New amppads for my BHK 300s


#1

I like to place my poweramps on nonresonant pads which get spiked to the poured-concrete floor. The amps then sit on Herbies-brand Tenderfoot vibration-absorbing feet. (The slightly reddish pads I’m currently using are shelves I made for an equipment rack that is yet to be assembled.)

The most-complex one I ever made is detailed here.
http://www.conradjohnsonowners.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=803&p=4220#p4220

This time, after reading on-and-off for a few years about the acoustic benefits of bamboo plywood over, say, MDF or other woods, I bought a 4X8’X3/4" sheet locally for $190. I ‘designed’ the pads, drew a cutting map, retrieved the ply, and helped cut the 10 pieces. My wood-craftsman/goodbuddy did ALL the fine cutting work; I helped him screw and glue them together. We made two 3-layer pads and two 2-layer pads, the latter as spares. All are 19" wide by 17" deep. TYVM Phil-G!

I love WATCO-brand Danish staining oils, and after experimenting on a remnant, I decided on Dark Walnut, not because I wanted ‘dark’ wood but because the bamboo has a relatively hard, nonabsorbing surface and it took the Dark to put about any color into the wood. Here are a few pics of one pad with one application of Dark Walnut stain. These were taken outside in the shade of the patio.





All above pics but the one darker one were processed with the same foto-development settings, and this forum software reduces color saturation. That is, the pads are more colorful than these pics indicate.

This one was reLeveled to emphasize the different grain colors.

Probably I’ll stain them again, this time with a reddish-walnut version. We’ll see.

I use THREE inexpensive ($7.50 per 4 spikes and inserts) 3/8X2-1/2" spikes from Michael Percy.
http://percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf …bottom of p. 18.

I’ll post more later.


#2

Those are beautiful! My speaker cabinets are made of bamboo, they work well.


#3

TYVM. They’ll be prettier tomorrow! :grinning:


#4

Here’s a pic attempting, without much success, to show the difference between one application of walnut stain on one pad and an additional application of cherry/walnut on the second.

The real difference is not as great as shown in the pic.

Whatever the difference is, all four pads now have the double aplication of stain. They’re still a tad light in overall color, and I expect I’ll add another ‘coat’ of cherry/walnut tomorrow.


#5

Here’s a quick pic to show all four, with one app of Dark Walnut and then one app of Cherry/Dk.Wlnt., the next (this) morning. I think one more app of Dk. Walnut will do it. Good thing this stuff is easy to apply, or I wouldn’t be doing it! … :expressionless:


#6

I have used Watco oils for years (after boiled linseed oil). It is wonderful stuff.


#7

Here’s what I hope is the last pic of the stain-oiling results. This third app is Dark Walnut only, and only to the tops, as the sides are plenty dark enough.

But WOW does this stuff stink! I’ll leave these outside until the spikes arrive, probably Tuesday.


#8

Looks good… :ok_hand::wink:


#9

TYMV. I’m quite pleased with now they look.


#10

Thought to be better than a slab of granite?

mark.


#11

Some prefer wood. Bamboo is wonderfully hard and dense so it strikes me as a good choice for the wood crowd.


#12

If primary goal is to absorb, and I believe it is, then the resonant frequency of the material matters. Granite will ‘ring’ at a much higher frequency than bamboo. If the goal is to add mass, then granite is a better choice than bamboo.

I use granite as the base of my speaker stands, to give them more mass, but I prefer MDF and bamboo for it’s ability to absorb under my components.

Hope this helps


#13

FINISHED! Installed the spike inserts–and of course my goodbuddy Phil did most of the work–and rubbed a heavy coat of ‘Howard Feed-n-Wax Wood Polish & Conditioner’ that I love to use on unsealed wood surfaces. It’s ‘A penetrating feeder and polish…’ containing beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil. It even smells good. :smiley:


Also added a Rythmik F18 sealed SW to the ‘.1’ channel of the video system. This does NOT change the tonal balance, etc., of the multichannel-music system. Another will soon be here to fill the empty space on the right. :grin:


#14

The bases look fantastic! I went with an Ikea butcher block. Slightly smaller footprint, nearly the same as the outer dimensions of the P10 in my case.

Is that really where your subs work out best in the space? Or just setup there to hook up quickly?

If you’re happy do your best to stay that way and ignore the ‘must find the best’ sub location rabbit hole.


#15

TYVM; I’m certainly pleased with them. I also built a pair of two-layer pads as extras. If someone goes stupid and offers me enough money for my complicated, high-materials-cost amppad…
http://www.conradjohnsonowners.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=803
…under the amp centerstack, I’ll sell it and use one of my bamboo extras there.

I don’t know how that sub/those subs will work there; this is the first in that position. My music-system subs are two Rythmik F15HPs on the rear wall, left and right, and are driven in stereo from the L/R-front channels. They sound excellent back there.

And TY; I’m one of the happiest guys I know. :grin:


#16

A thing of beauty!


#17

TYVM.


#18

Oh my…those look incredible! Well done!


#19

TYVM, Darren.