Just a thought if you are up for an experiment.
Preferably for a late night session when electrical grid demand is lowest listen to your system with all loads on the circuit running. Then unplug or turn off all loads not required for listening, even items idiling on the Power Plant. I found a ceiling fan and light fixture specifically introduced considerable noise. It was a three speed Hunter ceiling fan. The experiment won’t cost you much other than a dram or two of Talisker.
The key here is a dedicated circuit with no unnecessary loads on it. While providing for a dedicated circuit it is best to optimize the conductors, grounding and outlets.
I prefer Bruichladdich but I get your point. I have a dedicated line so I feel lucky (although it requires a 6m power cord).
OK 1 more question on this point.
Almost all electricians I have spoken to have asked why i was going with a 10 gauge wire instead of a 12
I didnt know better 
so i said lesser noise and impedance
Is 10 gauge the go vs 12 gauge - if yes why ?
Also how long is it going to take for the copper to burn in (approx)
@weedeewop - i was listening to. some music when i read your suggestion. So i unplugged the TV, the cable set top box from the wall socket. I felt more silence all of a sudden.
One thought for burning in a new dedicated circuit is to run a space heater from the new outlets. Should you do this remain in the room for the first 30-60 minutes just in case the electrician did not get the outlet terminations tight enough.
Most electricians will push back on using 10 gauge wire for a 20 amp circuit as it is a bear to work with, and as said earlier terminating 10 gauge wire on a 20 amp outlet is difficult. It can be done.
#10 wire is less resistance on current flow than #12 wire, and it just plain sounds better. I have try the comparison before in my own circuits. #8 might even be better than #10 although I haven’t try that directly, but I did take a #8 circuit from the old electric strove outlet and spliced it with #10 wire to form an audio circuit for my brother and he was thrilled with the improvement to his audio system. The stove is gas so didn’t need the electrical circuit.
It is similar to speaker cables with large current flow. Bigger wires of the same quality just plain sounds better than some thin wire.
The better the start source, the better the end source. A dedicated line takes other house items off of your circuit.
So if I do not have any lights on, fan not running and move my modem and router to another house circuit I would then have a dedicted circuit just like a separate run? The only thing I would have plugged in would be the power cord from the Power Plant.
You still have the terminations from the intervening loads. A dedicated circuit would only have the outlets supply your audio system. What are your thoughts on the experiment I offered? It would give you a general idea of the potential benefit. At that point you can decide if it worth the effort to pursue it.
Thanks. And I guess that’s the issue as I am very happy with what I hear now with the PP. I never use the fan and the lights are on only momentarily when needed. When the 3-speed Hunter fan is on I can hear it’s low motor hum clearly at the lowest speed and the added air movement noise at higher speeds is definitely unacceptable. I have unplugged the modem and router while listening some time ago to see if made a difference and i could not hear any improvement. Maybe there would be a reduction in HF noise picked up from the circuit wiring itself action as an antennae of sorts. But might not make an audible difference to me. And the room is on the second floor while the breaker panel is in the basement two floors below. So the cost of a dedicated line would be rather expensive. But thanks for the advice and all the interesting and informative comments.
I have dedicated power-line to my stereo and in the small village I live in (350 people) nothing becomes/sounds better when I use my dedicated line instead of a “normal” line.
After I’ve put in a Power Plant 15 I did get better sound so if you want to do something with your AC to get better sound, buy a P15…if you have the money of course.
“Bigger wires of the same quality just plain sounds better than some thin wire.”
I’m a Nordost-lover and couldn’t disagree with you more.
Of course it’s not just the size of the conductor. The purity of the conductor and insulation also plays a part. I recently got some Tara Labs The One speaker cables and it just blew me away with the sound quality. I got Cardas, FM Acoustic, Tranparent, Audioquest, and Nordost Valhalla speaker cables before and none came close in sound quality. Of course Tara Labs makes different models with less conductors and others with more conductors. Generally the more the conductors, the more expensive, the better the sound. Otherwise they would not be able to sell the bigger cables if it didn’t perform better. All their models uses 8n rsc copper conductors, only the higher end models uses more of it.
Apologies to echoz and all, I recommended 8 gauge, should be 10, to be used in a dedicated circuit without checking last years recommendations, and also what I am using. My poor memory.
I have edited my previous reply’s to avoid confusion.
Chas
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@1cdfoley - thank you because no 20A duplex to date I have encountered would accept 8ga, max is 10ga… was going to comment; however, thought you might have done something with a custom duplex. The cost of my (2) separate room runs from panel was only $400 labor and I bought the materials. My (2) SR BLUE duplexs’ cost more than the line runs… I looked into 8ga cause it is cost effective to run; however, what stopped me was the duplex max size and I was not going to step down the wire size in a connection inside another box. I also used dielectric greese at the panel, making sure of great contact. I even went as far as seeing if a 20A CB could handle 8 ga and no it could not…
No apologies needed - thanks for sharing your experience.
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Just a quick comment about this, you could always pig tail it. That is, use a short #10 or #12 connected to the terminals of the receptacle and then splice in the #8s using wire nuts (btw #10 connections on a standard receptacle are tough enough to make). You would need a deep (and relatively uncrowded junction box), but it would theoretically work and be National Electrical Code compliant (assume the circuit is protected by a 20A circuit breaker). It’s all a little too on the crazy side for me to worry about but…
EDIT: Cracks me up thinking about A/Bing #8 branch circuits vs #10s.
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@amsco15 - I was not interested in an interrupted run, wanted CB to duplex… however, understand the point you are making and it is valid. yeah going 12ga to 10ga at 100ft was ~1.5mohms reduction in resistance…
I figured. Just throwing it out there. You could also A/B if a wire nut in the circuit makes a difference 
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@amsco15 - there are no wire-nuts. However, they would make a difference… very, very small difference. I thought of going spliced 8ga to 10 ga; however, both sides on a 65ft run would be close to what I saved going 10ga to 8ga… thought about it and started to analyze and said… you know what… stick w/ 10ga…
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