I want to use the doodlebug. It only has a mini USB 3.0 input connection. going out I am using Cardas Clear HI-speed cable. Does the lower quality of the cable going in make any difference? I am guessing not. Since it provides linear power and in itself is a galvanic isolator? Or would it be better to use something that accepts USB ‘B’ input so I can use a Cardas cable into it? This is with DS Senior.
I am very impressed with JCat usb isolator. I bought it recently to add galvanic isolation to my system (between Aurender streamer and Lyngdorf TDAI 3400 digital amp). No problem with cables (Type-B on PC-side, Type-A on device-side). Tiny little black aluminium box, German made Intona galvanic isolation circuit inside. Wery well made usb connectors. Plug and play design. And first of all, it simple works well. Brought better resolution and dark background to my system (already very dark and clean). As far as I know, they do free worldwide delivery… Highly recommended.
Why would you need to “clean” a USB signal coming out of an (expensive, super highend) Aurender…???
Good to see you, rkosak! It has been a good while.
Well, it is not so simple with “highend” Aurender. I have Aurender N100H, which is their basic, usb only model. And believe or nor, usb output is not perfect clean in this model. Basically, I have purchased usb isolator because I was curious if it would have ANY audible effect and I was ready to send it back if there was no effect. Anyway, it is interesting, that some highend audio companies consider galvanic isolation as an big upgrade. For example Auralic Aries G2 is upgraded from first generation (Aries femto) in many ways, but Auralic CEO said (in some interviews) that galvanic isolation has biggest impact to sound quality upgrade. So I purchased this unit and it has quite noticeable effect. Definitely audible difference. Honestly I have not expected such effect. As if I put some top end cables to my system. And yet, I have already good system, so in any computer based digital chain it would have even bigger effect.
PS: I have iFi Merury usb cable from Aurender to JCat and Audioquest Carbon usb cable from isolator to Lyngdorf amp…
Well, that’s good to know @rkosak, since I am looking for one of those W20’s in the used market. But this sorta changed my mind…
Aurender has no doubt great streamers, but I cannot afford higher models (at least not for now), this “tweak” is not so expensive (375€ is in price range of any good digital cable) and it is capable to “upgrade” sound quality quite considerably. Google it, this particular device is one of the best standalone galvanic isolation for usb…
Yes, but do you have the cable that came with the Intona going into it or an aftermarket cable?
As I already wrote, from streamer TO JCat (intona) isolator I use “iFi Mercury” usb cable (so not JCat usb cable) anf FROM isolator there is “Audioquest Carbon” in my setup. Basically you should use better usb cable after isolator. There is NO usb cable comming with isolator, you have to purchase separate one. JCat usb cable should be very good according to reviews, some reviewers claim that JCat USB cable is one of the best usb cable available.
You kind of answered my question. I was just wondering if you could use a “low quality” cable from the streamer to the Isolator? Good cable after the Isolator.
See I have no choice with the Doodlebug. It uses Mini split USB 3.0 connector. AFAIK there are no high quality cables of this type. Just to sweeten the sound The very first thing out of the streamer is the AQ Dragontail. which will plug into this “cheap” cable. The Doodlebug is very good. They sell for $350 built. I am not sure why it has this connection.
Please disregard. PSU does not fit either. I require a different Isolator. I will get one with ‘B’ cable input so I can use a good cable.
I started looking in the basement. I found Igalvanic and IUSB 3.0 with 2 Mercury cables.
Powering with Uptone JS2. Sounds fantastic. It did make an improvement. So this is taken care of.