A few moments ago I powered everything down, disconnected the power cable from my P20, and installed the Gift Beeswax fuse. I had just finished watching No Country For Old Men and I thought I’d better get to it while I still can.
Damn good movie.
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Yes one of my all time favourite movies too,but how’s that fuse? 
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How’s that fuse? Amusing that you should ask that.
I am using a Roon Daily Playlist. I know a few of the artists but none of the songs. So right now the fuse sounds like weird new music.
The fuse appears to be passing current. My system still amazes and delights me. Describing what I hear would just be a list of cliches.
First fuse thought: It doesn’t suck.
What I am hearing now. I know and love this one. Perfect for fuse testing.
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It apparently didn’t make things worse. Hopefully it didn’t reform back to its original beeswax form needing 125 hours after sitting idle. But who knows maybe it’s like cables and the beeswax is just another dielectric after sitting it needs charged up?
The true fuse test is returning back to original fuse the standard P20 fuse sounds God awful compared to the Ultimate premier or Purple Fuse in my system.
The Beeswax has an interesting and impactful mid bass bloom in my system but I have way to many drivers reproducing those frequencies and Room probably not dampened enough. I do think the beeswax wax hits harder in low bass than a purple fuse. Highs clear not etched.
So please lay on your superlatives of syrupy no particular origin.
I actually fear you might have sent me a fuse identical to the one PS Audio installs but stuffed it in a Beeswax box you had laying around to trap me. If I go on and on about what a difference it made you spring the trap and tell me the truth that you actually gave me a common fuse.
I’d do that to me. Heck yeah.
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Vmax … I may re-visit re-installing the absorber material.
Your new preferred position seems to be, to cover half the toroidal transformer and then going out to the end of the P20 display?
I installed mine central over the screen.
I’m also unclear as to how you did the overlap of the underside edge of the P20 lid?
When I had the top off my P20 the lid covers over the front of the P20 chassis and along the front edge of the chassis are three little shiny strips of metal, (I presume these are the EMI strips that Jamesh mentioned).
I was concerned that adding the absorber to the front edge of the lid would compromise the closing of the lid as it would add extra ‘width’ to the lid and possibly knock one or two of the EMI strips off?
Hard to explain the above but I think you did carry out the above procedure?
(I found the lid a pretty tight fit.)
How did you avoid the aforementioned pitfalls?
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Now your making me go check that. Nope! still have stock PS P20 fuse. Good one though. Why didn’t I think of that? 
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Yes overlap the EMI lid three bonding strips so more of. display screen circuit card is edge EMI emissions get absorbed and ensured positioning stayed same as I was using external. I sliced a strip of the adhesive peel back about 3/16 wide and placed over adhesive.
When installing lid i did at a angle similar to how a car hood or bonnet in UK speak is angled by imaginary hinges the absorber was tucked under fwd lip of chassis and seated forward edge first then aft part of lid last. If you attempt to seat lid flat or parallel io chassis initially absorber would catch on lid. Thus the need for angled placement in a slow fashion.
The first photo depicts peel back strip i placed on absorber overlap. The second photo the stck dow absorber.
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Cute Bunny, a fine film, and your impression of the fuse?
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It really hasn’t seemed different.
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If you need to shutdown your whole system when switching fuse or powercord or whatever with your P20 and you have etherRegen,ocxo clock and all that gear etc etc there also to start all over and needs to get back up running temp…well no wonder if you or anyone else have hard time to evaluate differencies. I have learned that just the ocxo clock takes a few weeks to show it´s true magic again if it restarts. I live in constant fear of power outages because of that 
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The only way to really know is spend a few weeks and swap back then see if anything stands out. I know after running the purple that swap back to purple or P-20 stock fuse was more obvious Really muffled. Maybe the fuse differences is more apparent if amps are on the P20?
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I have not pursued special clocks other than what is in the Matrix. Right now after installing the BAV 10 gauge power cord on myLPS powering Netgear router modem and switch. I am not wanting to touch anything for awhile. The system balance seems perfect. So I understand what your saying. Seems the lousy power cord a McIntosh stock amp cord on a router in my system was holding all else back.
I had a great listening session last night one of best ever. It still amazes me how digital bits are not just bits and affected by power, noise, and timing. I guess it is all about jitter. Galen said the BAV cords are a good noise filter. I see why you’re liking them everywhere. Though the Dragon on P20 stays.
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I’ll check those out quickly brother!
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Oh man, not the whole May DAC doesn’t come into its own until 2000000 hours stuff again. I don’t like that kinda nonsense.
My system had been playing music for hours. It was shut down for less than 4 minutes to swap the fuse. I powered everything up and then took a long shower and had breakfast. Then I inhaled the magic fumes that open all my abilities to concentrate on the music. I listen first to unfamiliar music then a playlist of all my faves. It didn’t sound worse.
The only reason I mention what I hear in these early moments is because people keep asking me what I think. What I think is I’ll tell what I think after days of listening.
It didn’t make an immediate impression like the 3m sheet did. And early on removing the sheet and then placing it back in place was obvious.
This ain’t that. Yet. I will keep listening.
But my Townsend Podiums arrived a half hour ago so I have other things on my mind at the moment.
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My system is definitely a lot more transparent since I put in a purple sr fuse in my P20. Not subtle. I don’t like what vmax’s mod does though (sorry Vmax, nothing personal).
No offense taken no shoe fits every foot no matter the brand or availability of shoe sizes. Nor does one tweak work in every system. Everyone’s individual opinion matters. If we all saw the world the same way it would be a boring place.
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I’ve been playing with a Furutech NCF Clear Line for a few months and getting very similar benefits that seem reported for the absorption sheet. I think that I’m at a limit to what I want in that direction and so I’m not going to try absorption sheet modification, and I don’t think I could bear the weeks of laughter my wife would emit if she saw an absorption sheet on my gear.
I have the NCF plugged into an outlet on my P15–I’ve also tried it in the same outlet as my P15 is plugged into, but plugged into the P15 has the best result.
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I don´t like that nonsense either but it is real with these clocks and they need time to get going and a split of a second is all it takes to start over again. Other gear not so much but it was not what I was after, I had a vision where you sit in front of magic making ice cream cones and thinking why I didn´t jump to fuse wagon earlier 
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