I’ve come to believe in the school of thought for the best isolation of components, there is both coupling and isolation involved. I think the base rack needs solid coupling to the floor and from there good isolation of either the shelves from the rack, as in many high end (super-expensive) racks, or the components from the shelves. So in many racks you’ll see the bottom spikes which aids in coupling with a solid frame and then isolation shelves, etc. I agree with @lonson that the Mapleshades products are very nice with solid build and weight. Those would be an excellent start and aren’t too pricey. If cost were no object, I’d look into the HRS racks which have an amazing amount of technology built in and are solid with amazing isolation.
Since I’d rather spend my $$ on music and gear than furniture, I opted for a more economical solution in that a friend of mine made me a custom rack along the lines of the Archetype line of Salamander racks but larger and wider (and more sturdy). This has very high quality 3/4" maple veneered plywood with 3/4" threaded wrought iron rods with washers and screws. This thing is solid as a rock and pretty heavy. I can easily level the shelves and it looks great IMO.
From there I have been using the bronze and copper Nordost Sort Kones under my components and they do a nice job of isolation. For my turntable, I use a Symposium Segue ISO platform which is fantastic. I was using the Sort Kones under my TT, but this platform easily outperforms the Kones in terms of lowering sound floor, isolating from outside vibrations, and delivering tighter, more textured bass. The difference was immediately evident and irrefutable. So much so that I’m in the process of ordering a set of three Symposium Rollerblocks HDSE’s in lieu of the Kones for my Directstream. I like the concept of the rollerblocks more than the Kones for components and I’ve only found the Kones to be OK. I don’t want a Segue ISO platform under each component, though. Just too much.
I’ve found sorbothane to be hit and miss, honestly. For it to work properly, it needs to be adequately compressed, otherwise it is more springy than isolating. If too flattened, it does essentially nothing. So it’s hard to know exactly where that happy middle is. I’ve found that even with seemingly the right amount of sorbothane, bass is somewhat muddied with my TT and minimal (if any) effect with my other components. Plus sorbothane “sweats”, for lack of a better word, and can stain finished wood and discolor paint. Not a fan. I’d like to try the Stillpoints, but they are just so damn expensive I have avoided that path.
As far as the rack you are looking at, it’s hard to know how effective it would be. One thing I didn’t like about it (apart from looking it belongs in the bowels of the Death Star) is that the contact points are fixed limiting how you might orient your components. My components all vary in size and aren’t flat on the bottom, so that wouldn’t work for me. Plus I have other assorted items on my shelves like spirit level, flashlight, headphones, etc that wouldn’t be accommodated by that. That’s just me, though. It might be perfect for you.
So there’s my take. Racks and isolation are a tough business, honestly. I find there a ton of pseudo-science in isolation products, unfortunately, making informed decisions tough. Be wary and good luck!