I find that sometimes the Oppo can get a bit confused, and reboot will fix it.
If it’s working now, all good.
I’ve noticed that, but in this case it apparently needed restart on both ends.
Update on my situation.
The high pitched whine was due to a set of ports on my P20. Swap to another port and the whine is gone. I reached out to my dealer and he’s getting in touch with PS Audio Monday. The P20 I received was supposed to be brand new but looked used (dirty handles) with an opened remote and warped bottom plate—that whole part was getting sorted, but now I learn a set of ports is causing high pitched whining on the Oppo. Hoping I can get this swapped out ASAP.
The blinking power was solved by switching the PWR jumper to 1-2. I visually traced the PCB when I had it out and it’s got a bunch of stuff between HDMI PIN18 and the PWR jumper. I chatted with Jaehong and he suggested removing the fuse FB2 to prevent any of the downstream components from introducing HF noise. I picked up a soldering iron and will take care of it this weekend.
Thanks everyone for all your help!
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I am super curious about this sound coming from the port, which outlets did you move from/to on the P20
It’s the Zone A column that was problematic. High pitched whine when the Oppo was turned on and not playing a disc.
I plugged it into zones B and C to test and neither zone had the whine.
Thanks Vee!
That’s pretty odd since all the ports on the P20 are in parallel. Aside from the high current ports which have a small thermistor in series, there’s zero difference between ports.
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Paul, you’re right. I stand corrected and my issue hasn’t been solved. Argh. I just did another test and the high pitched whine is still there even though I switched from Zone A to Zone B.
The troubleshooting continues.
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There were a few units with one brand of capacitor that “sings” under load so quiet when not feeing anything then singing when things are connected. If that’s the case this can be replaced in the field.
The feeing cap that
Sang under load so quiet
Was changed in the field
-Paul-shō
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Highstream,
I’m curious if you have the int/ext jumper on your I2S card set to ext or not? It really needs to be set to ext to avoid all of the weird power backfeed issues.
How would backfeed manifest itself? I’d have to pull things apart to check, but although I haven’t heard much difference from coax in sound there hadn’t been any functional problems until last week. The problem of no sound with I2S returned yesterday and didn’t solve itself overnight, like last time.
I assume Ext/Int refers to power source, but please remind me on what basis I would have decided in setting it up. I remember the ribbon cable hook up, but forget if that’s power or signal. If the latter, then I assume mine is set to external. Thanks,
Update: See what I found, a couple of posts down.
The symptoms of having both boxes fighting on the 5V line can be very different depending on the exact voltage on each side. At the very least it will probably affect sound quality (one more wire to conduct noise from one box to another and the noise is usually worst on a power line.)
The one that’s providing the higher voltage is trying to power both devices. If the source device is higher and it can’t provide an amp or so of current that the DS uses at 5V, its supply will sag until the voltages even out - this could cause overheating if the source’s supply in linear and could cause more noise if the sources side uses a switch mode power supply. This problem is somewhat mitigated by the polyfuse in the DS that limits the current, but (like all fuses) the amount of current that’s allowed to flow depends is different from fuse to fuse and is also based on temperature and other things.
When the DS is turned off and the source isn’t then you are torturing the DS, the processor will keep trying to boot the DS but there’s isn’t enough current available so at some point the current draw will get large enough to cause the voltage to drop too much and when it comes back up the processor will try to boot the DS… The display may or may not have enough current to flicker…
In spite of what posts 204-209 say about using 1-2, when I opened the case just now the SW1 setting was on 2-3. I switched it to 1-2. Why is that better? I do notice in that position the mid range is a little more forward and 2-3 clicks higher in volume than the coax run.
I found the apparent problem with I2S. I have an SSD hooked up to one of the Oppo’s two back USB ports. It seems one of them is not working properly, specifically not playing at all when the DS remote is set to I2S. That’s with the Oppomod card SW1 set at external (1-2); as I previously reported, DSF files did play with it set at internal (2-3). Right now, with 1-2 chosen, the other USB ports are playing all types of files with I2S.
Overall you are safest to have this switch set to external (whichever position that is). Otherwise your Oppomod card will be backfeeding your DS.
In my personal experience having it set the other direction can manifest as what I like to call the “ghost lights” from the DS as the display flashes on and off with the power switched off.
Frankly the first time that I saw this happen on my DS I was very afraid that I might have fried a chip inside of my DS. And while I have been lucky so far, I definitely do not want to keep testing my luck by leaving this jumper set to internal!
I’ll go with what Ted has said, had this exact issue, with the blinking DS display, and setting the jumpers correctly fixed it.
The theory’s sound, set the jumpers how they should be.
Ted - I’ve got the Oppomod board now switched to external power, i.e., the DS? One thing you wrote leads to a question: if I’m running the Oppo on its own to burn in a cable, is that doing harm to the DS if its left off (by remote)?
If I understand you correctly, no, there is no issue with DS inputs being active when the DS is in standby or when it’s turned off with the back power switch. The only issue is having the I2S inputs providing power to the DS while the DS is powered off with the back switch (which also messes up trying to upgrade the DS.)
Yes, I was asking about getting a signal while in standby mode, when the DS has been powered down with the remote, the back switch still on and the unit getting power. Thanks.
I’m confused -the pinout diagrams I’ve seen don’t have the DS providing voltage (on pin 18), but this response seems to indicate that it does. I also don’t like the idea of the DS power supply being used supplying power to the I2S card. Wouldn’t blocking 18 somehow and having the card power itself be the best option?