@amsco15 - I always read the manual, cover to cover and do what you are doing before you buy. That way you got it covered. Sorry to bring bad news. I would call the dealer and see why they show a 120V connector w/ switch, the make that statement. Someone has a T7 they were saying it is not automatic… let me search and see if I recall the person… picture of a car exhaust…, and if they can add a switch…? REL customer service is great…
@amsco15 - I just IMed @scotte1about his T7 and if he has switch.
Amazing how hard some simple items are to track down accurately. I have a similar issue with thread types on the KEF Reference 1 stands. Pretty sure KEF told me the wrong thread size. I’ll find out soon enough.
Thanks Again!
All good, we’ll sort it out. I just pulled my BII and shipped it. To make sure the person had screws, I gave him mine. I put metal tape over the hole and when the cover got here (yesterday) I went down to Ace to get some 440/0.25in screws and they had just 0.5in. So, I cut them down with screw cutter and filed them to replace tape w/ cover.
I also had my crew ship me an ESD bag and ESD strap to make sure there were no ESD issues. I shipped it in ESD bag and made it clear they should use an ESD strap, just in case.
This is a full contact hobby!
@amsco15 - might be the manual is incorrect. After seeing a 110V plug w/ switch shown and the statement incorrect with respect to the picture… who knows…
@amsco15 - From the manual. I don’t see a switch for standby? Looks like the answer is no standby switch. You will either have to deal w/ hum, go to S3 or turn sub off.
@amsco15 - I would call REL and ask about their network (resistors) and see how that hooks up and will that solve the issue you might see. Some REL owners don’t hear the hum…
cardi, with your skill set it should be no problem to use the P20, and one of its zones as a on / off switch, along with a magic black box or two from Niles or another custom install supplier to make a system that will use the 12 volt on / off connections to make everything work as you would like.
@hlg3 - present: walk over to BHK300s and turn them off. Hum gone in 30min… Future: claptrap stuff to turn the RELs off.
Clarity of requirements. I never turn anything off, everything goes to standby and or ON. Only time OFF is when I go on VAC.
make sense?
I use a zone on the P20 to turn off my REL T9i’s with the off activity on my harmony learning remote. It does work a treat. I put the subs on one of the high current zones so I only switch off 2 outlets in the one zone instead of 4 in another.
The only issue is when I use strictly 2 channel and only turn the amp on I have to remember to turn the subs on
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@Veneet - Thanks for feedback on another approach. The P20 is excellent for doing that. However, I never turn any component OFF. So, no matter how you slice it OFF is never a mode I aspire to, unless VAC. The T9 does not have standby so doing what you are doing is a great way to go… @amsco15 may go that route, now we find out he has no standby on the T7.
The good news for me is that I never thought to turn the BHK300s to standby and just put up w/ hum for 30min, then the REL S3 would auto sense and go to standby… this saves me a walk back into the music room every evening and a lot of tube hrs doing what I was doing.
Well everything is a trade off. I have receptacles on a dedicated circuit right where I’d set up both subs. I do have a P20 and could use that but I wanted to keep the cabling short and simple. Don’t see where subs would benefit much from the P20. I’ll work on it. Have lots of time. Thanks all.
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If you guys will run a thin wire from the black wire on the REL wiring harness to a chassis screw on the P20 or a grounding point on any other piece of gear your hum problems will go away.
@dawkinsj - mine did not, adding the REL network, it did not… this approach for me solved the on and REL standby. However, @amsco15 should try this, some found it solved the problem.
If properly grounding the ground wire on the amp side of the REL wiring harness did not work then something else is going on. The connecting of a SE cable from an unused preamp input to the LFE on the REL should also work. My method just keeps all the wiring at floor level.
The BHK components would just be put into standby. The subwoofers could be turned to a true off, I know you don’t like that. They are Class D amplifiers, and your habit of turning them on a while before you start listening will be plenty of warmup time.
@hlg3 - I don’t like that, you are right. I have a solution that satisfies my requirements. It is very, very, easy. What someone else does, I don’t care. However, thanks for your viewpoint, it adds to the dialog.
I have a pair of REL S3 and PS Audio BHK 250 the hum was an issue forever. I thought it was a weird ground loop, so I built an equal length power cable with enormous conductors in them for power and then tried isolating the power while keeping the cables separated but still hum. So I purchased the PS Audio BHK grounding kit but still hum. Last night I built a REL Grounding cable network with a pair of 2K, 1/2 watt 1% resistors and Duelund wire…was a bit uneasy about clamping a pair of 2K resistors from positive/negative terminal to the PS Audio Ground lug but after measuring the resistance to ground much less than 1K I figured it was not going to do much. There was zero effect on sound quality but there is ZERO…lets say that again ZERO HUM…I am so pleased thanks to the FORUM for all the insight and to Rachel at REL for the info.
Hello everyone, can i send the REL earth wire to another component? I am thinking I could connect the earth wire to my marantz AVR to kill the hum.
If you connect the .1/LFE RCA to your AVR .1/LFE that should kill the hum. No need to use the earth wire.