Give it up. People are allowed their own opinion. People often disagree, without, being wrong.
Hmm . . . I doubt the software acts randomly. Iâll have to pay more attention to how it works.
Edit: After a good deal of experimentation I find the forum software works as I described and does so consistently. At least for me.
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Who are you?!
And I never said that. What started the whole thing is that he never said that he heard both stacks of gear in the same system. The way he wrote it, it sounded like he was referring to two totally different systems, which if that WERE the case, you wouldnât be able to have a valid opinion as there would be too many variables at the point.
1200 amps are expensive. These are one of the competitors over here, using nCore 1200. Not far short of $3,000. https://www.nordacoustics.co.uk/nc1200.
The problem is that with Stellar prices the total is running into stiff competition from integrateds, two of this yearâs EISA winners being the NAD M10 and Hegel 390. The former is an NCore integrated with the fantastic BluOs system and the latter is a classy A/B brute. You are also running into the lower end of Devialet, the incredible 140 Expert Pro CI at $6,500 that has a very good phono stage (a stellar review in Stereophile this month) and the slightly more expensive Expert 220. They have state of the art streamer and all these products are Roon Ready.
Iâve just changed from a 0.4mV Koetsu Urushi to a 2.4mV SoundSmith Zephyr MkIII (branded by Origin Live). SS have come a long way with aluminium alloys compared to boron in the Urushi and Iâm well impressed. It also makes life a lot easier for the phono amplifier. Origin Live use this $1,500 MI cart on their $30,000 turntable setup and wow the crowds. Iâve occasionally used a Goldring 2500 MI, but this new one is much better.
I disagree with whoever said you must make to a quality point. My view is you must make to a price point with a view to an overall system cost else it all adds up to a lot, and a cheaper phono amp would be a good idea. You only need a $2,500 phono amp if youâve got a $2,000 cart, $2,500 arm etc, youâre looking at $10,000 for the complete phono source. Thatâs serious money.
So you decide whoâs opinion is valid? Who are you?
Gentlemen, please take it to PMs if you want to continue bickering.
Thank you.
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Elk, Iâve had the experience of replying to someone by clicking that postâs grey button, and not having the arrow/icon thing show up in my reply on more than one occasion. I have certainly also clicked the blue Reply button by mistake as well, or simply made a quick reply to the last post and assumed Iâd get in under the wire of any other posts, so I was assuming it would be clear that I was replying to that last post. But of course that doesnât always work, either in timing or in clarity.
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Case in point.
Edit: Interesting - the prior one didnât work, and this one did.
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Weird that it works differently at times.
I will look into this further
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I too often donât get the reply acknowledgment even when definitely pressed the correct reply button
Just FWIW all of the email copies of the replies in my case go straight to junk mail so you might have to check there?
Agreed. Though a slight learning curve, very intuitive once you get the hang of it. I still think itâs funny Paul does through email. I did it for a while, but the flow wasnât nearly as good.
I found that when you reply to a post and your reply is immediately after the post you replied to then the âindicatorâ in the upper right does not appear. If there is one or more posts in between your reply and the post you are replying to then you get the âindicatorâ. This strikes me as a glitch in the software, but perhaps it was intentional by the developer.
From my research it appears intentional and part of the softwareâs flat-threading design.
I would prefer the arrow indicator always appear if one has clicked on the Reply of an individual post.