Bi-wire vs single wire

This way i use my Siltech LS 2-90 single wires to drive Martin Logan Spires:

Accidentally stumbled upon a fair priced ex-demo unit Crystal Cable Crystalspeak Reference Diamond which arrives tomorrow :grinning: Unfortunately not bi-wire, however on behalf of Crystal Cable’s practical feature this will only be temporary…


So all i need for now is a pair of these…:slightly_smiling_face:

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Let me know how you like these. I’m currently all Siltech, the sister company.
My new to me speakers, arriving on Friday and one of my dealers has a new Reference run available. I’m currently Bi-Wired and the new speakers require single run.

@rower30 and Bob - do you guys end up with scraps at the factory that might be suitable for jumpers? I.e. bare wire ends - no connectors, that are suitable for stuffing in the hole of the binding posts?

Great question. Although I’ve been pretty thrilled with how my speakers have improved using the barebones naked copper jumpers, I have noticed a downside. It maybe that they need to break-in, but the top end isn’t as smooth compared to when I was bi-wiring.

Still need to try a fully optimized bi-wiring setup.
Cables from the same manufacturer, and of equal length.

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My speakers are triwire capable. The iconoclast speaker cables sound best hooked to the HF posts and jumpering to MF and LF posts. If you look at Galen’s papers the Iconoclast address HF best. My jumpers ate gold plate flatbars. I always wanted to try the Silver Cardas jumpers. But need four total.

I am connecting the speaker cables to the high frequency binding posts then using the jumpers to connect the bass section. I can hear a difference in the high frequencies depending on what jumpers I’m using.

badbeef,

We COULD assemble a six inch or so shorting STRAP with sonic welded locking banana plugs to short between posts. Then you would attach your speaker cables with spades. This would give a 10 AWG braided ICONOCLAST polarity as a shorting strap. It would bend across the minor axis easily enough.

Spades isn’t really a good idea as the “strap” is polarized to bend one way and won’t be conducive to making a shorting strap. Banana can make a nice “U” shaped jumper with ICONOCLAST polarity leg.

We’d have to price them as the labor is still intense as the length between the ends doesn’t make it any easier to do. But yes, we can likely do it. Any volunteers to try them out?

Scrap? We don’t make any scrap! :grin:

Best,
Galen Gareis

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Seems overkill-ish, except possibly for the terminally cable-fixated/very high end applications. I was thinking more something to fit through the holes in the posts. Hard to see here, but if I removed the strap, and the spade was laying flat, I’d have a pretty good-sized hole to put wire through.


Easiest, most straight forward, IMO.

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Is this in the way of commentary?

The only problem I see with dong jumpers this way, is that the wire keeps the spades from making full contact within the binding post.

I was thinking the spade goes on the bottom and the wire holds it down

For sure - but if they’re $1k a pair, or even for two pair, seems like a lot to me for the purpose, except as noted above.

Either way, the wire will keep the spade from making full contact, either on the front or the back.

Would Tri Wire be feasible? My XR290s have the flat plate gold plated jumper through the hole in the posts. I currently place the spade below it.

I would need a cost estimate prior but would be willing if not too outlandish.

Also get that, however I’d assume it would be a big bunch of bare strands that the nut would mash down on. And they could be wrapped around and through. Maybe I’ll just open the thing up and wire them together internally…:man_shrugging:t2:

I guess the thing we need is WW Platinum jumper plates.

Gary, you need to get back on the 12-step program! You have access to my PM. I am here waiting, I can talk you down off the ledge ; )

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At least my pocketbook hasn’t taken a hit, experimenting with different scraps of wire to use as jumpers. It could develop into a more serious problem though. Might need to check myself into rehab.

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Stranded wire would work better for getting things clamped tighter, compared to the solid wire I’m using.
Platinum jumper plates would be better yet.

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I have no idea why Martin Logan says to put the red (+) on treble, on black (-) on bass for a 2-way system OR put both wires on the treble for a 3-way.

Over the years, I’ve tried every possible combination of jumpers and wiring on a multitude of loudspeakers in different systems in different environments, bookshelves, towers, 2-ways, 2.5-ways and 3-ways, even a pair of 4-ways that had 3 pairs of binding posts (bass, mid, treble) and with ALL of them, the best sound produced was with the red on the treble and black on bass.

Of course, in the end it all boils down to what sounds best to you.