Yes, me too. Did all the modifications step after step, although in two DS. Don´t hesitate to ask!
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Lundhal also has brand value
Thanks for your input on the the upgraded MKI.
I’m looking forward to having my MKI upgraded in the very near future.
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Had C704 switched from 15nF to 6800pF in the DS I. Sounds perfect. Listened to Classical, Jazz and Blues. No more changes until I get a new DAC or replace the Bridge II. Using Lundahl 1948s with the VCOM mod and outboard Farad power supply for the analogue board.
-Alan
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Also in my case it was just apparent in a fraction of recordings with more critical top end. Not sure what difference the 8200 will make when I get mine back from another measure.
Can you guys please give me a tip regarding the right PSU for the 8132
The ultracapacitor bi-polar PSU I wish to use can output +/- 3.3V or +/- 5V. Better to go slightly below with the 3.3V or above the 5v?
Unless you are intending to do a lot of surgery, neither will work. Lower than 7V can cause at best more distortion and at worst huge extra current demands. Higher than 7 to 8V will require removal of some caps and transistors.
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We started the opamp replacement, it was a problem on the first try due to insufficient equipment.
With the change of equipment and technician, we changed the next ones without any problems.
They were originally 50V film caps Panasonic ECHU, C5 = 27nF, C8/C9 = 1.2nF, C10 = 12nF. They definitely need to be replaced given your pictures.
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Thank you very much. Can you also tell me the physical dimensions for the order?
ECHU, the voltage, the tolerance and the values give you everything you need. I used the 50V/2% versions. The ones I originally used are being phased out but the new versions (ECHU(X)) are available and are fine substitutes.
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Does anyone have a picture of the DAC with the top off showing the fuse location and how it is installed in the DAC?
If you have a good clear picture or two, I would appreciate if you would please post some.
I spent a few minutes looking on line and came up empty handed.
Thanks in advance.
Two fuses in yellow circle. The one that is active is the one near the center of the power supply. The one on the top in the photo.
The cap lifts up with the fuse inside.
Great. Thank you, Jeff.
SEE
Solder the output leg from the 7V stabilizer to the large area of the removed Q700 transistor. And bring the minus to the stabilizer through the capacitor C700. And that’s it!
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Thank you very much.