After a break for the holidays (and finally receiving shipment of the second monoblock), I talked to the contractor again and took a look at the pathing. It looks like I will have to run a 25 foot line to each dedicated line (I decided to go ahead and run two lines). I went ahead and ordered two PS Audio outlets. The lines from the breaker box (which is an old style one from the 1960’s) would run inside the top of a closet, then exit and run along the top of a wall for about 10 feet before dropping to outlet level, and I have a choice of digging out the plaster, or running an external conduit (the first will cost more, though he hasn’t given me an estimate yet).
I have run into one slight hitch; I have looked online for 10/2 M.C. cable, and made a trip to Lowes as well, without finding any. I have found 10/3 and 10/4 M.C., and 12/2. Since metal clad is required due to code for my building, does anyone have any suggestions there? I am guessing that audiophile solutions probably aren’t going to show up in metal clad…
Also curious about any options for upgrading the circuit breaker?
If you run surface mount metal wire mold, you don’t need MC. You pull the wires inside the wire mold. If you do not have spare 20 amp circuit breakers, just buy a couple of new 20 amp circuit breakers for your particular panel if there is enough spaces in the panel. If there is not enough spare spaces, you may have to update your panel.
I don’t have spare 20 amp circuit breakers, but I do have plenty of spaces on the board. If I use surface metal wire mold, is pulling 10/2 romex through there still going to be up to code when it calls for mc? I would presume yes, but how feasible is pulling two lengths of that through, and how large would the metal wire mold have to be?
When you use wiremold, that is your metal conduit, you don’t need MC. You don’t pull Romex, just #10 THHN wires. The wiremold has to be large enough for 5 wires. 2 #10 whites, a #10 red and #10 black, and a #12 green. The electrician should know what size wiremold to get.
I believe V700 series metal wiremold is appropriate.
Anyone in NYC have a good reasonably priced electrician they use for dedicated runs?
Ok. Thanks for the information.
I am in New Jersey just across the Hudson from NYC. I will let you know how it goes.
I’m headed to Home Depot to pick up the wire now, and I have a question. The contractor that is doing this was hesitant about using 10 wire, as he said that technically requires a different type of outlet than the two Power Ports that I have on hand, but I convinced him to go ahead. The question is, what happens if someone were to plug in something meant to be plugged into a 15 amp outlet into this dedicated 20 amp line (since the power ports would allow it to be plugged in)?Would it still only draw power as if it were drawing from a 15 amp line due to the 15 amp termination on the other end? In looking at the break box for my apartment, I notice that all the breakers in there now are actually 20 amp breakers, not 15. I just want to be sure that I’m not creating any hazard by installing this with power ports, if some future person uses them for 15 amp appliances.
receptacles, regardless of what they’re called, don’t create energy. Your components will draw only what they need.
15 amps circuits are usually for lighting as they do not require as much power. 15 amps uses # 14 awg. wires per code. 20 amps circuits are usually for outlets and dedicated circuits for kitchen and bath outlets. # 12 awg. wires required. 30 amps circuits usually for appliances. #10 awg. required. You can run #10 awg. for 20 amps circuit, but not smaller wires like #14 wire because it might get too hot before the circuit breaker trips which is dangerous. #10 is fine. I know it is hard to work with, but it can be done. It’s fine plugging 15amp appliances in a 20 amp circuit. It will still trip if there’s a short.
and 10 awg has better sounding potential over smaller gauges…
Is solid core 10 gauge thhn an option? I’m only finding stranded at both Lowe’s and Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-10-3-Solid-Romex-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-63948422/202316239?MERCH=REC--pipsem--202316374--202316239--N
maybe this is what you want?
Thhn, not Romex
You can run solid or stranded, but solid is easier to connect the outlet to. Stranded tend to fray when you strip the insolation. The trick is don’t strip the insulation all the way off. Leave a little on the tip so it will not fray.
Solid core 10 gauge thhn isn’t available (even for special order) at Lowe’s. It looks like I’m headed home to search online
JPS Labs has audiophile grade 10ga wire for 20 amp runs. It has worked well for my set up. There is defiantly a difference compared to the usual 15 amp outlets even with the pp20. No sparkle in the music. Only the 20 amp line can do that
In this case, I will go with thhn wire and wiremold. Going in wall would require metal clad wire, so JPS wouldn’t be up to code here (high rise apartment), and the cost is pretty prohibitive. Even if it worked, I would end up spending $2000 on the wire for the dedicated lines, one of which is just for the future, and won’t be used yet. The used one goes to a p20, with the Pangaea cord. It did take some looking around to find solid thnn 10 gauge in lengths that were useful (several offers of it around in 500’ lengths).
THHN will be fine. If you tin the ends it wont fray. You can also use solder on or crimp on forks or eyes with stranded wire
When I built my home a friend who owns a high end audio company convinced me to install 6 20 amp circuits for my audio setup, one for each device. All six were three individual 10 ga solid copper wires pulled through six individual greenfield sleeves to six individual outlets. I think the builder charged me over 5k for this.
Unfortunately my new setup is not near those six outlets. I am tempted to buy a hellafat extension cord. Sigh.