I need a server, NOT a streamer

While I don’t have any experience with either cable, I might suggest considering going pure USB anyway. These may eliminate noise or interference in the cable itself, but the terminations may allow just as much (or more) distortion as a comparably priced USB-exclusive cable.

I feel bad about asking this, but where is the icon on the screen? I’ve been using JRiver for years and don’t recall this icon being mentioned. Seems like something I should’ve known … I did search the JRiver forum and found references to it but no mention of where it is. I will say I avoid the JRiver forum like the plague, I always have great difficulty finding an already asked question/answer, the search function is way too literal (e.g., if I put “icon for bitperfect” in the search box I get swamped with results with just “for” in the post). I could ask a “stupid” question on that forum, but I don’t want to be belittled for not “knowing”.

One other thing, you mention streaming Qobuz direct to the Bridge, it appears you are using Bubble to do this, correct? Unlike Spotify, I don’t see a way to go direct to the Bridge from the Qobuz app. I’m a new Qobuz user and don’t really like using the MControl app. I should add that based on your recommendation of the StarTech USB cable I will finally get a long enough one (10’) to try from the listening seat. I’ve been avoiding USB for serious listening just because so many folks think it needs all those “crutches” to sound good. Oh, and I like the Bridge.

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Why feel bad?

It’s in the upper right corner of the UI. Be aware, when it’s blue, it means there is no processing occuring EXCEPT possibly volume, so if you want TRUE bit-perfect output, you would either keep volume at 100, or disable volume completely in options.

I haven’t tried the Qobuz app to Bridge, since I already have/use Bubble off and on. I actually only signed up for Qobuz on trial to try it for someone else that was asking about my Iancanada build because I didn’t do internet streaming at the time. I was planning on cancelling at the end of the trial, but liked it enough to keep going with it.

I’ll try the app when I get home later today to see if the app sees the Bridge and will let you know.

Edit: For whatever reason, the devs at JRiver do not consider “volume” as a “destructive” process because it happens in a 64 bit environment. That is why they excluded software volume changes from the blue indicator.

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That’s a great question. I don’t know about the button either.

Which version of JRiver are you using? I’m on the latest, 28, and I don’t see that button, though it does look familiar. Perhaps I’m in the wrong “view” or it was removed from later versions. I will say I have purposely not used any processing to keep the signal bitperfect as determined by Ted’s bitperfect tracks (available on the PS Audio site under Support/Downloads).

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I pay for the update about every other two or three versions. Right now, I run 28 on both PC and Pi. That pic is just from the internet (from a JRiver post), as I am not home right now - but I do know it’s there on mine. It’s been on every ‘factory’ skin I’ve used, BUT I’ve been installing them as updates - not fresh installs, so my settings have always stayed the same.

I THINK you have to right click on the bar and you get an option list on what you want to appear on the bar. For example, I turned off the cheesy (to me) bar graph that shows the level by frequency that you see in the snapshot.

When I get home and check the Qobuz app for the Bridge, I’ll also check JRiver.

Forgot to mention (again…) as stated, the blue only indicates the SOFTWARE is sending the data bit-perfect (as long as volume is @ 100 or disabled), but you also need to make sure there is no hardware processing of the volume through Windoze. But if you’re using, for example, PS Audio ASIO driver, it will be so (or WASAPI exclusive) as long as sound processing is disabled in your Windows setting.

Also, if the bit-perfect test is saying it’s passing through OK, it really is redundant to have the icon. I only check the icon if I play with settings to make sure it’s still passing correctly - otherwise I don’t even notice it.

Most of the time, I don’t even care if I already know it’s processing correctly since I use either JRemote or BubbleUpnp to control it, so run either PC or Pi headless (no monitor). I only use the monitor (which is on an HDMI switch so I can switch back and forth between PC and Pi) if I play with settings, add to the library, etc.

With the Pi, I can run headless AND see what I would see with the monitor on using VNC, which connects to the Pi and simulates what you would see if you were staring at a monitor. One could also log into a Pi using SSH, but VNC is visual, which I prefer.

Hi @tom.brewer - I think by now, those questions had been answered. I know one response says to use newest computer gear with high cpu power- but I will offer a counter-intuitive approach.

(NUC is basically any computer- you can reuse old laptops, etc- whatever you have that is i3 gen 5 or better would work very well- and such that it does not make actual (fan) noise. I like it a lot because it is 5x5x3- which is ridiculously small!
To have a server with a local disk is quite easy and inexpensive- Jriver is desirable because it is a one time cost of less than $35. I ran MC22 (about 6 years old) up until this year when I upgraded to MC28- so software is quite stable.
To keep it simples (KISS!) - start with a dedicated small HD with your music- and software of your choice (JRiver for example)- set it up to play via USB to a DAC in your stereo. Make sure to load the DAC’s driver- favor ASIO driver (many DAC provide different drivers which JRiver will see in the Options/playback). Turn off any locking and sleep (otherwise, you get weird interruptions and you have to go and reactivate the computer). Don’t fret over the advanced settings for now- just make it play music first. Software typically haver a way to auto-import from a folder (hence a dedicated HD or folder where it will find all the music).
I recommend lower type CPU Chips- because, it runs on lower power- hence less noise (fan never have to run to punt the heat away). You don’t need a lot of cpu power (contrary advice from others)- because all you are doing is reading a (presumably small) file to player (e.g. Jriver), and have it get sent to USB out - this takes very litttle processing power. Avoid running programs in the background - so disable any unwanted services from running unless you also use it as a general purpose computer.
Once you get comfortable. Then play with advanced settings like playing to different devices (start with playing to any DLNA device you may have in the house).

