That suply comes with two fuses i had a 7 for 110vV and a 3,5 in the spare slot for 220v. The beeswax M-1 sounds better than purple.
Thanks for the info Vmax.
Trying to figure out the fuse amps from the smooshed lettering, caused me to think it was a 10A fuse I had in there, but I thought that seemed a bit robust.
So, let me pick your brain a little. (I’m retired and just lost my little part-time job, so I’m not spending money like I used to.) My original thought was to buy the Purples on the 3 for 2 sale and put one in the LPS unit for the DS, one in my Jays CT2 MK3 transport, and the last one in my Bryston power supply unit for my BP26 preamp.
But,so many people have been (bees)waxing prosaic about the M-1 fuse that I thought I could use one of the Purples in a different location and sell my 4 of my Orange fuses towards getting one M-1.
So, if you had to choose where to put the two remaining Purples and where to put the M-1, where would you put them?
- In the LPS for the DS
- In the Jays Transport
- In the Power Supply for the Bryston preamp
All opinions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Toolbox149
The purple is not bad. Do what is financially sound. The purple is a long and winding road to burn in. The M-1 sounds most natural. I’d put the M-1 on digital you use the most. Unless I had a powerplant it would go there.
Hi Folks,
After extensive update reading on the DS modding topic (been off for a while), I decided to try the EMI/RF mod.
I tackled both DS and Matrix SPDIF2.
Analysing several folks’ approaches, I decided to keep it simple, and rely on initial Ted suggestions, plus @gb-70 feedback.
So, I used 3M AB7050HF (bought on Digikey), on the following:
1.DS Sr
-
The three big chips on the back of the display/processor board
-
The USB processor next to the USB connector (XMOS)
-
The two small inductors near the USB chip - they are part of the XMOS chip’s power supply
-
The FPGA (Spartan 6)
-
The big 28 pin digital switch (says “MC100…") under the ribbon cable on the analog board
(I opted not to cover the oscillator module (22.6MHz))
- Matrix SPDIF2
-
FPGA xilinx Spartan chip
-
USB XMOS chip
I also applied a 10x10cm piece of AB7050HF on the top cover of my Roon Endpoint (small computer with J1900) but didn’t like the result, so I removed it, leaving it only on DS and Matrix.
In the end, seems to me I hear a more articulated lower bass, more “air” around the instruments and a more 3D soundstage.
Great!
5 Likes
I found best to only cover processor heat sink footprint area on lid on lid and strips on the RAM ICs and across the connectors on my SGC Sonic Transporter
It appears the square you used was likely too big
Thanks @Vmax.
Maybe I’ll try that (processor and RAM lid footprint).
I already have EMI gasket on USB and LAN ports.
1 Like
Reviewed the AB7050HF on my Roon Endpoint.
I reduced the piece on the lid from the initial 10x10cm centered, to a piece of 6x6cm over the processor dissipator (which is 8x8cm) and put a piece on the RAM module.
The piece on the lid messes with the sound (hard to describe, but it seems to take a bit of life and “meat”) and with electric fields, for sure.
The Roon Endpoint is connected to a KECES P8 (12v), and with the piece of AB7050HF on the lid, the power consumption is fluctuating between 0.7 and 0.8A all the time.
With that piece removed, the sound is restored, and the power consumption goes back to normal (steady at 0.8A).
I kept the piece over the RAM module.
So, experiment and listen are key to obtain a good result.
2 Likes
Your design for streamer is a bit different than mine. Mine uses the chassis as heat sink with no cooling fins internal and silver paste to transfer heat to chassis no air gap to lid. The absorber usually works better closer to IC device maybe try piece on underside of unit trimmed tad smaller than heat sink?
1 Like
I have a similar design to your streamer on my Roon core (the case itself is a massive heat sink), based on Intel Nuc i7.
The streamer has a different approach (J1900 generates much less heat, and it has more than enough power to streaming role).
1 Like
hello, i would like to hear the latest news
1 Like
Hi Lufubu,
The LL1948AGs are amazing. I was streaming Dave Brubeck and Nora Jones last night.
The notes have better duration and texture than my CD for Dave Brubeck’s Time Out album. Nora Jones voice is fantastic. It has a lot of detail and warmth.
It is taking a long time to break-in. The sound stage was collapsed the other night. I let it warm-up and it returned to normal. I have been letting it play while I do other things around the house.
Some of the songs appear to be coming directly from the speaker instead of from a band playing. I added bass trapping in the ceiling/side wall intersection area. Too many reflections may have been eliminated or reduced from the additional trapping. I’ll try taking it down to see the results. But that is a lot of work so it may be a while before I do it.
-Alan
3 Likes
Thank you, listen on healthy days.
I too just got mine installed today. Only about 8-10 hours burn in. I would say voices seem to have more jump out at you. Guitar strings and transients seem faster. Hoping a bit less of the jump out in voices with burn in. But so far so good.
Is that compared to the original Edcors (PCW Tri-Filar) or the XS4400s?
-Alan
The 4400’s
Did you Do VCOM and C704 capacitors too?
Sorry no. Not that skilled. I did the external LPS and transformers only.
Probably more skill than me. I stick to cable soldering and take surface mount and plated through hole work to a tech that works on my Amps. But I ordered the parts both the electrolytic and some film SMDs. I will let the tech decide what he’d rather do for the BCOm. Thanks for sharing your initial thoughts. I usually pay extra to get my work on his bench same day. Do he loves to hear from me.
Yeah a local friend does it for me. I got him into roon and focal cans. He is a DJ on the side amongst other things. But a really dam good guy with electronics. He was able to do it within an hour or so. Took out the 4400’s and put in the lundahl’s. Letting them burn in a bit more. Try to follow the mods in this thread, but I just get lost. I have the 3Ms sheets but just not even sure where to begin. Not really going to start swapping caps and op amps.
1 Like
The 3M mods are easy on digital board ICs on the video card ICs. I started that craze just following Teds directions. I also did a fence for video boards with absorber. JKRICHARDS did a post before Lundahl of absorber stuff. Ted lays it out early in this. I just followed Teds guides when I did 4400s. The Lundahl’s need no absorber on them since they have own faraday box. @nimitz did some absorber mods in another post today in different thread.
1 Like