Speaker cable conductivity and resistance advice

Hello. I am going to make my own speaker cable. Before I go down the cable rabbit hole and start a cable debate Ill share my thoughts. I believe quality cables can make a difference. However, my budget commands me to be reasonable and stay in my lane.

Question 1. I want a cable that is reasonably flexible. My runs from speaker to amp will be no greater than 12 feet. I was researching 14 AWG 4 conductor cable for bi wiring Klipch speakers, (I know bi wiring could start another debate). This cable will work but the cable is stiffer than I want. Would a 16AWG 4 conductor be an option? Should I be concerned about conductivity and resistance?

Question 2. This will be for different system setup. The run from speaker to amp will be no greater that 8 feet. This is not a bi wire setup. I was considering 14 AWG 2 conductor along with 16 AWG 4 conductor. If I use the 16 AWG 4 conductor can I twist two wires together and make a 13 AWG 2 conductor cable? Would this offer me the same resistance and conductivity as the as the 14 AWG 2 conductor? Except for one gauge size lower.

I’ve been looking at the brands Canare, Monoprice, Mediabridge and Cable Matters.

Any responces will be appreciated.

Look at DH labs bulk speaker cable put nice connectors on them and they will last you a lifetime, silver & copper wire you can get them in the configuration you want.


14 AWG is ~4,110 CMA (circular Mil Area)
16 AWG is ~2580 CMA

Higher total CMA = lower resistance

Just multiply the CMA time the number used for the total CMA of each polarity. The bigger the CMA the lower the DCR for that combination.

The concept of DCR is to make the SPEAKER look like a HIGHER resistive element in the chain so more signal is dropped across the speaker, and not the cable (make it “look” like it has no resistance, and the speaker is ALL of the resistance).

Since speakers are NOT a stable impedance, the best way to prevent the cable from influencing the speakers frequency response that tracks the impedance curve of the speaker, is to essentially remove the cable DCR (keep it really low).

The reactive and coherence parts of the cable properties are more for SIGNAL integrity compared to where the signal is dissipated (in the cable or the load). The speaker cable L and C change WHEN information is moved with respect to time as they store and release energy out of phase with the resistive component of the R, L and C network and L and C are also out of phase with each other.

What are you doing that the cable need to be so flexible for? It just sits there once installed.

Consider 1313A as a good quality basic speaker cable. As cheap as zip cord or simple two wires stranded cable is, remove the resistive issue all together with a low DCR cable. The L and C values are also reasonably low. It is pretty flexible as it is a STRANDED two wire design with an outer jacket using OFHC copper.

You won’t get super good current coherence until you use more elaborate designs that us MANY more smaller ends of insulated wire.

Galen Gareis

With respect. That is a very detailed explanation. Somewhat above my pay grade. Can you dummy it down and reconsider my two questions?

Thank you.

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It is likely best to use 1313A since ganging cables together will increase capacitance a lot, and you really don’t want to do that. The R, L and C of 1313A is very well balanced for a two wire 10 AWG speaker cable. And, the price is such that there isn’t really a reason to not get the better cable for a few feet.

If 1313A isn’t flexible enough…I really have to ask WHAT you are doing with your speakers.

If you don’t understand my explanation before this post, you don’t know enough to “make” your cables. Sure, they will move electricity but they won’t balance R, L and C correctly. Get a nice cable already made for you.

Galen Gareis

Okay I understand. I didn’t want a stiff Cable because I must move my speakers (LS50) out away from the wall to the spots that I have determined offers the ideal imaging. For practical reasons I must constantly move the speakers every time I wand to listen. The 14/4 cable is stiff. That’s why I was asking if a 16/4 cable would be a good option. These would be bi wired. I do feel very competent in my ability to make the cables. It’s the science that I have a learning curve on as am new to all this. I do appreciate your dialog.

Don’t know what you consider to be reasonable but you put together a pair cables from the Dueland 12 gauge cable from Parts Connexion for less than $200 for an 8 foot pair. It is very flexible and sounds great.

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1313A or the Mogami equivalent stranded 10 AWG is not stiff, and will work fine. By “making” I assume you mean adding the connectors. I would not gang cables together until you KNOW what you are “making” and how that impacts your amp speaker connection. L and C can cause real problems not managed.

Take a look at the design concepts and philosophy of Analysis Plus with regards to size of cabling. They essentially take a different approach and wind smaller strands around a core. Not sure if you can pull this design concept off in a DIY build but I thought the concept would address your concerns for flexibility. I have their Big Silver Oval speaker cables. Love them.

To be clear, when I say “make” the cables I mean purchase quality cable, banana plugs, shrink tape, tekflex and cable pants. I like to tinker so this is a rather straight forward approach and should yield fairly good results for now.