This really requires photographic evidence 
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Is there an amplifier company out there that measures and specs the wattage of their amps accurately? Most amplifier companies only tell you what the wattsge is at 1kHz. That doesn’t really tell you what the true wattage is when you’re playing music.
The peak hold never hit 1000 watts. I didn’t sit there too long. I agree, loud isn’t “good” straight off without a lot of qualifiers. I for one can’t hear at that SPL as your ears will hearing compress. Thus, the ear plugs and helmet.
Don’t forget, bass takes a TON of power and isn’t as mentally taxing at high volume as higher frequencies, and those higher frequencies take far less power. Paul’s covered this before.
Best,
Galen
I get SOME help from the helmet’s foam padding before the blast hits the waxed ear plugs. Wind noise on a motorcycle will destroy your hearing, it is LOUD. I use ear plugs AND a helmet when I ride. SO, SO much better.
Best,
Galen
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Are you assuming that all watts are equal? 
No. Some are more equal than others.
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I used to race motorcycles…these worked better than custom molded plugs:
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And you will not be distracted by the police sirens behind you
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Galen, when you get around to listening to a Gryphon Class A amp, let me know if it sounds soft to you. I don’t think it sounds soft, it just sounds wonderful to me.
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Yep. These are good stuff. I use them and active hearing protection over the ears when I go target shooting.
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i use industrial ear defenders when i do the hoovering - not quite such a glamorous hobby but i’m told it looks appropriately daft 
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Ours are measured from 20Hz to 20kHz at rated power.
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Looking at the specs on the BHK 300 monos, and it doesn’t reflect that.
“Both channels driven 120vac mains, 1kHz, 1% THD”
I will ask Chris to jump in but from a practical standpoint and without specific measurements, I can tell you that yesterday the boys in sales hooked up a Sprout to the FR30 and were rocking the room. They sounded great and played as loud as I would want to listen to. And Sprout is 100 watts.
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When you say that the Sprout sounded “great” on the FR30’s, could you be more specific? Forget about loud, that’s easy. But how much of the dynamics and musical subtleties that are there with your flagship amps was the FR30 able to preserve with Sprout? Was it almost all there, or was there a night and day difference?
Well, yes, there was a night and day difference, but that’s to be expected. I was more interested in loud.
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We should probably fix that.
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Got it. I was worried when you said the Sprout sounded “great” on FR30, but I am always thinking in comparative terms - one component versus another. A highly resolving speaker should make a Sprout sound extremely poor in comparison to a high quality benchmark amp, of course, which I assume is how the speakers were voiced and what the majority of the testing has involved. So that when the Sprout was plugged in, the dropoff should have been monumental, I would hope
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Yes, I use these and you’re right, they are great. That is what is in the plastic tube, two sets. I always carry extras plugs as I hate to ride with no ear plugs. I ride a 1992 BMW R100RT and it is a rattley old thing so cutting out all it’s distracting “normal” rattles helps you feel like you’ll get home!
PS -the M40 HV’s are in ONE 20A wall socket so they CAN NOT go much past 500 watts peak in my set-up. I was still seeing over 100 dB peaks. Paul’s FR30 should do the same, or better based on the reactive portion of the impedance at frequencies, as the sensitivity is the same.
I’ve never had an amp over 250 watts until the M40, and I can’t say I need all that, hence ONE 20 A socket for them.
A speaker’s impedance and PHASE curve describes how much power is needed to push resistively against the load. A more resistive impedance vector will make the most of the watts and why reactive speakers need so much power, most of it is trapped in the reactive portion of the impedance vector so you need more “total” magnitude power to get the “resistive” power vector’s magnitude working for you.
This is what power factor is in essence on a power delivery system. You want the load to look most resistive to be efficient. Well, we want the same with a speaker, too.,
Paul has some good stuff on that I’m sure. It isn’t what the amp can make into 8-ohm restive that count’s although that’s the reference, It is what the SPEAKER allows the amp to push resistively…not the amps fault.
The FR30 are a higher 6-ohm impedance and thus are driven more by voltage than current (2-4 ohm speaker loads). If a speaker was infinity impedance, it would be 100% voltage driven. If a speaker is a dead short it is 100% current.
The higher impedance values are USUALLY more resistive, too, and that helps smaller amps drive a speaker with authority. No wasted power at low frequencies where 4/5 the power is used playing music. Every watt counts below 200 Hz or so. But, most speakers are reactive at low frequencies and you see the comment that that are demanding to run. There is no such thing as a “strong” amp really as that is limited by the “strong” power supplies current rating. When current is needed into a reactive load, the amps power supply is put to the task. Amps made to run into an eight-ohm load are terrible running audio. We have no good repeatable reactive / dynamic tests on amps to highlight an amps reactive load tolerance.
strapping amps mono can’t help as much as you’d think with reactive loads since the power supply runs out of current and you can’t ignore that. This limits the rated power when we strap the two sides.
Using bi-amp is usually better for current hungry speakers as the power supply is stout and was made for that amp, you hope anyway. Paul can highlight the advantages of strapping amps and bi-amp but your speaker design will suggest which one is better based on the kind of load it is to the amp.
Best,
Galen
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No hurry, Paul.
My query was at least half in gest. 
So excited for you and the team…what a blessing to be part of a constructive undertaking in a vocation you are so passionate about…
Cheers.
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