Several members have asked about a missing bottom insulator.
I only supply 1 bottom insulator as we don’t use them in the DS DAC. We only temporarily use them to help align the header pins for soldering. Please read the instructions as it explains this.
Anyone who would like a manual for the adapter kit please PM me.
Also I discovered a quicker way to align the header pins to be flush to the top of the adapter by pushing down on the bottom insulator near the pins to push / slide the plastic header strip down instead of just using your finger nail.
This:
Instead of this:
The adapter kit with transformers mounted will only fit in the DS in one direction. The Parallel / Series pads should face forward (toward the front of the DS). You should see these pads when installation is complete.
The new adapter kits also have two solder pads on the rear of the unit for DS or MKII use.
Looks like somehow you received an old manual. I see it only shows 1x40 pin header strip also as 2 are supplied. Sorry about that. Everything else should be the same.
Manual revision posted here.
https://forum.psaudio.com/t/signup-and-order-for-the-lundahl-ll1948-transformer-adapter-board-kit-for-the-directstream-dac/29876/22
Jeff, I don’t recall seeing it on mine, but did I get the MkII iteration of the board? Not at the house at the moment. 
No one has the new boards as I only have one pair for testing when the MKII arrives.
D’oh!
To be fair. This is the first package I sent out that has received this type of damage. This was a international shipping so I’m not sure if USPS did this or someone in his country. Another reason to not ship internationally. It looks like some incompetent worker put this through a machine which should not have been done. Fortunately he did received everything in good usable condition. I have had packages sent via UPS and Fedex that looks like it fell off the jet.
OK… Probably a good idea as that’s how I got ripped off. From now on I will only accept payment using F&F no exceptions.
I found that the problem was caused by a strange currency calculation difference. The problem was solved by defining some excess limit on the virtual card. The interesting euro is the same in Turkey and Estonia.
If they didn’t select you as a beta tester, that test is not a beta test.
What test would that be?
You are both nice people, so I’m sure this finally rules out as soon as you could step over sensibilities and miscommunication and give it a second chance.
Guys, let’s be gentle with each other, please.
I totaly agree Paul.
I read the posts before they were deleted yesterday, and this is not what I want to read here.
Could somebody help me, please? I bought a (zerozone?) 12v 6a linear power supply as shown in message #1965 and similar looking to the 3v model shown in message #2015. This went with @jkrichards power supply board.
I would like to take advantage of the sale on Purple fuses, but when I removed my current fuse to find out what Amp fuse it was, I found the fuse holder had smooshed (yes, that is the technical term) the SR fuse, right where the fuse size is printed.
Does anybody know what Amp size I need?
Thanks,
Toolbox
Hi Adriaan,
I’ve been out of town and just returned. Below is information from Ted. I searched for ‘@tedsmith emi/rfi’
You can find pictures by searching for emi/rfi and scrolling around. I don’t know anything about electronics. I used information from the forums to place the material on the boards.
tedsmithChief digital dude
The difference using some of the shielding material should be noticeable - people have used “audiophile” RFI absorbers and noticed the results. In general the biggest digital offenders are the biggest chips 
I don’t want to take the time to wade thru all of the options and make specific recommendations, but here are the best places to try and the frequency ranges of interest:
In Sr: The PIC/control processor/display processor on the back of the display board is the worst offender in the box. (80MHz plus all sort of impulses reading flash and ram, etc.) In the Jr the control processor is the one that says “PIC 32”.
Probably 2nd most offender is the Bridge (high clock rate - 100s of MHz and lots of current.) It’s the chip on the little daughter card on the Bridge II or on the little daughter card in the Jr next to the Ethernet connector.)
I don’t know which of the following causes the least or most RFI/EMI:
The USB processor is next to the USB connector, a little smaller and says XMOS. (About 400MHz + harmonics)
In the Jr the Ethernet PHY is near the network connector and says “ASIX” About 125MHz and probably not the worst offender.
The FPGA says “Spartan 6”. (some 22.6MHz, a little less 56MHz and a lot of 170MH - the number vary a little from release to release.)
The two small inductors near the USB chip might be a place to try if you can make sure that nothing can get shorted - they are part of the XMOS chip’s power supply so they have a lot of changing current.
In the DS Sr if your digital board still has rectangular epoxy PCB material just over where the audio transformers are, adding some magnetic shielding to the BACK of the digital board might be useful. Make sure to not short anything. There are no traces in those rectangle on any lower of the board.
There’s probably no reason to shield any of the other bigger chips (mostly regulators and higher current diodes.) But it shouldn’t hurt.
On the analog board there are only two places I’d try anything, both just under the ribbon cable: the oscillator module (22.6MHz) and the big 28 pin digital switch (which says “MC100E…FNG” - 11.3MHz.) Some people have reported good things when shielding them and others the opposite.
You might also find that wrapping some of the absorbing material around your power cord and/or you interconnects (especially digital interconnects) may make a noticeable difference, perhaps good, perhaps bad depending on the rest of your system.
