That’s not correct about MW strength “4.” Level 4 is the strength that Multiwave was in the models without adjustable Multiwave. In the P10 you can select 1, 2, and 3 which are lower strengths, and 5 and 6 which are higher strengths than were possible in earlier models.
I have a P10. It only has good ol’ fashioned manny tune.
I hear no difference in MW levels. When I change from sine to mw6, the current meter on my amp will react momentarily, then return to it’s original position. That’s the only way I can tell something has actually happened. I’m assuming that the amps’ power supply has something to do with it’s responsiveness to mw.
I wonder if one of our experts can shed some light here? I’m curious. And curiosity, more than anything is what winds up costing me money.
Thank you @bootzilla for the poll
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With Snowmass 3.0.6, I now like multiwave 4 better.
I am also in the (unenviable) category of “can’t tell a difference” in MW
settings. I have been changing gear a lot and may try it again. Funny how
Auto Tune can recommend different settings in a short period of time.
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The manufacturer of my amp, (Nelson Pass) told me that the more robust your amplifier’s power supply, the least likely it is to be affected by changes in mw. (He used different and technical words than I used; “robust” was my distillation of his explanation)
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My favourite setting is “MW Strength 4” with “Phase Tuning -2”
I’ve changed my mind now.
I’ve seen that I get the best values from my P15 if I use “MW Strength” 3 & use “Phase Tuning” -3
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again - I wish these settings could be performed from the web url. It seems completely counterproductive to me to have to get up, walk over the my P15, get on the ground, fiddle with the settings, and then sit myself back down all in an attempt to hear what may be subtle changes. Yes, long term listening is the way, I know, but making critical changes like this should be easier. A first world problem.
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I’m using 3.06 on the DSD and 3.15 on the DMP. I recently re-addressed my isolation “tuning” on the system and am able to forego the treble cut circuit on my amps for the first time and now find my best P10 settings to be “High Regulation” and “0” for Phase tuning and MultiWave of “1.”
MW can be turned on and off and it’s strength adjusted from the remote on the P20.
Oh, I know that. But you (or at least I) can’t see what it’s set to without moving from my listening position. It’s a little annoying.
Agree
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But it naturally makes the comparison blind
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Too ineffective. Can’t do Phase Tuning from the remote (near as I can tell), making (even if you wanted to) finding the best option via blind selection incomplete.
In this case, I would argue (at least for me) that blind comparison is unnecessary for certain reasons. First, I have no freaking idea what Multiwave does, so I have no expectation bias for one setting vs. another. Second, one Multiwave setting doesn’t look any prettier to me than the other, so there’s not much in the way of visual bias. 
yeah, sorry, I should have added the tounge-in-cheek emoticon 
I find spending a few minutes drawing with pencil and nice, heavyweight paper helps me not view things so literally
S’okay, Brett. I’m not a DBT acolyte, but I find there are some cases where a blind comparison can be interesting. I once built a dedicated, parallel wired four outlet test box to test four different outlets I was interested in. I didn’t do it blind myself, but wrote down all my impressions. After I was done some weeks later I called my audio buddy and had him listen blind. He had no idea what I had been doing on my own the previous month, and had no clue of my impressions. He listened while I did the swapping, not knowing which outlet was being used at any given time. When he was done telling me what he thought it was right in line with my own assessments.
Now back to our regularly scheduled topic. 
You can change the MW Strength with the remote but it’s a pity that can’t also change the Phase Tuning with the remote…or can you and I’ve just missed it?