I have a better understanding of what I want…

I want to purge my current anemic set up and replace it with something better.

I definitely want Bookshelf Speakers that would be described as rich, warm and detailed… and as far as an amp goes, a great phono stage and even a slight power upgrade would be appreciated. I really like the BRIO and the Sprout’s features.

The most “sensible” and cost effective upgrade appears to be the sprout and the Wharfedale’s or Elac ubi5’s…

I’m not sold on anything yet though… I could zig or zag.




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As long as you can return them without shipping, restocking fees, etc… Trial them all :slight_smile: – side by side. I’d filter the initial set by that criteria.

Make sure you follow all the best practices for setup: speaker placement, dampening speaker stands, basic room treatments, zeroing out any filters/tone controls initially, isolating subwoofer eval (if you plan to have one) from mains as those need to be paired and integrated with your final choice of speakers.

Good luck!

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Would stromgly suggest listening to a class A/B amp, for example, the Rega Bio R as compared to a switching based amp like an NAD D3045 in the same room with the same speakers. If you hear a difference get the one which sounds more like music.

Its funny to me on the DAC side we seek higher and higher sample rates because we know 20 times DSD will require less filtering and sounds better than 10 times DSD. While at the we time some are saying modern switching amps sound like other types of amps. Switching amps roll off between 40 and 50Khz. As compared to a class AB amp rolling off at 100k to 200Khz. That’s like saying a 88Khz sample rate sounds like a 352Khz sample rate. Are you sure? Most would agree 88Khz isn’t even high resolution.

And unfortunately most of us can’t hear past 20KHz. My hearing starts to wane at about 18KHz these days, having done many REW sweeps. Best to get all the high frequency enjoyment in while you can!

It’s not just about hearing above 20Khz, few among us could, otherwise the CDs sample rate of 44.1Khz would have been ‘perfect’. It’s all about how the high frequency cutoff impacts harmonics we all do hear.

i remember the heady days of hearing up at 18 kHz…

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:grin: Yup, I maxed out at 14khz last time I tested myself…

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This is the likely average of members of this site.


Indeed - saves on “super-tweeters” :wink:

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