yeah - going to solder the 8gauge into a Furutech single AC plug. Remove the #8 machine screw and slide the 8gauge into the hole and solder. The 8 gauge is a continuous run to my 400A panel. The transformer box is 30ft from the 400A panel.
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400 AMP service? That’s a big panel.
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Nowadays it’s probably justified. I have 200 Amps and three sub panels of 60 amps each. I would have saved some serious money if I started with 400 amps. In one instance the electrician pulled a 60 foot cable for my hot tub through the ceiling of a finished basement for a modest $4000.
We’re going to build our next house because we need accommodations for for my disabled son and the 400 amps is on the basic specs.
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My house came with a 125A service, and I upped it (replaced) to 200A when Solar PV was installed in 2010. 400A is a big panel, but if you need it, best to go big than having to retrofit.
I had them put in a 50Amp breaker and wiring when the house was built for my plan of placing a Hot Tub in the back of the house. I did very few upgrades, but a few key electrical circuits, ceiling fans, and coach lights. It was only a few hundred bucks 20+ years ago for the 50A circuit. Maybe a thousand dollars for all of the extra wiring.
@netspecht-2 - the house is about 5,000SF with casita (mother in law apartment), converted into a GYM with full bath (shower, toilet, vanity, closet). Four car garage, music room, 3 bedrooms, and a 75ft X 10ft X 5ft deep lap pool pool on the side of the house off the master bedroom. Pool deck is 60ft X 10 ft wide. (5) internal WAP (Wireless Access Points) and (2) external WAP. A lot of house so I think the 400A is about the size of the panel to accommodate the amount of circuits breakers. We are going solar in a few years when the “green new deal” communists subsidize that industry. Roof warranty is (2) years so the timeframe should be good. I wanted to completely wrap the house w/ spray insulation (2in X 6in walls, and conditioned attic - spray) to attack the cost of AC; having (4) AC units and (4) zones. I went tankless HW and 16 SER AC units. Solar is the next upgrade to really reduce the monthly nut. I figure the spray insulation will save at least $200 per month and solar will really reduce the cost of electrical after roof warranty is up. Now that Arizona has gone communist and added (2) communist senators, figure they will go after nuclear power next and electrical will be just as crazy as CA in 10 years. I designed the 30,000 gallon lap pool with 150BTU electrical heat pump (6X more efficient than gas) in tandem w/ 400 BTU gas heater. The pool length is east to west exposure so the pool gets sun: morning, noon, and night. Glad I got my mortgage @ 2.5% with 16month rate lock (construction mortgage) and sold our house in AUG. My P&I is only $2,000 per month; nice having $1M in equity to stay conventional; building a house like this in CA would bankrupt us. The build is working out perfect; and monthly nut will be very low; now that I will have to reduce my income going forward due to being taxed to death. I heard CA state is going to 16.8%; if you make a lot of money a year that would be 36% FED and 16.8% state + all the other taxes they hit you with. Nashville is looking better every month.
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When I went to school, my math teacher told me math was the most important subject. I‘ve found that to be true more often than not.
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There’s nothing wrong sharing fairly by taxing the rich more than the poor, a healthy society needs fair tax rates.
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(Sorry admin) barely even socialist (sadly) - tax rates that spread wealth fairly is the sign of a civilised society 
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Back on topic please.
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Fair comment, I have no intention to offend (and @cardri your new build house looks ace 
).
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I’ve been with Matrix on my system since yesterday, Wireworld’s initial line USB cable, HDMI simple cable, provisionally using an Nvidia Shield 2019 pro as the source.
The initial results are promising, even feeding the Matrix through the USB itself.
I took a chance and bought the Sotm battery I had asked the other day, apparently the marriage was not very happy, to be confirmed after the burnin period.
Allow the burn in process to take its time. The cable quality makes an enormous difference. The jump from using Matrix Audio’s own Upgraded USB to a Sonic Art Reference Blue Lightning USB was absolutely astounding in my system. I have an Uptone LPS to my Matrix X-SPDIF 2, but am still waiting for my Farad Super 3 .
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Yes, yours that has a long way to go and a lot to improve !!
I already ordered a Corious link Evolved for USB and for HDMI I am thinking of buying an Audioquest Forest initially.
I will leave to remove the Bridge from the DS only after having good cables and adequate transport, so that I can evaluate each upgrade well.
The amazing thing is to see that with the Matrix the set was able to dig deeper and search for details that were still obscure, I thought that this was no longer possible in my setup!
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After lots of thoughts and reading the great product reviews of LPS units for the Matrix. I was trying to decide between Sbooster with ultra upgrade and Farad fully loaded. I decided the sbooster was the best decision for me. For the price of a fully loaded Farad I was able to get a sbooster w/ultra and a Audioquest Diamond USB cable. The Sbooster is installed and the difference is immediately noticeable! I know from what I’ve read the Farad is receiving higher praise but the value of a better USB and external power source was the direction I went for now. The sbooster sounds fantastic on the matrix and I’m pleased with my upgrade!
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Someone using the Matrix with the 200mm Curious link?
Apparently it does not let the Matrix recognize the external source and uses exclusively the power of transport via USB.
This did not happen with WireWorld Chroma, Matrix immediately identifies when I am using an external source or not.
At last, my Farad Super 3 arrived today, upgraded model with Synergistic Research fuse and the better DC cable. I’m using a Sonic Art power cable with Furutech plugs, going into my P20. The Farad replaces an Uptone LPS that I had “borrowed” from the EtherREGEN, which is being powered by an AfterDark LPS. I have an Sbooster (19V) powering my Roon Nucleus+.
With only 3 hrs on it, the Farad has already made a quantum difference to my system. Greater presence, “live music” feel, and more detailed - it was already really detailed so this surprised me. Beautiful sound stage. It doesn’t seem fair to give feedback when it’s literally just out of the box, but I am one very happy camper, knowing that things will get even better. $1K for an upgrade of this calibre is well worth it.
Maybe if I’m lucky, my RAL HDMI might arrive in 2021…?
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I just cannot wrap my head around such an improvement with a power supply change. I am so happy you hear and enjoy it, I just cannot fathom that it is possible. Oh well.
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Thank you, Al. I’m struggling to get any work done (I’m supposed to be preparing for a Zoom lecture on Thursday). The sound is so entrancing. I am also astounded at the difference it has made, but it is very, very real. I had to double-check some of my Tidal streams to see if they were high-Rez. Standard 44.1 / 16 bit streams are incredible. I think the Farad is well worth the coin. It’s easy to spend more on a cable, etc. I guess the principle is that you cannot do better than the source, so every single measure that “protects the integrity” of the delicate signals goes down the line and gets amplified to our ears.
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There are easily heard differences between Farad3 and Uptone 1.2
I use fully loaded 12v Farad on etherregen now and it sounds clearly but not day and night better than Uptone. Farad is better from midrange up ,more resolution and transparency and top end is where it excels.
Uptone is beefier and a little blurry compared,bass notes take more attention and that low end grrr!awl is there more prominent.
I think Ghent Gotham dc cable to Farad might make it even better 
anyone tried?
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Does your USB cable have a separate 5v pigtail or none at all?
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