Once your trade-in is processed you will get an email with the shipping instructions including RMA.
I fell off the fence on friday i order the MK 11 MID MARCH ON DEL. just one question about the fuse- what fuse ,size and amp or volt, and where would i buy it from i never had changed the fuse on MK1
so i do not know the size
If it is a SR S is closer to cap. If M-1 M is closer to the cap. But sometimes audio magics directiiionality s not consistent.
The trade ins should have an RMA with them telling you where to ship them. I think most come to us though some go to TMR.
I did not get that email. I have requested Aaron to send it.
If you indicated you were providing a trade-in, you should have received an RMA form with your original order confirmation. It’s easy to miss as it’s well down the page and you’ll likely need to scroll down to see it.
Typically, will it require more – or less – toe-in?
after ~150hrs my Sonus Faber Maxima Amators required toe-in
Mine need Toe out to complete forward facing otherwise too much harshness. But everyone’s system is unique.
I ended up slightly more toed out. I didn’t measure, but if I had to guess I moved between .5 and .75 inches.
With my Sonus faber Olympica Nova III and MK II my sweet spot is more toed out, a little bit less than straight to back wall, never had a so wide soundstage along with a very focused center image.
I don’t want to be contrarian, but I never understood this. And hey - during the great old days of PWD upgrades I sometimes had to switch to a different IC to find the sound I was looking for! So I know things like this can be needed, but I’m wondering (and @tedsmith, if you’re out there I’d love to get your take on this) just what is it that changes after burn in of a new DAC that would result in having to tweak speaker toe in?
I suspect that as people get to know a new component they might find it helpful to revisit older optimizations - of any kind. I know that the bass can firm up during breakin and that the top can open up. Toeing a speaker can shift the balance of the higher frequencies from the tweeters and the lower frequencies from the rest of the drivers. (Higher frequencies beam more.) Personally I set my speakers up 30 degrees to the left and 30 degrees to the right pointed right at my head and never have moved them - I’m not the best one to ask about personal experience with speaker tweaking ![]()