PP12 vs 15

I have headphone set up based on DS mk2 and Aurender n200 + Wells audio headtrip 3 or Feliks audio euforia amps. The whole system consumes not more than 250 Watt peak. Looks like PP3 is enough, but I’ve read pp12 is soundable better… should I consider pp12 or may be pp15 as well or pp3 is my final destination?

Based on my experience with a Steller P3 and P10, as well as reports from P12 and up users, I suggest you invest in the “biggest” model you can afford.

All indications are that low impedance and the “ease” they can provide in supporting a system is a key function/contribution of PSA regenerators. According to @Paul, this performance gets better as you move up the product line.

I have not tried any of the “bigger” models and Paul is (appropriately) biased, so take this advice with a grain of salt.

Given the number of pieces of kit in your system, a P20 seems like overkill, but I don’t think a P12 or a P15 would be.

Please let us know where you end up and what you think once the kit has settled in.

Cheers.

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If you can afford a P15 I would suggest the P15 over the P3 based on my experience with both.

I started with a P3 on a Stellar Strata, and it seemed like I was making a compromise on the sound stage size (as compared to directly plugging into the wall) but it provided greater bass control and clarity for mids and highs which for me was more enjoyable. A nice thing about the P3 it allowed me to change fuses and I found the sound stage using an M1 fuse was improved.

As I added gear to my system I kept calculating how long until I have to upgrade the P3. With the current Axpona sale I decided it was time to upgrade and just replaced the P3 with a P15.

The P15 sounds better and the sound stage is bigger/deeper than it ever was (I just ordered an M2 fuse for it, so that’s with the stock fuse). Interesting thing, according to the P15 meters my system never goes over 300 watts which means it’s still within the limits of a P3 - but the P15 sounds better.

Starting with a P3 worked out for me with PS Audio’s trade-in program - but if I knew then what I know now I would have gone straight to the P15.

Be aware, I spent as much on power cords and fuses (bought two different PCs and three different fuses) as I did on the P3. This can be a rather slippery slope!

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FYI, I have P12, I like the form factor with same size of my other PSA gears, but, there are two fans in P12. Bigger one, like P15 is passive cooling, no fan inside.

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Worth noting…good point.

Do they ever disturb you?

My listening position is 9 feet away from P12, never notice the fan sound.
I would go for P15, if not for the size.

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Thanks for the follow up.

Cheers.

I also have a P12. I’m a little closer than Terrence, seven or eight feet away, and I never notice the fans. I also bought the P12 instead of the P15 because the latter wouldn’t fit in my rack.

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Thank You all for good advices and effort! Waiting for pp15 on weekends

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I have a PP12. Even with a hybrid 300W integrated amp and valve phono stage, it’s nowhere near full load.

The fans only ever run for a very short time when I power on (and not even each time), so the fans don’t bug me at all, even during listening at higher volume.

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ok here we go…
using Sine and need burn in. What’s is minimum time for the process? 50-100-200 hrs?

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Mine took about a week, 168 hours, before it became settled and consistent.

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Congrats!

Looking forward to you, hopefully, sharing your listening impressions.

Cheers.

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I hear somewhat “grey” timbre but very focused sound with good black background. Highs are less peaky even on higher volume compare to wall socket. Transients and separation are amazing
I’m very very hope timbre become more rich and natural.

24 hours burn in

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1 week passed, I’m happy with pp15. Great thing I can listen at any time during week without thinking “what sound will be today?”. Stability is most benefit of power plant…
Just ordered AQ monsoon cable

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just simple question which is not actual for US )) which pin L and N? Since EU has different outlets it easy to make it wrong… I use multimeter and measure on the body of unit, so pin on the left (on photo) is my L now… but most units has L opposite…

According to the instructions, L should probably be where the 10 A fuse button is. That would be the left pin as seen by you. I have a P10 and am happy with the performance so far. A different fuse makes a significant difference. How much does an Audioquest Monsoon cost? and how long? Should it be a supply line for the P15? Greetings Andreas

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I’ve bought monsoon 2 meters long on the aftermarket.
I had mid level power cords earlier but sold them and put regular “fat” PC cables before regenerator come to my system and it’s time to look back on AC cords now…

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