How much power do I need? (Car subs for home)

I’m buying two identical 12" (car) subwoofer drivers from a friend, well, it’s just too good of a deal to refuse even though they’re “for cars”. These used to cost over 200$ a piece when new (now buying them both burnt-in for 150$) and they’re generally well regarded products.

Their power handling is around 1,2kW continuous and 3kW peak. Sensitivity 92dB, impedance is 2x 2ohm (dual voice coils). What are the cons of not wiring the coils in parallel? My experience of DVC subs is null.
I can’t possibly hope for an affordable plate amp that handles these in parallel, in parallel. So, for an isobaric sub, I’d need two ~500W amps, right?
For home use, I don’t think I need to even approach the power handling specs.

Thoughts? Is this just stupid?
Should I invest in actual dedicated purpose woofers and forget this project?

(I just want something to tinker with…)
(And to clarify, I want infrasonic response)

Why not. Find some different cabinet designs and experiment. Go with class D. It’s fantastic with bass and its high frequency challenges will be irrelevant.

I would build a pair of open baffles first. Quick and easy, no bracing or sealing or porting.

Yes class D is a given for the loads, I’ve only read some sparse comments about class AB or BASH amps for subs sounding “faster”, with good toroidal transformer overhead of course. I don’t doubt it, they heard a difference, but it would depend much on the given low freq bandgap of the unit. I’d attribute “fastness” to bass higher than… 80Hz(?), as in, how well we perceive this attribute. A fast 20Hz playback as opposed to a slow one? Sure, it makes a (massive) difference but it’s at a range where you’d have to pay more attention to its speed and rigidity and such. I’m after a linear infrasonic response that I can feel in my chest over the fastest possible subsonics. This is why I’m after isobarics!
I only need the sub working up frequencies from under 20Hz up to only about 35Hz, so this would cut the power requirements quite a bit. Actually… Are they still nominally 1ohm loads given the leisurely bandgap? Isn’t the factory rating given for some “intended” linear frequency range that surely goes higher?

Anyone know to suggest some DSP-controlled fairly powerful D-class plate amps with high-level inputs?

" How much power do I need?"

Enough to impress and frighten the ladies.