Operational difference between S300 and M700

I recently upgraded my S300 for a pair of M700s. I noticed that the behavior of the power is slightly different. If you were to say, switch the power off via the main switch on the back of the S300, the internal red LEDs would stay lit for a long time. For the M700s, they switch off within a few seconds. Also the LEDs are always red on my M700s. I think I remember my S300 internal LED being red when I first got it, but I could’ve sworn different colored ones lit up by the time I sent it back, or am I going mad?

The internal LED for my Stellar GCD is green.

These are random, probably unimportant questions, but I’m just curious.

Was my post edited by a moderator?

The S300 and M700 are in some ways very different kit. The Analog Cell is close to the same but power supply and layout and, yes, even the LEDs inside are different.

Not to my knowledge.

Thanks. Was just wondering. Everything sounds great! I’m at about 150 hours and the M700s are making my Maggie’s sing!

I still think I might get a sub, though…

Nope, your post is unmolested. The topic was moved to the amplifier section however.

Can you describe the difference between the S300 and M700s on your maggies? I have two sets of maggies, one running on S300, the other running an old Nelson Pass amp-- Forte 1a. Considering M700s. Here in San Diego the power company keeps on jacking up the electric bill, so the Class A amp doesn’t get used as much, and only when it’s cold, which isn’t often.

Well, I only had the S300 for a short time, and one of my Maggie’s tweeters wasn’t working properly so the speaker had to be replaced. I didn’t really “get to know” the system well, but one thing that definitely popped out at me was the improved bass. The M700s make the Maggie’s go boom pretty nicely, though a supplement may still be needed. I’ll determine this after I play around with room placement some more.

Definitely yes on that sub. It’s always a great idea. Glad you’re enjoying the M700. They are truly a great set of amps.

I’d like to, but I’m not sure how to pair them. The 1.7i goes down to 40Hz. How do I dea with overlapping frequencies? Would it make sense to set the cutoff of the sub all the way down to say, 50 Hz?

Over lapping can benefit in room response. You really just have to try it. Measuring is ideal but one can get very close by ear, and ultimately it’s the sound that matters.

Drive the sub with high-level signal from m700 if at all possible. I gained MUCH better response by doing so and Paul strongly recommends it.

Jensen makes transformers if needed to convert from high to single ended input on sub.

You’re missing the foundation without sub frequencies.

Now I need to figure out if it’s better to go with a Magnepan DWM bass panel (only goes to the 40 Hz as well, but coupling effects can apparently extend that down a little) or something like an REL Sub. The model I’m looking at only gets down to 30 Hz though.

I’ve been exceedingly happy with my Rythmik L12 sealed, servo subs. The go well below 15Hz in my space.

Their website is a bit dated looking but the tech is legit. http://www.rythmikaudio.com/

I had a look at their site. Looks good! I think we might have a sub contender.

I love the red LED fan shaped glow, one of my separated M700’s projects on the rear wall, through the top vent slots, in darkish listening sessions. Pretty cool… anyone else noticed?

I have the DWM (came with mini maggies). It’s dead accurate but it just doesn’t push air like a sub. Don’t expect a bass drum kick or a cello rumble. But with the DWM there’s no character mismatch, as can happen when a cone tries to keep up with a planar. I used to have Martin Logans and there was a mismatch between the cone and the panel. Big cones are slow and can’t keep up with mylar.