I had trouble with 1A audiophile fuses blowing. VH Audio advised getting slightly higher rated ones. Maybe due to 230 vac rural power? I’m sure 1.25A would do no harm.
You might check out
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Dear lufubu,
I have ordered the Furutech PCM RCA connectors, you’ve used and in principle I’m ready to do the mod.
I am confident that I can do the thinning of the live lead as you’ve suggested.
I haven’t reopened my DSD after successful performance of the EDCOR mod yet (should have done both mods in parallel), so I first looked at pictures of the PCB to plan the mod. What I’ve noticed is that there seem to be 2 solder points very close to each other where I would have expected only one (namely the live lead). I’ve marked this on the attached photo. Could you please advise which of the two solder points is the live lead? And do you also know what the second solder point is (just for curiosity reasons, I think the second one needs to be protected against heat when desoldering the live lead solder point).
Thanks a lot in advance for some expert advice…
Best
Christian
Hello there,
My master did it, not me. So I don’t want to mislead you. The healthiest result is to measure with an ohmmeter. We thinned the live tip using a drill. In addition, there are removable parts in furutech, it is necessary to remove them.
Take it easy, I’m here if you need help.
Dear lufubu,
Thanks for offering your support. I very much like your suggestion to check connection with ohmmeter, simple and effective. I was thinking more complicated than necessary on this one.
Best
Christian
I have a question for those who have done the Edcor XS-4400 mod: I was told by someone on the website herein that some special screws are needed to unlock/remove the DSD Sr. cover.
Apparently, if anyone of you ever ordered a DAC upgrade installation kit, you would have gotten those screws.
So, I looked at this PS Audio DAC kit installation instruction video, and I think I have identified the said screws : can you confirm?
Can the DSD Sr. be opened by a technician without those screws or are they mandatory?
I have read many technical posts about the mod but never read anything about the need to have those screws for opening the DAC 
.
So now, I have just received my own XS-4400 and would like to have it installed by a technician over here in Montreal ASAP and want to know if those screws are absolutely necessary (I don’t want any damage done to my DAC), and if so, do I need to get them from PS Audio or can I find similar screws else where and what are the spec for those screws …
Thank you in advance for any valuable info.
[EDIT]: I just spoke to the technician here in Montreal and he says he needs those screws - so the screws are mandatory …
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There are no special screws. You remove the 4 black screws on the bottom of the DSD. Flip it over and use a vacuum lifter to remove the lid and watch for the static butterflies or whatever they are called. They can fall into your electronics.
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You don’t need the special threaded studs for opening the DSD. Remove the four screws and use a suction cup device Like this one on Amazon will open the DSD.
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The kit supplies four diameter UNC 4-40 threaded threads of about 1.5 " each. I have bought some bolts that meet that spec and if the feet of the DS are removed it should be possible to push off the lid, remove the bolts (because unlike straight thread there’s a head to the bolt) and then finally remove the lid. I’ve not tried it but I have the bolts. Having said that, I’m pretty sure there are other ways of prizing the lid off.
This link takes you to the video:
DirectStream Kit installation - YouTube
Dan.
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@watchdog507 , I was thinking that between buying a vacuum lifter of suction cup versus getting 4 little screws, I think I would prefer the screws especially that the technician has already used that method for the DSD Sr. of another PS Audio Customer.
But, I will ask him if already own suction cup (or something to that effect).
What are those static butterflies exactly that can fall of, and are they easy to put back ?
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@danofesherintheuk , do you think I could get 4 UNC 4-40 screws of 1.5 " length and then just cut the head off (and buff-it up to remove any metal shred) and make sure to screw-in the extremity that was not cut-off?
I don’t see why not if they’re mild steel - stainless is more difficult. I don’t think the length is important so you could buy 2" then you’ve got length to play with.
Thanks!
I didn’t realise he’s disabled - I take it all back (ONLY JOKING).
These are the ones I bought, which are SS but I don’t really see the need to cutoff the heads. (one obviously needs to select diameter as 4-40, then length (e.g. 1.5" or 2") and then pack size of 5. I’m sure other sellers in Europe will offer something similar.
4-40 6-32 8-32 10-24 UNC Socket Button Head Machine Screw A2 Stainless Steel | eBay
@danofesherintheuk , what does it mean “SS” for the screws, because when I look at the picture from your link, I don’t see anything special with the thread of those screws so I am asking in case there is a little detail I am missing …
I guess cutting off the head will make the job of my technician easier as the screws will just slide through the holes and come out on the other hand as the top cover is removed.
I will try to have my hardware store customer service do it for me, otherwise I have a Makita grinder with a nice carbon blade ready to cut some screw heads 
.
I did something similar about a year ago as I needed a headless screw that could screw from both ends to connect two parts and it worked great.
Sorry to confuse, SS is short for Stainless Steel. Dan.
If you get the longer screws with heads, as they are easier to find at places like ACE and True Value, and get them long enough once you insert them the six turns and push down on the DS the lid will pop up enough that you can then just remove the screws and pull the lid straight up.
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Thought I too would ask, what are the static butterflies, how many are there and just where should one reinstall them?