@elk
I should point out because I don’t think this is being understood, I have previously said using the modified caps I do hear sounds not previously heard with the stock cap, there is clearly more high frequency extension and mid range detail present, the bass still has the same weight but better definition.
Yes, and we are both addressing Fabien44’s observation that the Wima’s are not specialty caps. 
I am waiting on some new equipment before I work on mine. I thought that I would get a suction desolderer from one of the big electronics houses in town but when I saw their price tag I went the internet route. I went with a rework station that also has hot air. Sort of a kindred spirit. 
@wglenn
There is nothing like a well thought out plan when doing these small project especially if it is not your day job, easy to overlook what would be a simple detail.
It worked out really well when I used my son to help, I did that on the second pair only as I learnt from this particular situation and thought I could do better. Using a second pair of hands did make the process more efficient.
I only paid about $125.00 for an OK desolder pump and already had the manual hand desolder. I think the desolder wick would be to slow and offer to much heat to the board. I like a quick action.
The speaker post need doing to increase room you will need the extra millimetre for the slightly bigger caps
Best of luck with your implementation I hope it goes as well as mine did
johno said: There is nothing like a well thought out plan . . .
And the proper tools. It took me longer to learn this than I like to admit.
@elk
absolutely, the right tools for the job are essential and the experience using them. Extracting components is not my day job so I got in a little practice on an old PCB to re-familiarise my skill before diving into the NC400. good to realise the different heat points of varying solders used by manufactures and the multi-layered boards. The NC400 removal of the capacitors was easy in comparison to extracting components from a very old Nuforce amp board.
Cheers
John
A practice board is an excellent idea.
I have made lots of cables as well as put together components. I have not modified existing boards other than some very simple swaps with good access. If I were to tackle this project a good amount of practice would be wise.
I have never worked with the SMD type boards before and although these particular components are not SMD’s I approach this with some trepidation. Most of my experience is with “heavier” equipment. Guitar amplifiers contain big clunky circuits; large, durable components wired together with large solder joints - much like the average crossover network. I have done my share of circuit board work but nothing like this. Tools, yes, having the right one for the job is a key element for success and I do love my tools! The hot air does look like a good way to work the SMD boards. I have another project that will require removal and replacement of some SMD transistors and getting some practice first will be a big benefit. I may stop by an electronic repair place to see if they have some junk boards around. I’ll take a look at my recently toasted computer motherboard for some little parts to mess with. Thanks for the ideas, John and Elk!
@Johno- did you replace your binding posts with wires in each of the holes or just two? What gauge wire did you use? A photo would be great if it’s not too much trouble. 
Hi wglenn
Yes I connected - looped each hole using silver wire I had available. Making a U shape beneath the board and popping up the top side if the legs are made longer you can then make those reach the other holes beneath. One of the pictures this thread shows that as an example. I wanted to create a good surface area to absorb heat encase I wanted to re-solder - reattach to the speaker post in future.
We are not soldering SMD components here on the NC400 and the job calls for a soldering Iron. the Hot air device will attend to surface mount components only.
Regards
John
Thanks for reminding me of your pics. Got it! :-c
Yes John thanks for the pics! They are most helpful.
Hello wglenn and other who maybe interested in the wima cap mod to the NC400
Ric has advised additional information and amended earlier statement of the cap orientation, the middle cap should be positioned the other way around than earlier stated they are not all facing the same way the middle cap is opposite way round compared to the caps on each side of it.
Pic attached which Ric wrote
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Attached files 
Thank you, thank you, thank you! The mod went back on my to do list and got bumped by a few other things. In this case, I guess that’s a good thing.
@wglenn
Excellent, I was hoping you had not finished, I will look to make the adjustment at some stage, though no burning rush to do, but I’m certain I will at some stage.
Cheers
John
Hi to all, I just bought a used NC400 so I would like to revive this post to ask you if the mods are still the same or do you change something in the meantime.
I’m not so good in soldering, but you tempted me a lot.
While I’m waiting my NC400, could you suggest me which fuses I must order? I read you use the “HiFi-Tuning Silver supreme”, are they better than the Furutec?
Arturo