Post your completed projects

Streets still works -

That timer is awesome! Thanks for sharing the parts list and pictures of the final product. I’m pretty tempted to build myself one…4_gif

Darren Myers said That timer is awesome! Thanks for sharing the parts list and pictures of the final product. I'm pretty tempted to build myself one....

Thanks, I couldn’t convince Paul to put in a tube hour meter for the BHK amps, so this was the solution. The case is a bit of a jury-rig, and the packaging is tight with all the wires, but it fit and is secure once it’s all put together. Getting it there was a bit of a challenge, but it’s running fine.

wglenn said

All the careful planning and execution still cannot stop an idiot from drilling a nice hole in the wrong spot. In wood working I have learned to fix my mistakes. In metal I just live with them. If anyone ever asks, I’ll just tell them it is a resonant tuning vent!

This is the back plate for an amp? How far along are you on this project?

Done. This was my NCore amp… with resonant tuning port…

Streets Still Works said Switch:




Meter data sheet:

Violet wire connected to ground (puts unit in trip mode so it can be reset)

Brown wire connected to ground (displays tenths of hours)

Green wire connected to ground (blanks leading zeroes)

Yellow wire N/C (it’s an output that’s not used)

Blue wire connected to switch, other side of switch goes to ground to reset counter once button is pressed

Red wire connects to all jack center pins (V+)

Black wire connects to all jack outer pins (GND)

Drill hole for meter in case, and I used a Dremel to cut out the holes for the jacks and the pushbutton on both sides of the case. Pushbutton mounted flush so you can’t accidentally reset it. It all assembles via one screw in the back of the case.

The counter powers on when the 12VDC trigger goes active and counts as long as there’s voltage. Once the trigger goes off, the counter stops ad goes blank but records the last known value and continues the count when the voltage is reapplied.

EDIT: I missed one wire, the orange needs to be tied to V+ to count cumulatively and not reset when power is removed.

I really think you could make a single output unit that could be sold. Besides Audio Research does any other tube amps or preamps come with built in timers?

If I was capable of building these, I would consider patenting the design. When I say “I”, what I mean is you. If you could build these and retail them for around $50, you could sell a lot of them. Getting the parts wholesale, I would think it could be done.

Going off the trigger is such a simple, elegant solution.

I really think these would sell great through Music Direct and Audio Advisor.

Many years ago I had some design projects with my gear you can see below as a comparison of old to new design.
You might be surprised how an Accuphase CD Player can look. And you might see, that I borrowed the style of design for the amp from Gryphon. It was quite some work getting all this from the idea to reality with different stages of various workshops for each step.
Long ago and it all changed, but this amp proved “life’s too short for small amps”

Streets Still Works said On a different note, here is a tube hour meter that runs off the DC trigger. This keeps track of the hours on the BHK amp.....
Is it correct that a tube hour meter does the same thing as if you stick a small digital timer adding time slots aside the preamp and hit start/stop every time you do it with the pre? Is it to avoid not hearing a slowly coming loss of quality from the pre?

I ask because so far I thought tube death comes audibly and suddenly. But as I have military grade NOS tubes lasting quite long, I have no experience yet.

jazznut said I ask because so far I thought tube death comes audibly and suddenly.
Unlike incandescent light bulbs, tubes die slowly and quietly - like the proverbial frog in a pot of slowly heated water.

The best way to know if you have an issue is to buy to identical sets of tubes and occasionally swap out the used ones for unused to compare.If the used ones sound soft and unfocused and/or weak in comparison you know they are getting tired.

Ok thanks ELK, so in case an hour meter should help, one had to know the expected hours of certain tubes and they have to die slowly not in a different time range than expected if I’m right. Still seems unsure to rely on to me. But certainly it helps to change tubes a little earlier than their expected life cycle. I’d do it by roughly calculating how many hours I’m listening in average each week. Shouldn’t be much less exact at the end.

