The ground on a P10 is common and is never turned off. The neutral and the hot are turned off whenever the outlet on the P10 is disconnected or turned off.
Ok thanks , but what about the ground on input to output receptacles. . Is the ground isolated as in a ISO transformer. I’m sure what ever is done well tested like all of your products and a good determination was made . Just asking. I am heading to my office now and will check.
And by the way great answer to the ISO transformer question as I new this but chose to shut my mouth closed for once.
Al. D
No, input to output receptacle grounds are tied together. They have to be, legally and safety. You cannot use an isolation transformer for the grounds unless you isolate everything and then, of course,m you still need a hard wired path to a legitimate ground. Without it there’s no safety.
Ok I though so. So it has a common ground. That is in the NEC code book.
As when I do step down transformers. The windings are ISO but the ground is continues through. It’s weird to. If you measure from hot to ground you get no voltage potential.
Paul thanks for taking the time out to explain.
Grounding concerns are sometimes taken as less important than they should be. Using a paste that enhances conduction as well as protects it, is some that I think is wise. Yup, I got a few strange looks from the electrician when telling him exactly what I wanted/expected. I was NOT going for the cheapest way, but the best way, regardless of price. FWIW, I really enjoy the discussions here by people that so familiar with power. It keeps me thinking.
Im sure you do. Its funny that although i have a few electrical contractors i do business with . Im the guy they call for advice on technical issues . So its like going to the dr , did they get good marks or just passed . And beyond that is just how much continued reading do they do. My dr is my age about 56 . Good dr and continues to read all the time. He also circles hime self would good staff and dr,s for referral .
Ok got to go snow tubing with my 7 year old. If i dont post back I’m in the hospital . Lol
A. D
WA Quantum Power and Cable chips (two each) on my electrical panel - one Power one Cable on the top left/right banks of breakers and same in opposite sides on the bottom. Also, I attached two Shakti Stabalizer stones using Quake Hold (wonderful stuff!) facing inward on the outside of the panel door,one above, one below the latch. My incoming power distortion reading on both my P10’s dropped from 1.8-2.5% normal range readings prior to installation, down to 1.0-1.3% afterwards.
A remarkable improvement in sonics occurred after I installed all of the above in/on the breaker panel + visually on my KURO PRO151 60" plasma the picture improved very markedly. It was awesome before, being run off of one of my two P10’s, but now, its strikingly gorgeous.
Sonically, instrumental lines separated with larger dimensional aspects to the image, much more open midrange, tighter bass and extended top end plus the image unfolded like an accordion front to back, with layering that dramatically improved. Further, since the background is very noticeably blacker, the dynamic contrasts and ability to hold together amidst very large dynamic swings has improved immensely to where I perceive very little compression unless I am at massive levels to begin with, which I don’t any longer.
Oh, and another massive improvement is replacing the fuses in your P10’s with Synergistic Research Quantum SR20 fuses and add the WA Quantum fuse chip to each one before inserting. Make sure the fuse is inserted with the lettering direction opposite to current flow with the “20” end of the fuse in the fuse cap so it reads backwards when inserting. These blew my previous reference HiFi Tuning Supreme fuses right out of the water. No contest whatsoever.
I am waiting for all to settle in since I did all this in the past week, before I install and evaluate the new P10 firmware version 37 and M/W setting 6. Once I turn off the P10’s, it takes a solid week for my Shunyata King Corba CX reference P/C’s to settle back down for proper evaluation of M/W updates, etc. so I want to fully evaluate the improvements made recently above before I begin with the M/W firmware as much as I would like to do so right this minute.
Odd
One thing that I forgot to mention is the addition of several snap on ferrite sleeves every ten feet or so on the power cable from the breaker panel to the PS Audio outlet that feeds the P300.
Belts and suspenders IMO. I did try the Puritan 156 upstream, and then downstream of a P15. The P15 is best sans additional devices, at least with the Puritan as a partner.
Thanks for clearing that up @weedeewop. I have been waiting 11+ years to get this important question answered.
I can relax now.
All good/agree, which is why I was “just funnin’” with ya, Mr. Peabody.
Understood Sherman.
Oddly enough, after I added a Schnerzinger Grid Protector to my system, and got it in its correct position my Gryphon Apex started humming. Each of the three bias levels hummed louder than the previous. Someone here suggested a $149 Emotive device.
So wall to it then it to one of two power inlets, the one that serves the Apex, hum gone.
Weird.
And @weedeewop said get these feet and put them under the feet of the PowerZone. That worked swell too.
But switches? Bah.
(I decided to not follow the Schnerzinger rabbit hole as it appears to be bottomless.)
*@nd don’t get me started on external clocks! Shessh!
I’ve added an Isotek V5 Syncro Uni in front of my P20 and like it.
It provides as 16 amp output which feeds the P20 really well, improved dynamics, silent power and provides a ‘bigger’ sound.
Since my P20 is so responsive to higher performance power cables feeding it, it would seem that a non current limiting, high performance conditioner might be helpful.
But as always, only first hand testing will give a worthwhile answer in each case.
A power optimizer is the way, and then you can ditch the P20. I’ve heard that one power optimizer specifically partners well with the Audience Front Row HP PC.
Why would I want to “ditch the P20”? It has been working flawlessly for years, doing exactly what it’s advertised to do.
And after recently gifting a substantial amount of money to my son and his family towards their new house, a PZ is pushed well into the future—if ever. And I’m in no way suffering with my P20.