Yes i have two 240 volt A/C units and a pool pump. Usually pool is off when Seriously listening. Keep me updated how it sounds. I have had mine apart since June and all my amps refreshed with new electrolytics. My audio memory will be poor but can always swap back to the previous outlets for an A and B. My speakers are still not upright. Been a long renovation. At least fall and winter has cleanest power so it will be good to get back to music. .
So i am getting a new main panel installed but I have a subpanel that feeds my audio system, would you install the EP-2050 and EP-2750 (s?) at the sub panel if I were to get them put in, or better to have it service the whole house?
I use TP-Link wifi controlled outlets to turn on/off devices, including the refrigerator, when I want complete quiet. The TP-Link have the handy option of scheduling turn-on times so I don’t have to worry about remembering to power the fridge.
I turn off the fridge more for the audible sounds not the power related noise.
The EP-2050 should hook directly up to the main breaker(s) servicing the audio subpanel. It supports two phases out of the box – I have it filtering both my phases at the main panel. The EP-2750 filters noise in-line with the ground line you want filtered, so you can filter the whole subpanel, or filter each circuit in your subpanel if certain devices/outlets are shunting more current down ground.
Thanks, only have one phase going to the subpanel. Thanks @vee ! would probably filter just the ground going to the dedicated lines on the sub panel, I guess?
That would give the best filtering / separation of the ground noise between subpanel circuits. I have a EP-2750 for each audio circuit.
While you’re doing that, the 65K AIC breakers are also much more robust than standard 10K AIC 20A breakers if your panel can take them.
Thanks @vee I saw that earlier in the posts here and was also considering that, I mean if they are in there anyway, why not.
So all in all do you think the EP stuff is worth the ~$900, I think it would be just to protect the equipment at the very least though I have the Shunyata Typhon QR and Triton v3 to protect them as well which both I believe have surge suppression.
For me, it does. I didn’t have surge management on my REL No. 25 subs, so it’s peace of mind for those subs. The P20 protects everything else. Since you already have some great conditioning gear, it may not help you as much. I would also double check that the conditioners you’re using are doing any work on the ground line. If they’re shunting noise to ground (i.e. via a Y cap), you probably still want the EP-2750s to filter that.
Great, thanks very much. I’ll call and ask.
I had to return the siemens breakers turned out not to be compatible with my panel after I got the cover off. It is an old Cutler Hammer panel. I did source some alternate breakers of electromagnetic type and while in the panel I went after all the bus bars, including the mains, also breakers and main power and ground connections and cleaned and tightened everything. Yes nearly everything was loose even connection of the mains from the meter. Worse was some neutrals and ground took 8 turns. That had to be electrician incompetence or plain sloppy work.
I had already received my new P20 so I looked at the power incoming before and after. All I can say is the Shunyata article telling one to do this tpe maintenance is genuine. The distortion went down overall 0.6 percent and voltage is reading higher by 0.4 Volts. I tried my new dedicated breakers on 10AWG on both phases separately and distortion did not change. Almost questioning if i need the P20 now. I bought both 30Amp and 20 amp single pole breakers so I can see what sounds better feeding the P20 and the amps separately. The Shunyata article recommendation is go big in gauge dia and amps for breakers. I did find my box had a sycon 150k amp surge protector. So with P20 no surge issues in store being doubled up in protection.
My house main panel is 28 years old. It is definitely worth the tune up. Overall it was a DYI job. I am now getting a consistent 125.2 volts 1.1 percent before regeneration. The new dedicated lines run about 0.3 to 0.5 less percent distortion than original duplexes The 30 amp fuses running lower a overall distortion than the 20 amp
Any opinions if higher voltage could be harmful to sound? I am going to have to set P20 below 120 to not overshoot. Unfortunately doesn’t seem adjust only in 1 volt increments. Any recommendations or is it better to slightly over shoot 120 Volt nominal?
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It’s not safe nor legal to use a 30 amp breaker without a 30 amp outlet. Stick with the 20 amp.
There are CH/Eaton BR type breakers with higher aic ratings that may be worth trying.
@brett66 Okay thanks didn’t realize 30 amp outlet needed, though the 10 AWG was correct. It is odd they let 15 and 20 plugs both in a 20 amp outlet. I did find the logic is outlet would melt.
I will research higher AIC CH breakers. I have old type breaker without neutral pig tail. There seems to be fewer options. Meanwhile put 20 amps back in.
Look for Eaton BRH120 or BRHH120
My panel requires the gray colored switch not the black. They have black plastic molded hooks and metal clip over the lug. None of those seem to specify AIC ratings.
Ah, sorry, I don’t know the CH series other than I do believe they are higher quality than the BR line. Check Eaton website, they bought both lines years ago.
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