Sine or Multiwave function

I heard a rumor that there was network functionality to allow you to turn your regenerator off while you’re away away from home remotely. So, I bet they could easily add this function down the line as an update fairly easily.

That is a blind test which is what you want to do to see if you hear any differences. When you prefer one way or the other you simply check the front of the regenerate to know which is the setting that you prefer.

Thats actually a really good idea, I like that!

It’s counterintuitive but ive been liking ‘Sine’ over ‘multiwave’…but i can’t always tell a difference either way. I may not have a resolving enough system.

Sorry @sixpack1, it’s too awkward for me to twist around, lose my optimum seating position, and hope that I have the spongy-buttoned remote pointed just right to get anything to happen. I’d prefer a more direct approach. As I have no idea as to what any of these settings will do to the sound of my system, I can’t say I’ll be going into it with any sighted expectation bias.

When I designed my listening room I thought out the placement of the speakers and the equipment rack so I would get good access to the remote windows. This happens to also be in a null area to minimize the effects of the sound on the equipment. My equipment cabinet is midwall on the right side with a foundation that support the equipment racks that is isolated from the room floor. It is difficult when equipment is behind you to use the remote for sure. It is nice when you can remain seated in your listening position and make changes so you can hear any differences if they exist.


A post was merged into an existing topic: My View: Multiwave implemented in wrong way, peak not RMS ought to be maintained

As an aside:

IR to RF to IR converter works great through walls and certainly behind in the same room.

Or Harmony RF remote to ‘hub’ that outputs IR to three discrete outputs (4 if you count the remote itself). I’ve used this to avoid the overlap in IR codes between PSA and LG/Vizio.

Harmony isn’t perfect, though easier than the old Phillips from the late 90s, but once you adapt to their programmers logic one can make it do just about anything one can imagine.

All of my gear is behind a wall save for the amps and speakers so all of my Sine/Multi wave tests have been blind. I hear no difference SW/MW but the P10 reports lower output distortion and reduced watts when running MW so I do.

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Though I have not done extensive listening tests, I do not hear a difference
in MW/SW comparisons either on a P20. Nice to be able to switch via the remote
but hard to see on the unit for verification. Set and forget, for now.


I get surprised when I see that many/most of you listen to when you think your “PXX” sounds best and leave your SW/MW-setting there, which for most of you becomes a high number, often 6, while I myself haven’t cared at all about listening too when it sounds best because I just check the “Improvement Factor-meter” and use the setting where I get the absolute highest “Improvement Factor” since the whole point with a “PXX”, as far as I can understand, is to make your AC-power so clean and good as it’s possible and then automatically you’ll get the best sound from your “PXX” when you have found the best/highest “Improvement Factor” on the AC.

I just got P20 and setup using the auto tune and MW set for 3. I have a pair of large McIntosh MC2301 tube amps and at that setting out of the box, it blew my P10 away, which is no slouch. I don’t recall what setting I had on the P10, but using MW with a setting of 3 works excellent for me. Of course, I will experiment later but why, it sounds so good right now, and very quiet and dynamic.

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What many people seem to not be aware of is that multiwave leads to undervolting of most equipment.

Reason for this is that volt RMS remain the same for sine and multiwave, but multiwave is have “fatter” waves i.e. lower peaks, which is what charge rectifying filter caps, that create DC that feed into the operational electronics.

For multiwave level 6 this is around 10%. This change can be seen on the scope of the powerplant.

This can of course be compensated for by increasing the volt RMS out of the powerplant with same percentage.

So one other dimension to tweak and experiment with.

Most amplifiers should not have any problem with this, and bring them back to the voltage they were designed to operate on, but obviously at own risk.

I tried sine wave last nice on my two p20 pair. This morning when I powered the system back up my Aesthetix Janus was NOT at all happy with sine wave. Crazy amount of noise ( like a bad tube ), then I switched to multi and withing 6 seconds the unit was fine. Odd as hell

Do you hear a difference with MW+6 and V+2 vs sine?

In the end, this is all that matters. Any of the gear connected to a power plant will happily accept any voltage (range) it will output. They have to to survive ‘regular’ power supplied by the power company.

no, i cant hear any difference between muliwave and sine, also cant hear difference when compensating multiwave with higher RMS volt. But been able to measure that amplifier get more power before clipping, if I compensate voltage. Would be interesting to hear what other people find out.

Where I live (in Hong Kong) wall voltage tend to be rather low, just saw 217 volt in and 219 out on the power plant, for 220 to 240 v country, and clean, typically just over 1% THD. With multiwave equipment get a peak voltage similar to wall RMS voltage of just over 200 volt, which may not be great. Still dont hear any difference, but as I wrote, can measure.

Power plan on or off give a slight general improvement for me. I think people who have less clean power and people who run 110V gear see a bigger difference. A slight improvement is of course nice, and I like that i can remote control power on the amplfier, and have all automated with a logtech harmony.

And yes, correct, any volt a powerplant can output shouldnt put any equipent in danger.

All my equipment is connected to a P15 including 2 MC2301 mono tube amps. I use MW 4 and everything sounds wonderful with zero hum or any noise. My system is dead silent. But I recently bought a BHSE to drive my Stax SR009 and I connected the BHSE to the P15 like the rest of my equipment. The BHSE turns on, and after about 1 minute it’s fuses are blown. It happened twice. I plugged the BHSE to the wall and it functions perfectly. I haven’t tried using sinewave yet to see if the fuses will hold but I intend to try. But the MW definitely blows the fuses of my BHSE. Anyone with a similar experience?

This is interesting. Would be good to know what could cause that. Other than trying sine wave, perhaps it is worth trying having the MW, but with BHSE connected only and observe power usage. If it start climbing, perhaps MW causes some instability/oscillation of some sort in the BHSE. The fuse does the job luckily.

I’ve been using my P12 for about a month now (coming from an aging PPP that finally gave up its ghost…) and I’m between sine and MW+3. Sine seems to be more focused and punchier (which would go against what @Paul has been saying) but the MW+3 makes the sound just a bit sweeter and quite a bit wider and deeper albeit less in focus. Kind of front of the hall vs. mid-hall classical concert.

The nice thing is that it’s super easy to switch between them so I don’t have to choose. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


Before turning on the BHSE I always turn off the 2 amps. But to tell you the truth I’m a little afraid of trying new things. The fuses saved me twice. But what if they fail? I’ll call Justin from Headamp today to see what he thinks. Thanks.

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So what did Justin say? I also have a BHSE and Stax 009. I also blew a fuse on the BHSE, but it had nothing to do with the P5, it had to do (I think) with how quickly I was powering on the BHSE alongside other amps.

A similar occurrence but different piece of equipment, a preamp.

Recently my Emotiva XSP1 Gen 2 blew fuses not once but twice…and each time
happened when I powered up my Parasound A21…it was the SR Orange fuses.

I suspect it was the inrush of current to my amp that caused the fuses to go.

What type of fuses were you using?

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