Just lowered mine to 50. Living dangerously.
Roger, everyone.
36Hz for me (confirmed via REW), with the volume not much higher than yours, Paul. 
We’re in the manufacturing process on the subwoofer and we’re currently targeting January or February for the release date.
We’re still some work on the phone app for controlling the advanced feature set it has for parametric EQ, delay, “room correction” etc. but we’re very close!
I’m going to be doing a multi-part video series on some of the topics discussed here - the challenges of some videos on the design philosophy of the subwoofer and technology details of making a very long excursion, low distortion woofer and our amplifier solution that’s the heart of the product.
Do you have the approximate dimensions yet, Chris?
it about 14.75” wide x 16.75” deep and 17.75” tall (including 1” tall adjustable aluminum/ soft rubber feet), so it’s kind of a medium sized subwoofer. Smaller than the REL Serie S 12” subs, for instance. A hair smaller than the JL F112V2 as well.
I look very forward to seeing those videos. I had no idea adding a subwoofer would involve so much understanding, but it makes sense. We’re not just making things go boom like a simple theater setup. Essentially, it seems we’re futzing with the heart of the main speakers, changing their approach to a degree. And this is about music, not an effect. So I guess we better really be sure of what we’re doing. One thing I read about the REL T/7x is that REL doesn’t create DSP software for the product, but they are all for using DSP for the whole setup of mains and subwoofer.
Good thoughts, and your experience parallels mine. I’ve never had a subwoofers, but several months ago I began investigating them. And it certainly turns out to be a complicated business with a lot to know. I too look forward to Chris’s videos.
OK, a question for you, and one for everyone who might be able to help answer it.
Regarding the Speakon connection - that’s the only way of getting a connection from the amp’s speaker output, correct? The low-level input is from the pre-amp, right? So how do I get both channels to feed into the sub? The Vandersteen sub I was looking at had L and R inputs.
2nd question: I’ve read that part of the value of going with a subwoofer in the musical scenario (as opposed to just amplifying bass) is to relieve the main speakers of having to do all the bass-work, to minimize inter-frequency distortion, etc. So it would make sense to roll off the bass using a high-pass filter for the mains, right? Where does this filter get placed? I’ve read that it is between the pre-amp and amp, but if the subwoofer is running from the amp, wouldn’t that mean the high-pass filter is also affecting the sub? I understand how the low-pass filter works for the sub, since it’s integrated in the sub itself, with no effect on the main speakers. But how do I reduce bass in the mains without reducing bass in the sub?
A quick Google search revealed their recommended configuration at their website as available below:
Single REL Subwoofer Stereo Connection
Regarding question (1), in short when using the Speak-on high level cable red wire to right channel, yellow wire to left channel, black wire to chassis ground.
Of course the Forum consensus being a pair of REL subwoofers is preferred.
Question (2) would require an inline filter or crossover inserted between preamp and amp, and low level input from preamp to the sub(s).
Yes, the Speakon is the only way to get the high-level speaker output while the RCA is the low-level. @weedeewop answered how to connect a single subwoofer using the speaker out to both channels.
In my case I run the speakers full range, no high pass filter required.
I can verify this connection as I have a REL sub and M1200 monoblocks, however, I float the ground as has been recommended by Paul in one of his videos as well as a REL video I can no longer find. I haven’t needed to try connecting to chassis ground.
Thanks, as it is an important detail when connectiong to the M1200, and similar amps.
I would not get hung up on this, unless the LF from your main speakers is so overbearing or anemic that the bass is unlistenable/missing in action. Even then, tweaking your main speakers’ and/or your listening positions would likely alleviate this issue.
Instead, think of the additional subwoofer(s) as tools to allow you to smooth/tame your LF performance at your listening position by addressing LF room modes and nodes.
I have never tried to reduce the “bass load” in my main speakers when adding subwoofers and would not recommend it based on my (somewhat limited) experience.
Food for thought,
Cheers.
This.
Hey, you are one of the smartest and best-looking people I know. In other words, thanks.
So I watched the REL video about connecting to mono-blocks (my M1200s) and it says it doesn’t recommend connecting a single REL sub because it could create damage the REL or the amps. It suggests going low-level in this case. There are 2 reasons I want to go with one REL: first, budget, but second because of my small room. I spoke with my much smarter audiophile big brother this morning and he said since bass sound is omni-directional, it works fine to use a single sub, especially in a smaller space. If someone here feels differently, please, it’s OK, I won’t tell on you. So in this case, could I do what @tomhail suggests - to just float the ground? In that case, do I just ground to one of the M1200s? By the way, I should probably know this, since I work for Siemens, but I’m in marketing communications and a lot dumber than the engineers.
By the way, my brother said he tried putting a crossover in between the pre-amp and the amp to roll the bass off on the main speakers. He didn’t like it - said that he could hear the additional introduction of more electronics in the chain. He just said not to sweat changing the mains.
Thanks!
Great question! I can answer from my perspective/experience which is only with one REL and the M700’s and then later M1200’s. There was an earlier REL video that demonstrated the floating ground technique (red wire to right channel positive, yellow wire to left channel positive, black wire not connected). Here’s a post that discussed this and the quote:
and another:
I had posted a link to Paul’s video more than a year ago discussing connecting one REL to the high output of (class D) M700’s that described the same procedure I use. Can’t find it amongst too many other posts. I’ve used this method for at least 5 years on my REL T/9i with great results and no problems.
Thanks much Tom. I ordered the REL T/7x. Found an “open box” deal for 15% off. Hopefully the setup will go smoothly and I’ll report back. I’m a bit disappointed I didn’t get the chance to try the Vandersteen sub, but I just think going with something that others around here have raved about is a safer choice.
Exciting! I think you will be pleased with how straight forward it is. You’ll have to adjust placement as well as the sub’s gain and crossover, but there shouldn’t be too much trouble to get it dialed in. Keep us posted!
