The SR Blues are the best I’ve try. It beats the Blacks and HIFi Tuning Supremes I was using before in the DSD Dac, the DSD transport and preamp. It’s more natural and less distorted sounding than the others. Only 1 problem. It keeps blowing for no reason in my Aurender streamer.First one 2amp slow-blow, then the other 2amp slow blow. That’s $300 just like that. So far I’ve been lucky that the ones on the equipment are still good. I put back the HiFi Tuning Supremes in the Aurender and so far they’re working fine. I wonder if you’re suppose to get higher rated fuses like 2.5amp in place of a 2amp since the SR Blues seems rather fragile.
I would never exceed the design rating
My suspicion is that the manufacturing tolerances are incorrect. Many of these companies are very small and my suspicion is that that have a wide range and out of spec of either amp ratings, voltage or the speed of the blo rating.
I have always harbored this suspicion and have expressed it in the past.
Whether or not boutique fuses sound good - do they actually serve as fuses?
1 Like
I pulled the trigger, got Synergistic blue fuses (2A and 10A) for my BHK 300s. Out of the box, I think I hear more detail and deeper bass. Only ten hours so far. If burn in is real, (or just getting used to the sound.). But I can say for sure it’s not a step in the wrong direction.
I’d be more skeptical about burn in in general but I once heard a vary noticeable change in sound burning in a piece of gear long ago.
I’m actually uncomfortable saying this because it seems preposterous, but I changed the direction of my Syn Blue fuse in my BHK pre and the sound flattened out. Turned it back around and all the life came back.
I’ve never heard or read a convincing reason why that should happen.
How long to burn in if at all? I’ve got a new set in my BHK 300s. Sound is great. Or, my imagination is.
Stop already–Doesn’t need to be validated beyond your own auditory processing. Sounds better to you, then it’s better.
I think they sound better but I can’t say I heard any improvement over time that would suggest a burn-in period.
@RonP which direction do you have the fuse in?
Thanks
Back to front
@RonP so just to confirm reading left to right the “R” in “SR” goes into the amp or fuse cap?
Thanks
I think the heavy Blue fuse users, including myself, prefer the letters of the
fuse to follow the direction of the current. In other words if the signal flow is
from the back of the unit to the inside of the unit, as in PSA gear, the “S” is in
the fuse holder and the “R” is inserted into the unit.
1 Like
I could be wrong, but I don’t believe the printing on the fuse body is a reliable indication of fuse direction. Try it both ways and go with what sounds best. And if you can’t hear a difference, that’s ok too.
1 Like
Thanks!!!
Will do! Thanks @RonP I’ll at least try it first as @straightwire indicates above.
What about breaking capacity???
With regards to upgrading the fuses in the BHK 300, there are 3 types. A slow blow, high breaking, 2 amp T2AH250V, a slow blow high breaking,10 amp T10AH250V, and four fast blow, low breaking, 10 amp F10AL250V.
If I am trying to purchase SR Purple fuses, how do I pick the correct (H) High Breaking or (L) low breaking type? It does not mention this attribute at all. Those of you who upgraded, did you just pick out the correct size, amps and blow speed and skip the breaking capacity?
If I’m doing my math correctly and I’m definitely not a math expert. SR Purple fuses with the buy 2 get one free would cost $1600 for two BHK 300 amps. I love the idea of getting more from my equipment but $1600 dollars in fuses I don’t think I can justify. Paul’s Post today makes a lot of sense IMO.
3 Likes
Much better of spending that “upgrade” money on a cable–or some concerts–or a nice weekend away…
1 Like
I don’t think it should be the first thing you do. Perhaps better left later on down the road, when your system is almost complete, and the only other option would be to sell it all and go up to the next level, which with a BHK300 means you’re going super high $$$$.