I’m willing to help one or two people get the parts in the UK. They still charge an outrageous shipping cost here…approx the cost of one xformer.
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I’m looking for the
and understand it will connect internally or externally via an appropriate mate to
Anybody else thinking around this mod? Which mate did you pick (if any)?
The mate choice is purely color preference, there are no pins in the connector, you’ll have to buy them separately (e.g. 350550-1 (tin) or 350537-6 (gold)) You’ll also need a crimping tool, and perhaps an extraction tool 539764-1. The 539764-1 is ridiculously expensive, perhaps you can find the obsolete 318851-1 somewhere. If you don’t make any mistakes or you buy extra parts to experiment with you don’t need the extraction tool. I did two wrong before I got it down.
If you are careful you can probably also solder the crimp, tho that’s not really necessary.
Like always, it’s worth reading at least the datasheets before delving in. DigiKey (and other distributers) have links to the datasheets on the details page for the parts.
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Thanks Ted. This gives me more confidence. And I shouldn’t be surprised given the engineering principles you used designing the DS. Tell me, though, was there a Jensen that will work as a similar desolder / solder drop in like the XS4400 - that you selected like the XS4400 as a design alternate?
The Jensen transformers of the correct electrical type aren’t physically similar. Space and mounting would probably be a problem. They also would let even more ultrasonic noise thru. Technically better transformers will filter the highs less.
See the “600 Ohm to 600 Ohm repeat coil Transformer” section of
and
in particular.
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Maybe this one? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/eptronics-inc/LD25W-12/11616058
I think it meets the requirement by being 12V and 2.08A. It looks like they go up with A, but think I read > 1A.
I’m not going to critique everyone’s ideas, but no, this is a bad choice. It’s designed primarily as a constant current source (it’s optimized to regulate current, not voltage.) It almost certainly has a switching regulator inside which is noisy, and since noise doesn’t matter with LEDs, it probably doesn’t do much filtering…
Don’t bother going thru the trouble of changing supplies unless the supply is quiet, electrically isolated or powered with the DS’s supply. Quiet supplies are almost always linear regulator based, not switching regulator based. Expect to spend some money.
Please don’t do things like this with the DS unless you really know what you are doing. As simple as these mods appear, they have the potential to 1) turn your DS into a door stop, 2) sound much worse than stock. If you have to ask anyone questions to choose any part, or do any work, don’t mod your DS. If you haven’t read the datasheet, don’t mod your DS. If you don’t understand everything in the datasheet, don’t mod your DS. If you can’t make informed decisions by comparing datasheets, don’t mod your DS.
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Great advice, Ted.
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I may be stupid, but I’m asking the questions that everybody wants the answers to. I have a buddy who is very good to help with the EE and solder stuff (he made my phono tube amp himself), but he doesn’t know the best parts.
No one said anything about people being stupid. Please don’t take what I said that way.
It’s cool to ask questions, but I’m not going to try to impart the equivalent of years of hard study over the internet in a series of posts.
Truly, If you can’t pick the right parts for your mod and articulate why they are the right parts you aren’t ready to do the mod. Understanding datasheets is a basic skill for this kind of thing.
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I like reading your posts, am extremely grateful for your efforts, love and respect your work, but absolutely wasn’t putting the question out there for you to directly answer. Community effort for nerds, etc.
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To summarize it, I understood, the transformer switch out and in is an easy thing if you know someone who knows how to do the EE mechanical work
The analog linear power supply thing could be easy for dummies (like me) if someone trustworthy would a) name a type that fits and b) the way to connect it to everything including the power on switch and c) you then again know someone with the EE mechanical skill to do the mods. I personally wouldn’t do anything without a), b) and c).
I think we understood that Ted doesn’t want to deliver a) and b) and that should be respected.
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You kind of have to ask yourself something like… “Is this $25 supply I propose going to better than the one in the DSD where just the DSD’s toroidal transformer is likely worth 10x that much?”
There are some baselines like this that you can use to compare before you get into the details.
Which one you going with vee? I’m clearly and admitedly clueless. Might have come to the wrong place. I have a Teddy Pardo for my Matrix and a P12, but haven’t jumped on the Farad bandwagon yet.
I have a 12v Farad coming for this.
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I’d be interested in more details, but I’m a full-time student with a full-time job and have homework to do on weekends. Cheers!
Ted, is there a particular flavor/brand/model of wire you’d recommend?
They charge the cost of a transformer to ship it to the next state!
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It doesn’t matter a lot in this situation. The analog card draws fairly constant current, so a large gauge wire isn’t needed. The quality of the connections on the ends probably matters more than the metallurgy or insulation. You might consider gold plated connector pins for a more durable connection.
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Got it, thank you. The gold pins are backordered so I’ll use the tin ones until they’re back in stock.