Modding the DirectStream DAC MKI

Possibly a daft question, but hey :slight_smile:

The sheets are non adhesive, what y’all use to stick it dowm?
Do you stick it down?

I used 3M material. It already had adhesive backing and absorption and shielding across same frequency range as still points cloth. Still points cloth might be purchased at a better price. Jazznut descriptions of sound is very similar to the results I am getting. I redid my DSP room Correction filters last night after some corner bass trap installation got installed. All my additional DC cables and DS mods are in 200 hour range. And transformers mod is months old. The net results are nothing less than startling in my system. The bass definition and overall slam combined highs and mids and 3D imaging is clearly the best and most engaging i have heard on any systems I have heard now. I am elated my system is reaching this point in my home time to forget about equipment and get back to music enjoyment. These modifications are clearly step functions and combined with addressing acoustic room issues and good power, digital can be great with Ted’s solutions.

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Yes I made a hole into the bridge faceplate.

And correct, I forgot so far to wrap a bit around the DC cable…have to do it.

If I need starquad I’m not sure…my modder did this cable…maybe Ted can tell if starquad is important?

I used double sided tape at a few points. But there’s also adhesive ERS, I just didn’t get it.

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Star quad cable - Wikipedia

Important? When you are doing a mod it can’t hurt (capacitance doesn’t matter there.) It tends to keep the power cable from radiating better than a twisted pair. Compared to everything else it’s not expensive. Would you notice it by itself? Maybe not, but it’s cost effective and combining it with other simple things will probably add up to a noticeable difference.

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Thanks! So I understood, I’d need two star quad cables for this connection instead of the two twisted pairs.

I used one Ghent Gotham from my LPS through the block off plate. Drilled to 3/8 inch. I eliminated loss off pass through connector crimping and soldering the board connector after through the block off plate. It is shielded 5 times-in cable and once more with Ghent’s added JSG360 final wired shield. You can here it quiet the noise floor. There are 5 in my streaming system. It is phenomenal the sound improvement if you swap any one of them with basic twisted pair DC cable.

If you’re not using them your leaving performance on the table to be had.

https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc-gac4.html

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Here is the power supply I’m going to use. Highly regulated with mosfets and a R-Core transformer. 7 amps @ 12V.

I built a circuit that if the external power supply is ether turned off or not hooked up the DS will use it’s internal power supply. If turned on and connected the external 12V will activate when the DS power switch is turned on. So it can be used ether way and will be no issues with powering on the DS.

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I am powering my streamer with one of those. I tried it on my nighthawk router and sounded best on streamer. Mine has no internal fuse so i plug into P20 for safety. Not sure why they build them without a fuse. The plus side no audiophile fuse needed. They are really nice sounding but used a HDPLEX300 with better regulation for the DS.

There is a fuse behind the door just below the AC power. Can’t get much better regulation then this however it’s not adjustable and only 1 rail.

Thanks. I guess I had not noticed that. I will have to pop it open and see what Size and try an after market one.

Thanks for the hint!
So you ordered the pre cable without connectors and used it internally, soldered them to the board connector and a plug towards the external PSU?

Well I ordered wrong cable connector and slowly dissected the wrong one with exacto knife and forceps. Then desoldered. Ghent sent me his silver solder and i both crimped and solder the Analog board connector pins He is very customer service oriented and will do free air shipping with four or more cables. I am sure he would leave one end off and terminate the other for your Farad. @Somppsa lies Ghent Gotham better than the custom Farad after they were broke in for his matrix. He motivated me to try them. He was spot on.

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My DS has a pigtail power cord for DC now. Just made strain relief so one can’t yank iit off the analog board. Less connections fewer loses or RF effects.

I first thought about desoldering the Farad level 2 cable and directly connect it to the analog board, but then decided to use a separate internal cable and connect them at the faceplate. So I think I will stick with using the Level 2 externally and maybe then a star quad internally. If this means, I’d have to buy a configured Ghent and desolder it, I’m not sure I go that mile for this.

I do such things as a continuous cable from cartridge to phono amp for the phono signal, but I’m no believer yet, that this matters similarly for a DC connection. Do you really think this matters and is not only blind perfectionism?

Perhaps not. But the more complex a design is the more chances for error. I have spent much time trouble shooting wiring connection and continuity issues in aircraft systems as well as measuring and sorting out RF losses. It really matters in sophisticated avionics systems. So it made sense to keep it simple. The more time in audio doing tweaks. It seems everything matters once your system is capable of discernment of them with your ears.

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Yeah, I think the Ghent seems a valid and cheaper alternative to the Farad level 1 and 2 cable, but I think I’ll stay with it (will try the silver one, too, just by interest). Inside I think a decent star quad cable (instead of the twisted pair), available for custom soldering will do it then for me in case the Ghent is just available configured…not sure yet where to look, but I will see :wink:

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I found this. Seems to give all answers needed for planning the internal star quad wiring:

@jkrichards, if you could provide the circuit diagram and parts list I’d appreciate it. Some pics would be great, too! :grin:

Ted, do you see a noticable disadvantage (in shielding or airborne sound impact) from a custom, slotted aluminum cover for the DS?