Please, unplug your subwoofer immediately!

If there is something strange going on with your stereo you get the suggestion to unplug your subwoofer from your power regenerator and I’m curiuos about that.
Anyone knows why it’s a good thing to unplug your sub from your regenerator?

Don’t know. I have my two REL T/7is plugged into my P20 and intend to keep it that way. Don’t know if it helps with the sound (my guess is no) but makes it easy to turn the subs on and off with the P20. The subs barely move the load needle on the system and there’s plenty of capacity remaining on the P20.

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I’ve had my SVS subs plugged into my P5 on and off. My problem is that the P5 doesn’t have enough outlets for my source gear and the Subs. So it’s back to the wall outlet. Granted the wall outlets are a separate and dedicated circuit. I don’t really hear any difference with the subs.

Some people will swear by plugging their subs into a regen, but I’m more of a subs to the wall kind of guy myself. I like the idea of having more overhead for the rest of my gear.


While on the topic, Would plugging the subs into the same grounded wall circuit as my P5 help with possible ground loop? I’ve been thinking of making a couple of VH Audio’s DIY power cables to do that, because one of the runs is long and parallel to one speaker cable. My two REL T5’s are currently plugged into ungrounded wall plugs, definitely on another circuit. The do hum a bit when powered. There are currently no dedicated lines in my old house, but we had a few accessible circuits grounded with new plugs.


Edit - grounded with new outlets

Two REL T/9i subs on my P20. No issues. My entire system draws about 275 watts at full scream. (According to the P20 front panel) That amazes me.

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I’m deep into a Friday of listening. 300 monos, pair T/7is, pre and DS at 375W on my P20.


I have a P20 and my powered subwoofer sounds better plugged into it. I used a wall outlet for 2 months, then the P20. The improvement was obvious, unexpected, and so I kept the sub plugged into the P20.
My whole system draws less than 250 watts, no power drain here.

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I guess we all have P20s because of the large number of outlets, not the immense power capability.

…and the low output impedance :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


The P12 & the P15 has the same output impedance as the P20 according to the manual. 0.005 Ohm.
The manual says that they also have the same:
Output Distortion (Resistive Load) <0.5%
Output Distortion (Reactive Load) <0.5%

I use my Stellar P3 with all the following plugged into its regenerated outlets: DS DAC; Luxman L-509x integrated; JL Audio CR-1 crossover and a pair of JL Audio e-110 subs. Never an issue with enough watts supplied in my small 12’ x 14’ dedicated listening room. According to the Lux meters, I rarely break 3 watts max to achieve a SPL of 85+ (avg. max. NOT dynamic peaks) which is as loud as I could ever tolerate. But perhaps the greatest benefit of the single power supply is that I no longer have a 60 Hz ground loop hum coming from my Harbeth SHL5+ speakers. A single power cord into the wall outlet has eliminated the ground potential difference causing the hum. And I did try several comparisons of the subs direct into the wall outlet versus into the P3 regenerated outlets. There was no loss of dynamics or impact transients between the two that I had noted many times in the past when plugging the subs (or power amplifier units) into other power conditioners. In fact, the P3 is providing the best impact, bass and PRAT that I have ever heard in my listening environment. And doing so with a dead quiet background that really allows complex classical orchestral passages to emerge with a clarity and beauty I had not previously experienced with my system. Of couse all this is merely my personal experience - YMMV.


P3 and TrippLite PS-615-HG for me, thank you.

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The online spec for the P20 output impedence says <.005 ohm but for the 12 and 15 it says < .008ohm.

Maybe PS could clarify what the situation is?.

A P20 will emulate a 15A wall outlet at 50% or so load. The PEAK 3600 VA delivery is available as headroom if you run BELOW the continuous VA delivery. As you approach the max continous VA delivery, the VA P20 provides on a 20A circuit tapers to essentially the same as the 15A wall outlet.

Wall = 120V x 15A = 1800 VA
P20 = 120V x 15A x .85= 1530 VA
P20 = 120V x 20A = 2400 VA
P20 = 120V x 20A x .85 = 2040 VA

The 3600 VA PEAK on the P20 with a true 20A feed tapers off the closer it gets to “continuous” max delivery as the wall can’t suppy more than is being used! But still, the P20 is at or more a 15 A wall outlet even at full max load with a 20A feed.

And yes, most systems see maybe 300 watts and 3 A current for a 30% - 35% utilization. My entire system is in that zone pugged into a P20 too at 85 dB SPL average. There is plenty of unrestricted PEAK VA delivery available.

If you program the P20 to DELAY start your equipment, it isolates your $$$ stuff from weird power surges going on/off. I set all my attached devices for 30 seconds start-up delay or more so stuff isn’t trying to reboot when the power is still unstable.

Yes, they should update the web-page so it says the same as the manuals do.

Or they should update the manuals to show the same as the website does :upside_down_face:

I’m curious which is correct as I thought that was one of the draws of the p20.

IMO it would bee MORE than strange if the manuals to all regenerator had errors in them but a “quickly clenched” web-page would have the right info but who knows?!?

The online spec is accurate. Not sure why the manuals differ. Sorry about that.