As with many things audiophile, we tend to worry and obsess too much. :slight_smile: Small signal tubes are perfectly healthy for thousands of hours. Even power tubes last a long time (The 300B is rated for over 10,000 hours).

If I used an hour meter for signal tubes, I would check them perhaps every 2,000 hours - good two+ years of use for most of us.

After six months of ground loops, bad solder joints, and some bad ideas. My “Dog’s Breakfast” Series 2 Bose EQ is complete. No buzz, and hiss only when you crank the SGCD/Preamp and M700’s to 100 (no music). At normal listening levels, you only hear the music.

DHS who has an EBay service that will modify any Series Bose EQ was the “inspiration” for the mess I created. I took his Audiophile Modifications a few steps further adding a Toroidal Transformer (guess where I got that idea from - and it was a huge improvement in SQ over the crappy 50 year old one that was in there). After the transformer, I added an industrial grade full wave rectifier module followed by three KEMET super low ESR power supply capacitors for the 3 voltages that feed the Bose EQ circuits. All signal capacitors are SoniCraft ordered from their website (see DHS’s eBay Audiophile version). All other Aluminum Electrolytic’s are Made in the U.S.A. Vishay’s from Mouser. All resistors are Vishay 1% metal film 1W - 3W. For the transistor bypass caps, I removed the ceramics and installed WIMA’s. For the final wiring of the audio paths, I chopped up a 1.5m RCA cable and used it to interconnect between the Bose EQ and the Chinese “Black Bear” adapter boards. I replaced the cheap crap with OPA 2134’s, WIMA bypass caps and Vishay Aluminum Electrolytics. Left the “1% metal film” resistors intact cause that’s just too much work with little return. I’ll just assume they are what stated on their eBay website. The PCB quality is actually pretty good considering it’s Chinese.

Ordered some sample OPA627’s and Brown Dog adapters (work great) to try out some op amp “rolling”. No harm when the parts are free.

If ever put this awesome sounding mess into a chassis, I might actually finish designing and getting fabricated a full circuit board. That was my original intent before getting this Series 2 box from eBay and getting into some nasty Rabbit holes.


Oh man that’s awesome! Congrats on getting the build working well :grin:

1 Like

Thanks Schroedster. Looks like Shit but sounds awesome. Thought I’d revive this Thread started by the Guy who designed my Amps. The Bose box breaks the fully balanced chain. The 6dB gain along with the noise immunity that XLR’s offer made a difference. I literally have AudioQuest Red River cable/interconnects on the entire audio chain. This includes the out and in points at the Bose EQ PCB.

Haha maybe I’m just used to seeing projects in various states cause it doesn’t look bad to me at all :stuck_out_tongue:

I’ll have to pester our engineers to start posting some pictures. Many of them have their own personal projects that they work on at home.

1 Like

I’m in the WiFi game now (“Wireless Network Engineer”) but my past life both in Ottawa, Canada in in New Jersey years ago was as a bench tech. I used to SMT prototype A LOT. This includes hand placing/soldering 0402, 0603, 0805 (easy), and 1216 (easy peasy) SMT components. Honestly, I HATE soldering and farting with through hole components (but you don’t need a microscope - unlike a lot of SMT work).

Using PCB Artist I’ve already schematic captured the “Dog’s Breakfast” into all SMT (except the SoniCaps, and all the other throughole capacitors) which I’ll relocate onto the new PCB (way way into the future $$$$).

If you look at my seldom used Twitter account, my tagline is “WiFi pays for my HiFi”

Since graduating Community College so so many years ago, I’ve been stuck in the world of RF production and engineering. But the last several years got me into WiFi Network Engineering (on the RF side of course) cause I needed the money…no joke.

I always wanted to work in audio professionally as an Eng.Tech and years ago while unemployed in Canada (Eh!), I’d applied to Sonos, Bose, Apple, and so many other name brand (consumer ugh!) firms, but nothing. So the last year or so in order to keep up my rusty chops, I’ve been doing a lot of “little” audio projects at home. No Oscilliscope/Spectrum Analyzer/VNA, and no Variac. Not the correct way to do things and I’ve let the smoke out of a few components. Just a two DMM’s (and old Fluke and new Agilent that I won at a Keysight event) and very little common sense. :joy:

Thanks for the compliment !



