I wonder why there’s restrictions. That’s too bad.
I hope they start to flow more freely. The upgrade, which I haven’t done yet, seems to have a very positive effect.
When you are at checkout, that‘s what they say:
EU and UK Customers
Due to recent EU and UK VAT rules placed into effect, EDCOR can no longer ship to EU countries and the UK.
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I ordered mine December last year. Still waiting…
Last estimate is 31th of may. Hopefully this year…
Politics now influencing our hobby. Sigh.
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It seems to me Edcor are prejudist against non-US customers. I’m quite shocked by their behaviour. Don Audio have been very helpful to me and have refunded my order now without complaint. I don’t care what excuse edcor give there is absolutely no excuse for not fulfilling the order after 7 months when they supply them to US customers almost weekly.
I bought it from america without any problems.
I used the American address.
Woah… does this mean the DSD output stream is simply selecting which group of digital switches will be delivering +12V rather than 0V, with the two groups’ outputs wired in opposite directions through the transformer?
I had never really thought about it. Just imagined one group of switches for positive voltage and the other for negative, from two separate supplies. But using the exact same supply and swapping polarity is going to give much better linearity.
How does this work in the Jr where there’s no transformer? Or have I got a wrong idea in my head here?
Yes, you are close (I might be misreading something minor.)
Indeed one supply has advantages in linearity. But also every digital switch is balanced so the current going thru them is pretty steady even during the switch - sort of like class A instead of … something else. So yes, each switch is basically simply changing the direction of current thru the transformer. By having switches in parallel, but with reversed inputs and outputs we also cancel out some non-linearities (if any) in the digital switches themselves.
The Jr does require a bipolar supply to drive a fully differential output opamp that, except for having to deal with any DC offset looks a lot like a transformer.
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Try doing that again selecting country of UK. You will find it’s not on the list. I emailed them about this and they said it was deliberate. Otherwise I would have done.
There are companies doing this business in America. Your cargo goes to that company in the USA. They are shipping on you too.
Look at countries in Europe, find a company doing similar business, have them send it to someone without restrictions, and it will be sent to you.
For me, it’s too late now. The new dac will be out in 6 months hopefully
@tedsmith, and those who have done the mod - any thoughts on which solder to use? Ted, I assume the DS was put together with lead-free solder, but would it hurt if I used something like a Cardas Quad Eutectic lead-containing solder? I still have some left, and I’ve liked it in its past uses on boards, so I was thinking of using it. Even if I don’t use that one, would you recommend staying with a eutectic solder?
I also have some saved away amounts of WBT and Wonder solder, along with good old Kester 2% silver, and a bit of Mundorf - but I find the Mundorf has a very high melt point, and I don’t want to use it on PCB type work.
Others who’ve done this work with a temp controlled iron - any recommendations on the temperature setting to desolder the old trannies from the pads? Thanks.
I’m finally going to be getting back to my system in about a month and will be able to get this work done. 
I have little direct experience with the “sound of” different solders. I know that a manufacturer I trust was surprised at how much better their devices sounded with lead free solder on their surface mount boards. I expect that the advice of others that have done a good job on the transformer mod is better than mine on this point.
We used wbt, good solution.
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I used that very Cardas type you mention with silver (and, yes, lead).
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Yeah, that’s the stuff I’ve used the most in the past. Melts and flows beautifully, a gorgeous bond, no real “sound” to speak of. Just good “audiophile” grade solder. I love the Mundorf stuff but even with my reasonable skills on a Hakko I wouldn’t use it on IC work, or even on passive parts on a PCB. Too much risk for me in overcooking the pads. That stuff needs a lot of heat! Great for cables, though.
I use WBT and have used it for a long time. I think the difference would be so small when just replacing one or two components in a circuit that it should not be a concern. The difference may be more noticeable in a complete circuit build, but then again it’s going to to come down to personal preferences and system synergy. Integral to the pursuit of the best audio possible, is the pursuit of perfect signal transfer. Science has determined that silver is the best conductor. So as long as the solder used has silver, I think 4% is now the standard, I don’t think there is a need to stress about it.
I think you’d be surprised at how a far a little practice and preparation will enhance your skills. I suggest you get ahold of some throwaway boards and practice removing and installing components. Investing in a panavise with a board holder and a helping hand are key.
This particular Panavise attaches to the helping hands. It makes a very nice combo.
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Ted, referring to DSII how about an IEC connector with a fuse holder. This would make it much easier to experiment with different types of fuses. Looked at the Furutech FI-03(G) as an example. Can you say what manufacturers RCA connectors will be used. Hoping they are at the very least copper.
Thanks.
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