So I piddled around with the settings, and I believe it’s always there. It’s called the “audio path” icon, BUT I noticed it doesn’t turn blue on all skins. On some skins, you have to hover over the icon to see that no change is occurring:

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With the Noir skin or Black on Black skin (which is what I use), it turns blue - but you can also get the same drop down by hovering over the icon:

From Noir skin
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From Black on Black skin (that I use):

I downloaded the Qobuz app, and I don’t see ANYTHING that would allow you to set a renderer/player on the network other than the device itself. This is with the Android app.

I also downloaded the Windows app, and I can set it to play to whatever is connected to the computer (for example USB Wasapi or ASIO - but not a network device such as the Bridge.

As stated previously, BubbleUpnp can not only connect to Qobuz (or Tidal) but can play to itself, and can find both Jrivers (on PC and Pi) and Bridge all as separate renderers. JRiver can also play to the Bridge over the network.

If the Android app is able to scan for network players, point me to where it is in the settings and I’ll try.

TAK1313, lots of good information, thanks! I wasn’t using a Skin as I hadn’t set that feature up. In the base mode the icon that turns blue is not there, it’s a different set of icons! Now that I have set a Skin, I like the Noire one, I see the icon and discovered it doesn’t do anything when streaming. When I switched to a local file it still wasn’t blue. I checked the settings and it was a direct path since I had selected Direct Sound rather than WASAPI. Didn’t realize this wasn’t bitperfect. I think I was having trouble when I first installed MC28 and changed from WASAPI to Direct Sound in a desperate attempt to get music out the other end. Obviously has been a while since I ran the PS Audio bitperfect test. :flushed:

With respect to Qobuz, I’m pretty sure you have use another program/app to send to the Bridge. I use an iPad for most of my controller tasks, but I do have a Windows laptop. When I get the longer USB I will try the laptop to see if the “experience” is any better. Also, I’ve never used Bubble so I may have to give that a try too. Oh boy, a new learning curve!

O.K., fellas…I have JRMC MK 26xxxxx. Where do I go in the options menus to find skin settings?

I have a hunch I will also like “Noir”, since I run in a “black mode” here on the forum and with Roon.

TIA.

View>Skin>pick the skin you want to try

Thank you.

I guessed wrong. Gonna run with “Modern Cards: Dark Edition” for a while.

Best regards.

You need to make sure either DSP is off or all the settings are “as original.”

Tools>Options>Audio>Settings>DSP and output format

You either need to uncheck Output Format or make sure all the sample rate settings are set to “no change.”

In windows sound setting, you want to make sure it’s set to WASAPI exclusive and Windows sound setting is set to NOT resample - otherwise Windows resamples to a default of 48khz.

If you are going PC>USB>DS, many claim PS Audio’s ASIO driver sounds better. I’m not going to get in to the ASIO v. WASAPI debate here, but TO MY EARS, ASIO does sound cleaner. IN THEORY, it shouldn’t though as long as you are running WASAPI exclusive so the OS and other software can’t hijack the audio devices unnecessarily while JRiver is running - of course choosing WASAPI or ASIO to DS in Tools>Options>Audio Device. Exclusive mode is set in Windows sound setting.

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Thanks Onusconsulting. You know, it’s interesting how things,sometimes, can get blown way out of perspective at times. If you look at my original post, I was asking, what I thought was, a simple question.

“FYI, I have a PS Audio GainCell DAC.
Now, my question(s). I would like to place the server in another room, if possible. But, that creates connectivity problems, as I think USB would be easiest.
If I put the server on the rack with the audio equip, a simple cable with do it.
If I put the server in another room, what’s my best option for this connectivity. I have Ethernet available to my LAN. Is there a USB extender, over Ethernet, that would work? Or is there a better solution?”

I am currently thinking to upgrade my existing server (needs upgrading anyway) with a Gigabyte mother board with a USB-DAC port on it. Then getting a USB extender to reach up to the PS Audio GainCell DAC that has a USB input port.

Please remember the K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) theory.

You asked about connectivity options but don’t appear interested in moving away from USB as your primary means of transmitting (at least initially) the 1s and 0s to your Hi-Fi.

If that is the case, your options for keeping the computer/server in another room are somewhat limited.

No offense intended, but several folks have attempted to provide you with other options; and you just don’t strike me as open to actually considering the potential advantages of what was proffered in response to your query.

In any event, good luck with the search for a fitting solution. There is no “right way” to enjoy this hobby and the music.

Cheers.

[Edit/PS: My apologies if I have misread/misunderstood you, here.]

No one knows your situation better than you, as only we can give advice based on our experience. I suspect you have a strong idea of the direction you’ll take. It’s all a part of the journey my friend. Just keep us posted on what you learn and enjoy the ride along the way.

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I apologize if I came across as close-minded or too strong. And I am not tied to any specific solution (i.e. USB). It is my desire to put a server in a remote location, which I can control. This I understand the technology to accomplish.

Now the question is, how do I get that sound up to my DAC that already exists, in a relatively inexpensive and straight forward manor? I feel that I should be able to do this without shelling out thousands more dollars. I have an Ethernet network available for use. And software isn’t really at question here. So, with that said, again I apologize and let’s move forward.