Sounds like you’re pretty darn well versed when it comes to soldering and doing board layout!

Maybe you’ll have to make your way out to Colorado someday :wink: Not only are we here, but there’s also Boulder Amplifiers, Avalon, Ayre, YG Acoustic, and Grand Prix Audio to name the big ones. Somehow Colorado turned into a haven for hifi :grin:

I’ve learned SMT prototyping the hard way (solder paste applied manually works awesome but you need to electronically clean so that any solder balls lift out to the top of the tank). I was happy the other day when I soldered qty. 4 8pin SOIC opamps by hand with my trusty Metcal fine tip iron (I hate the big Wellar’s). No solder shorts, on straight, and no microscope ! Not bad for almost 50…LOL

I plan to take tour of PS Audio this Summer (maybe earlier) with my Wife who’s never been to Colorado. I notice that about CO. With Rocky Mountain Fest, and all the audio companies out there. I’ll be honest, Paul’s video’s was what turned on on to you Folks early last year. That and I remember the PS Audio ad’s in the Stereo mag’s as a kid growing up Canada.

Well versed but ain’t gettin’ any younger ! Here’s a blast from my past (Nov. 1994). My first Tower Speaker. Just graduated with my Elec. Eng. Tech. degree and built these at home (my Mom was not impressed with the mess in her basement but she like the end result). I didin’t know you have add an L-Pad between the mids and tweet’s.

Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System with Projects by David B. Weems was my Bible for building these (yes, L-Pads are mentioned but I skimmed over that chapter…LOL). Sounded good to me but I’ll admit the mids’ & high’s were peaky. Bass output would have benefited form installing fixed L-Pad’s on the mid’s and high. All 3rd Order Butterworth filters. I really didn’t know WTF I was doing. Borrowed idea’s from Paradigm & PSB. Not these sounded anywhere near as good as a PSB Stratus Gold or Paradigm Reference Studio Speaker of that time. Couldn’t afford either anyway.

I took these photo’s with me up to Ottawa for a job interview for an RF Bench Tech. (my 1st gig - left home ASAP) and got the job because my future Boss was also an Audiophile !


Summer is the perfect time to visit CO! Doesn’t get much nicer around these parts (unless you like to ski, that is)

Looking forward to you and your wife making it out here :grin:

1 Like

I was doing some light back yard cleanup work today and decided to make my outdoor sound setup completely wireless. It supports WiFi 2.4Ghz and Bluetooth aptX HD. The only piece I purchased was the inverter and it’s probably 20 years old and a BT adaptor. Less than $50 all told. Roon endpoint, Spotify and Tidal works a treat and plays ‘the cops are going to be called’ loud

My then girlfriend, and after 5 years soon to be wife, donated the Apple AirPortExpress and a former tenant left the guitar amp. I’ve used it on 120V for a long time but had an old LiFePo 12V (a couple actually) with Anderson connectors for motorcycles in the years past. Light and powerful and tolerate of massive abuse. One 4S2P and one 4S, the latter drove it for 2 hours before I decided it was enough testing.

I think it weighs about 18lbs

I put a back door (hinge and clasp) on it with some damping material. I prefer the bass with the back closed vs. baffle less. I’ve got an old RS passive mic that stores inside too for those adhoc party speaches


Nice work Brett66 but if your WiFi stuff can support 5GHz. use it instead of the dreaded overcrowded 2.4GHz. Now if your neighbours live an acre away from then 2.4GHz is actually better as it will propagate the RF further and you shouldn’t have any interference issues.

“Trust me”. I’m an RF Guy stuck working in IT. I used to be a real RF Guy. Now I’m just a fake one.

1 Like