Shouldn’t the P10s capacitors handle large currents for short demanding portions of playback? If so why would bigger wire feeding the P10 matter if it never exceeds the rated capacity? If the P10 couldn’t handle quick high current loads then it would surely cripple an audio system and using it would be like adding a resistor to current delivery, which doesn’t seem to be the case. I know the P10 doesn’t have batteries but an analogy I’m thinking of is you can charge your Tesla with a super charger or a level 2 but the acceleration is going to be the same. This thinking is one of the reasons I haven’t rewired my house yet. It’s also a reason I haven’t changed the stock power cord for the unit. My plans have always been to add a dedicated circuit but my motivation has not been strong in part because I have the P10.
Those are all questions I can’t answer
Clearly I can’t either. But I have heard better power going in = better power coming out, I just don’t understand why based on what the regenerator does.
Me neither…except to the extent that (at least theoretically) inbound power is so “bad” the level of “corrected” results wrought by the regenerator is limited in some way.
That said, I never would have believed a fuse in a regenerator could make a difference either, until I replaced the one in my P10 with a copper rod (a/k/a “sluggo”) and inserted a Swiss Digital Fuse Box (a/k/a a breaker) in front of the PC that is feeding the P10.
This resulted in a clearly discernible improvement to the sound of my digital-centric system. The P10 serves my PSA DirectStream Memory Player and PSA DirectStream Senior DAC, as well as other components.
Regards.
It is absolutely preposterous to wrap your head around it.
Power Regenerator takes dirty power in.
Converts dirty power to clean DC
Converts clean DC to clean AC.
So with this in mind, how could the power cord to the power regenerator make a difference in sound? It is just delivering the dirty power in.
But this has been tested time and time again. And in each case, a very expensive power cord makes a quite audible difference.
In your situation though, when you go to Home Depot or wherever to buy Romex, you will likely have choices of what to buy. 14.3, 12.3, perhaps 10.3. I can see no reason whatsoever to go with 14.3 when the others are also available with a slight price increase. Just trust that the thicker conductors will serve you well.
I think what I’m going to do is install a dedicated 10 gauge wire to 20 amp circuit and use the PS Audio power outlet (currently installed in my system) then I’ll install the isolated outlet next to the “dirty” outlet. so that I can “A/B” compare them that will also allow me to keep my TV on the “dirty” circuit and not have it mess with my audio equipment. My guess is that I will see a difference on the input power and the output power, and based on other people’s experience I will likely hear a difference too. My system is fairly revealing so I am guessing I’ll notice the change… when I do this I’ll report back. I don’t think I’m going to run multiple breakers considering I just have one slot left in my 42 breaker-slot box. I’ll report results when this happens, but don’t hold your breath please! Also… has anyone tried hard-wiring a P10 or P20 and just deleting the dirty power cord?
Also, when I was installing the PS Audio outlet it felt really wrong attaching 14 gauge wire to it and then plugging in a much larger gauge power cord this will make things more right in the universe.
Part of the problem of trying to make sense of this question is the way it’s being asked. Logical, but without a complete picture.
The Power Plants are a combination storage tank and instantons delivery. That’s how they regulate the voltage so tightly. The heavier the “feedpipe” the easier/better the results. Maybe a good analogy is the car engine. Two cars, one with a big motor, the other with a small one. Both can do 90 miles an hour, one loafs along while the other strains at its limits.
Think of it more as a delivery service from the wall outlet with a big storage bank to fill in the deficits.
Thanks for taking time to explain as I know how busy you are. Great explanation and thanks for the feedback.
I can barely keep one plate spinning and you manage to keep a dozen going without any hitting the floor.
I enjoy what the power plants do so well that I have 3 of the P20 and 2 of the P12.
I said once before that I think you would get better toast if the toaster was plugged into one.
Enjoy your trip overseas and hopefully you have a productive show.
I think the analogy on power cords to power plants is the cord isn’t the last 3 feet of the mains circuit but instead ids the first 3 feet of the power supply to the stereo system. It’s completely unfathomable that the PC could make any sonic difference but they do.
The Power Plants are more of the same. It will be interesting to see what your experiment results are in your system.
Adding the 20 amp dedicated line to your gear is a relatively cheap upgrade as far as stereo bits go.
I just finished 3 of them using 10 gage 10-2 Romex and the good Hubbell outlets and I am at less than $750 all in.
The rationale is getting noise going out an RF drain. Put it in grounded metal conduit and the noise will not cross talk or pick up EMI. 10 guage wire is capable of 30 Amps breaker but to be to code one needs a 30amp wall socket you can only buy 20 amp duplex sockets. There are plenty of 10 gauge after market power cors none with 30 amp plug.
Couldn’t one use a 230v stove or clothes dryer outlet?
They make single 30amp 120volt outlets and plugs. It would be curios to mod an after market power cord or have one custom built. My McIntosh MC2500 amps have max current draw of 25 amps in their specifications to perform over rated power output. But they were also used for industrial shaker tables and submarine sonar as well as industrial sound systems running hundreds of speakers
I got the regenerator installed and it sounds really good. Or exactly the same LOL. Not sure yet but we r gonna give it a listen then in 3 weeks go back to the old power conditioner to see if there is a change. In the mean time I added a audioquest monsoon power cable
Lastly I got the dedicated 20 amp 10 gauge line with PS Audio receptacle installed. You can see the before and after pics above. The voltage came up and the THD came down at least 20%.
System sounds great and am very happy with the changes. In a few weeks we will know if all this stuff helped. Either way, I doubt I will return the regenerator as I like it either way. Stay tuned.
Big_C
Congratulations to your acquiring a new P20…a truly wonderful piece of
gear, as well as a dedicated line and upgraded power cable.
Do keep us updated when your are ready to switch back to your
“old power line conditioner” and hear the difference…
Would much like to read what you will have to say…
Thanks
Best wishes…
its the P15, and i dont think the watts ever exceeded 400 watts, so the 1500 watt P15 is more than adequate. system sounds amazing. I have had limited listening sessions as the wife keeps making me turn it down. However it sure seems better.
New additions:
P15 Regenerator
Audioquest monsoon power cable
Dedicated 20 amp 10 gauge line with PS audio outlet.
Im pretty happy with the above changes. Is sure seems like it sounds better. seems more open with a wider sound stage, maybe im hearing more stuff, stage seems wider. it just seems better, but may be in my head.
Either way im pretty happy with my system and dont plan any more updagrades for a while.
Im looking forward to getting some listening time in and switching to the old power stuff in a few weeks.
Hey Big_C
It ain’t no imagination…it is real!!
Enjoy your new toy!!
Best wishes